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Crank and no start issues (former thread redux)

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Old 08-19-2017, 08:38 PM
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Crank and no start issues (former thread redux)

So I'm having a really hard time keeping up with the other thread and I have a lot of new information so I wanted to start fresh. I'll be sending in the FICM to Ed if the oil caps don't solve the issue. My elm unit came in today and I bought the extended PIDs for it. Not 100% sure what I was doing but this is what I was able to figure out on my own:














Those are before and after data and the codes I have/had.
 
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Old 08-19-2017, 09:06 PM
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Things that have been done so far:

FICM rebuilt by FICMREPAIR.com and has the 100HP tune on it. The truck had it before the rebuild and it ran fine up until the issues that caused me to send it out.

FICM relay has been replaced with a brand new one from FICMREPAIR.com

New injector harness.












Originally Posted by Excurvelle
Pull off the engine fuel filter lid and cycle the key, fuel should flow out of the bowl.
This has been done on the upper bowl only and filled/overflowed with no issues. It was full when cap was removed. I'll be checking the other one tomorrow.


Originally Posted by WatsonR
Did you check FICM output voltage yet? or FICM sync?
I think. I posted the PIDs tonight that I gathered and will get more if needed/possible.


Originally Posted by FICMrepair.com
You've done an absolute ton already. Even though that module absolutely worked fine when it left our shop, we'd be happy to test it back out again for you just to rule it out as a present cause of your issues. These modules can be finicky!
About to be doing this sadly.



Originally Posted by WatsonR
What r the readings for ICPV and IPR?
Have you tried holding the starter just a tad longer?
Are you getting 150 rpm?
Originally Posted by bismic
I'll ask it again for the others ...... are you getting FICM sync?

Also, you need to verify that you have Cam/Crank sync.

The above conditions, along with 150 cranking rpms (for a few seconds, not a fraction of a second), 500 psig ICP, sufficient battery voltage, and sufficient air and fuel and you should be starting (assuming you have good compression).

Does the secondary fuel filter bowl fill fairly rapidly (KOEO)?

Have you tried the bubble test (cranking with a half full fuel bowl w/ the FICM relay removed)?

Are you sure the air filter is allowing proper air flow (filter minder check)?

Getting any significant exhaust smoke on extended cranks?






Things that were mentioned before:

Originally Posted by WatsonR
FICM sync is needed to command it to order fuel. You could have all the right stuff, but if it isn't getting the message that everything else is ready, it won't command fuel. To get FICM sync, you need cam and crank sync first. You should be able to see those on a gauge, don't know if the Edge will read it though, I'm not familiar with its capability. Once it receives cam/crank sync, the FICM sync turns to a yes/1 and fuel is commanded.
Originally Posted by white Buffalo
Here's a link that might help:

https://oregonfuelinjection.com/serv...l-diagnostics/

Scroll down to the 6.0L no start...........

FICM SYNC (needs to say “yes” when cranking)
FICM L power (needs to be above 11.5 volts)
FICM V power (needs to be above 11.5 volts)
FICM M power (needs to be 45 volts or above)
ICP or injection control pressure, needs to match the ICP Desired reading.
IPR or injection pressure regulator (should not reach and maintain 85%
 
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Old 08-20-2017, 12:31 PM
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I'm ordering the OEM oil cap as well and will be installing it ASAP
 
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Old 08-20-2017, 09:52 PM
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This guy had the same issues as me, but never followed up on the thread


http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-0...azy-codes.html
 
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Old 08-21-2017, 07:12 AM
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Should I be looking for a new HPOP?
 
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Old 08-21-2017, 10:56 AM
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05 and up 6.0L have very few oil pump failures BUT the OEM STC can and will fail.


I don't see your IPR reading, did I miss it?
 
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Old 08-21-2017, 12:03 PM
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Will the SCT keep it from starting?
 
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Old 08-21-2017, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Apocalypse
Will the SCT keep it from starting?

Sure will. You need an IPR reading to show oil pressure to the injectors. No or low oil pressure and she won't start. Don't look at the dash gauge either, that thing is useless.
 
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Old 08-21-2017, 04:11 PM
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Billet caps came in today and are shipping back today as well. Ordering the OEM cap as we speak
 
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Old 08-21-2017, 04:34 PM
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I see RPM @135... not enough.
Injector Control Pressure, 1.4v, 2.0v... is enough.
FICM logic at 9.3v is bad.
FICM output at 48v is good.
Injector Control at 43.75% is good.

Looks to be hitting thise numbers for just a second or so. And your not showing sync for crank/cam/FICM. They need to be sync yes/1 before it will command fuel.

Those readings are not easy to read in the setup you have and most are useless. Air/fuel ratios, absolute pressures, all need to be in PSI if there going to be useful.

The ELM device for Torque?
 
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Old 08-21-2017, 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by WatsonR
I see RPM @135... not enough.
Injector Control Pressure, 1.4v, 2.0v... is enough.
FICM logic at 9.3v is bad.
FICM output at 48v is good.
Injector Control at 43.75% is good.

Looks to be hitting thise numbers for just a second or so. And your not showing sync for crank/cam/FICM. They need to be sync yes/1 before it will command fuel.

Those readings are not easy to read in the setup you have and most are useless. Air/fuel ratios, absolute pressures, all need to be in PSI if there going to be useful.

The ELM device for Torque?
Yes, ELM with DashCommand and extended PIDs. I'll swap it to PSI in the morning and try again. What PIDs can I take off from that (long) list to make this easier?
 
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Old 08-22-2017, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by WatsonR
I see RPM @135... not enough.
Injector Control Pressure, 1.4v, 2.0v... is enough.
FICM logic at 9.3v is bad.
FICM output at 48v is good.
Injector Control at 43.75% is good.

Looks to be hitting thise numbers for just a second or so. And your not showing sync for crank/cam/FICM. They need to be sync yes/1 before it will command fuel.

Those readings are not easy to read in the setup you have and most are useless. Air/fuel ratios, absolute pressures, all need to be in PSI if there going to be useful.

The ELM device for Torque?

I think Randy's got it for you right here in red. It's probably not getting sync because it's not cranking fast enough. Is your voltage still dropping that low with new batteries, etc???
 
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Old 08-23-2017, 11:45 AM
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So am I looking at a new starter or what?
 
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Old 08-23-2017, 12:23 PM
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Based on the voltage readings you are showing, you have dead batteries. Good batteries show 12.6 or better volts
 
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Old 08-23-2017, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by xcrsp440
Based on the voltage readings you are showing, you have dead batteries. Good batteries show 12.6 or better volts
Guess I'll go grab some new ones today
 


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