Any ideas on how to modify my 302 aod tv rod to work with a351w? I want to use a 2 bbl carb.

 

Am I missing something why would it not hookup the same way on either motor?
Or did they not use a v2 carb with the ado trany?


Have you looked at Lokar for a cable? They seam to have almost anything to do something like this.


And welcome to FTE
Dave ----

 

As I understand the 351 is approximately 1.5" taller than a 302. Would'nt that throw off the geometry of the linkage? Yes I have called lokar and they told me that I would have to fabricate a bracket for a 2bbl. Am I wrong about the geometry? Any help would be appreciated. I know that if I don't get it right the line pressure won't be correct and my aod will die quickly.

 

Cant say on the 1" thing.
I hear you on the PSI thing too and why you only drive a short time for testing till it is right.


Because the linkage has to be just right to work right and take it you gave it a try and it did not work?
The LoKar cable gives you some "play room" and you just need to maybe make a bracket to hold the cable and maybe something on the carb side.
Do a search as I am sure this has come up before and can get some info on it.
Dave ----

 

I do know the 2bbl 302 throttle linkage will not bolt up and work on a 2bbl 351w. I did a swap and had to rig the throttle cable bracket to make it work.

 

The carb on it now is for a c4 kick Down so I need to find new carb. I really dont want to have to go to a 4 bbl setup. I guess I need to talk to the local trans shop, hopefully someone there has run into this before. I have been searching the internet and haven't yet found an easy solution.

 

Optional AOD introduced in 1981 F100/250 & Bronco 300/302, was not available with any other engine size thru the 1980's.

302/AOD use a cable (1981/82 different than 1983/91), the others use a metal rod.

351W introduced in 1981 F150/350 & Bronco, only A/T it was available with thru 1988 was the C6.

C4: 1980 F100 300 I-6/302 V8; 1981 F100 300 I-6/255 & 302 V8's.

 

Outside the box was the 351W & AOD used in any car and if so cable or rod/linkage?
Dave ----

 

Correct, but the OP doesn't have a car and the car linkage will not work on a truck.

AOD introduced in 1980 LTD/Grand Marquis/Town Car/Thunderbird/Cougar/Mark VI 302/351W

 

My truck is originally a302. Someone swapped in the 351.

 

Thanks Bill.
Would you know why it will not other than the 351/AOD did not come in our trucks?
Maybe it hits the fire wall?


It is looking like the OP will have to go with a LoKar cable and tweak to get it to work.
Dave ----

 

It will fit no issues you just need a carb that is set up for the AOD linkage.

The CV and GM both came with the 351W and the AOD with either the 2150 or VV Carb. The system will transfer over to trucks with no problems at all it is a straight bolt in. Yes it uses a TV rod instead of a cable but thew rod clears the fire wall in the trucks with crap loads of room to spare way more room than in the Panthers with the 351W.

There seems to be a lot mystery surrounding this, there is no mystery it is all done with factory Ford parts and will fit any vehicle that was fitted with the SBF from the factory including the fox bodies.. I personally have done this swap more times than I can count.

 

Thanks for saving me the trouble of typing all that, Matthew.

I currently have an Autolite 4100 with a geometry corrector bracket and the Lokar TV cable and it works great. However, I am thinking about using your idea and transferring the throttle linkage from my original AOD Motorcraft 2150 (1.08) to my Autolite 4100 (1.08) to eliminate the need for a geometry corrector bracket and use the stock Ford TV rod instead for a more factory look.

I know how to adjust the Lokar TV cable, but I have never adjusted the Ford TV rod before. What is your opinion of the Lokar TV cable compared to the Ford TV rod? Is one setup better than the other?

 

I prefer the factory set up personally I know others have had good success with the lokar cable I never liked personally as I have seen them go out of adjustment and they look well cobbled together but that is my opinion.

The Lokar is necessary if using a carb that does not have an AOD retrofit kit.

The factory set up is set it, forget it, and never look at again.

If you use the factory set up do not forget to transfer the over travel accelerator pump from the 2150 to the 4100. As the Accl pump rod connects to the throttle shaft (editied not the TV Rod bracket but throttle shaft) and it has no over travel like the non AOD carbs accelerator pump arm. Failing to do so may result in a blown accel pump diaphragm bent pump rods ect.

Setting the Factory AOD is basically the same as the Lokar kit
Here are the directions for doing so.
http://static.summitracing.com/globa...tci-431000.pdf


Below are pics of 4100 I modified for use on a 351W with the AOD behind.

The throttle shaft of the 2150 was removed and installed in the 4100 also the accelerator over travel pump from the 2150 was installed. Since the 2150 had a different end on the throttle shaft this necessitated the use of the choke assembly off the 2150, it is direct bolt on to the 4100.

The Carb is a 1.12" Venturi 600 CFM 4100 from a mid 60's 352 Primary jetting was fine and secondary needed stepped down 2 sizes if I remember correctly. I was achieving equivalent or better fuel mileage with the 4100 (when I kept my foot out of it) and way more top end power. The intake it was mounted on was an Edelbrock Performer 351W Non EGR.

 

To expand on this a bit the actual throttle bores not the venturi I'm pretty sure that they are all the same size on all 4100 2100 and 2150 carbs 1.08 and above. Not sure about the smaller carbs I think may be all the same but I could be mistaken. So you can swap the Throttle shaft from just about any 2150 that is equipped for the AOD.

Removal of the throttle shaft in the 2150 can be tricky as the screws holding the throttle blades on to the shaft are staked, the 4100 and some 2100's use brass screws that will almost always come out with no issues. The 2150's use smaller diameter steel screws that will almost always shear off. This can be avoided by filing down the staked/ riveted end of the screw till it is near flush with the throttle shaft then they can be removed with no worry's of breaking them off. When reinstalling them they get a shot of Loctite 222 (purple thread locker) it is fuel resistant and good to 300F , if your carb gets above 300F you have bigger things to worry about. But is not permanent if you should ever desire to put the 4100 back to factory.

Also after removing the throttle plates on either the 2150 or the 4100 check to make sure the the throttle plate bolt hole openings are smooth with no burrs before removing the shaft. The last thing you want to do is score up the the throttle shaft bore. If burrs are present dress them with a fine file till smooth.

The other advantage of the swap is the 2150 throttle shaft is a half shaft where the throttle plates bolt down and the 4100 a full diameter shaft with a slot for the throttle plates. The 2150 half throttle shaft presents less obstruction to flow over the throttle plates.
Be sure the throttle plates are centered in the bores and don't hang up on the bore when you bolt them down. It will require the removal of the booster assembly to remove and install the throttle plates.