SO after reading about the air gap on AC compressor i checked mine and it was large so I removed the shim and the gap was almost like new..

Now when i first switch on AC the compressor will click on and off several times especially at any RPM above 1000.

I hooked up hoses and tried it again with wife holding RPM at 1200. The high side would bounce from 100 to 400, compressor would cycle off and then back on in quick secession with high side bouncing back and forth for 10 seconds or if she let off pedal back to idle RPM.. low side was not moving a lot at this point but not bouncing like the high side

any idea what can be causing the pressure issue.. when it stabilizes the pressures are right on for OD temp accoding to charging chart for R-134a.

 

You are seeing the clutch actually turning? Are you using an AC charger that connects to BOTH sides of the system? If you are, make sure both valves are on, turn AC on Max Cold, then let compressor cycle a few times. I've seen it take 5 minutes or better for the pressures to equalize and get a good reading.

 

yes clutch is turning then as the pressure goes above 400 to shuts off and then back on and then off..

Yes using hvac hoses with r-134a adapters.. and yes both handles are closed.. (hvac service background 5 yrs)

I have service cars ac's before and have not seen one with so much pressure fluctuations.

wondering if the filter thing in return line is some what clogged? not sure why the high pressure but it will smooth out in 15 to 20 seconds.

 

Sounds like the orifice tube may be blocked. Do you have a way to recover and vacuum the system down?

 

I wasn't implying that you don't know what you're doing just offering suggestions.

You meant both handles are open right? I replaced my compressor, accumulator dryer and the orifice tube (filter) last summer. The orifice tube had to be the original, there was even several pieces of leaves on it, yes leaves! The system seemed to work alright with it being as full as it was... The OT is only a couple of dollars but you'll have to recharge your system.

What happens if you leave the gauges hooked up, and just let the compressor cycle for 10 minutes?

 

Mine was doing that at the start of summer. Installed a new ac clutch assy, set gap at .030, and alls good

 

no worries.. why accumulator replace? they are just a liquid container for the system to prevent it flooding the compressor?

no the gauges ports/handles are closed during this time.. only time the gauges ports are open is to vacuum out system, or to add freon on the low side.

When the system quite cycling the pressures then started to look more normal. The high side would then drop down to 150ish psi and then start to raise to normal pressure for the temp which was around 85 deg

yes I do have a way to evacuate the system and vacuum pump. Guess i need to watch video on how to remove the strainer in the suction line and give that a try.. if the suction was restricted that would prevent the high side from increasing in pressure it would seem not the other way around?

 

I bought the kit off eBay for $170ish for everything, truck has 350K so I just replaced everything except the condenser.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/120622861252

New AC Compressor & Clutch W/ Complete A/C Repair Kit For Ford Powerstroke 7.3L
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Ok, maybe we're talking about two different handles? On your gauge You use the quick release Fittings to clamp onto the high and low pressure side, and then there's two handles that allow the pressure from the system to reach the gauges. I'm referring to those two handles. They need to be open So you're actually getting the pressure from both sides as it cycles . Hopefully I'm being clear?

Another thought, do you have enough oil in your compressor?

 

I replaced everything but the condenser, and the orifice clogged again after a year. It's not easy to get the condenser completely flushed out. If the problem is a clogged orifice, then its best to replace the condenser too.

I'm not sure about an auto application, but in a building AC, short cycling the can migrate the oil away from the compressor.

 

is there not a filter you can install to catch the material like on home AC system we install a filter on the liquid line to filter the freon after replacing something like a compressor or in a heat pump the reversing valve. seem like
it might be a good idea like show the issues can return.

 

on my set there is no handle to turn on or off the fittings.. they are just screwed on the end of my regular hose fittings but i do know what you are referring to now that you mention it.

I would guess the oil level is fine as there has not been a leak.

once it settles down and pressure get stable it does cool but not all that well, getting something like 20ish degrees over the coil... I have tried to remove gas and add gas and checking the temp pressure chart.

is there a kit that does not include the compressor.. mine seem good,, it pumps and all.. just need accumulator, orings and some oil.

 

At least we're on the same page, LOL
How's this look?


Look at this on eBay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/162640693676

AC Accumulator Kit 1999-2003 F250 F350 F450 F550 V8 7.3L Powerstroke Diesel

 

bingo... that looks like the deal.. how long ago did you do yours. any issues or problems. do they have instruction or is there a video on this process?

looks like a lot of oring to replace.

thanks man

 

The orifice has a screen on it. I'm not sure if there's any media in the accumulator.

 

Last summer, depressurize the system, unbolt, vaseline on new orings, recharge it. Be very careful with the low pressure sensor, which screws in the accumulator. I cracked the sensor, ford has a replacement that requires a new pigtail...this sensor IMO doesn't work with the 7.3L...I've tried 2! My compressor turns on even when the switch in the cab is not on AC or AC max, been trying to find a 7.3 with the original sensor and pigtail that I can salvage. But overall the job is very easy.