My 400 tmeyer engine I have about 1100 miles on it, tmeyer kit, crower cam, 2bbl 2150, 192* thermostat, tmeyer balancer and timing set, actually full tmeyer kit. Anyway, runs great, great combo, 85 octane, good manners, non temperamental, starts super good, smooth, quiet, steady vacuum, strong oil pressure, NO BLOWBY, and no leaks I like the engine. 11+ mpg pushing a 6800# truck at 65-70 mph, with cruise set and a c6 and 410 gears. Checked with gps, to verify accuracy. I can live with that, No heating issues either. The only problem so far, it is using oil. I would say somewhere around 1 qt in a 100-150 miles. I changes the plugs at about 900 miles, all fouled. all 8 looked similar.
I am leaning towards the rings, but I wonder about the no blowby and using oil, seems peculiar. Now, if I put 6 quarts of oil in this system (1978 f250 4x4 rear sump) the level seems to barely make it onto the stick. I add another 1 1/2 quarts to see the add marks. This is common on our trucks, with the 4x4 oil pan. I wonder if I let it go down to its happy place (as long as it is not too low) if the oil burning will slow. I notice that when I see it not smoking anymore, I check it and it is about 1 quart from the add mark, but I haven't ran it there long at all, I check regularly and as soon as not on stick anymore, I add until to the add mark. I notice if I idle for a few minutes, then speed the engine then idle for a second or two then speed up it smokes, like the vacuum increase of deceleration causes oil to be introduced into the cylinders.
Now, I measured oil stick tube and oil stick, both seem to correspond with 4x4 400/351m. Anyone have similar experience or a recommendation for improvement, or use oil for a year or so and if still no improvement just tear back down and start over? oil variety to try? Additive?

 

A compression test might get you somewhere but I think a leak-down test would be more specific...
All 8 plugs fouled the same gives me thought to the turkey pan gasket, if used, not seating its best against the bottom of the intake runners. More so if a cloth type intake was used - they can get oil soaked and leak into the runners. Happen to know which one is in play here?

But, if you can, try a leak-down test...or compression test before ripping into her....

 

Who assembled the shortblock and who did the break-in?

 

Ask tmeyer.

 

Agree ask Tim.

Heavy oil consumption can come from loose valve to guide clearance or valve seal issues. Also agree oil leaking (getting sucked) from below around the intake is a possibility.

Are the heavy plug deposits whitish? If so likely burnt oil residue. I had an engine with messed up valves/guides that ran well and used huge amounts of oil with white plug deposit after a long run.

 

What was done to the cylinder heads?? You don't say anything about them.....

 

7 1/2 quarts of oil is too much for a 400 and will cause excessive oil consumption. If it were mine I would put in the recommend 6-6 1/2 and mark that level on the dipstick. Also what oil are you running? Mine doesn't burn a drop with 10w-40 and starts fine in cold weather. Also check or replace your pcv valve. There cheap and easy to do. Good luck.

 

Wait.....you are putting 7 1/2 qts in a 6qt pan?

 

The guides were reamed to 0.015+ valves, new valves installed, new valve seals, I assembled the short block, I did a break in, It is getting 15w-40 oil, and it will burn oil all the way down, It doesn't stop because the oil gets lower. I am leaning towards intake gasket, it is the tin turkey pan. Any way to test that?

 

When the heads were redone, the valves sure felt tight in the guides. I would be surprised if that developed an issue.

 

what kind of rings did you put in? I have seen engines that take up to 3 to 5 thousand miles to fully seat the rings if they were good rings. I agree with the others, call tmeyer.

 

I don't think tmeyer is going to be much help, but I will call him. Rings are epw moly, honed at 280 grit and file fit, machinist says that variety of rings will either seat right away or not seat for thousands of miles. plugs show some whitish color, I am going to keep running it until it either gets worse or better.

 

If it is not simply a windage issue, then i agree to keep running it to check for gradual improvement.

Rings seat best at the beginning - if you have had 7.5qts in from day 1, you hurt this seating process as I fully expect the crank was heavily throwing the oil up into the cylinders. It may never be right - time will tell.

(this of course assuming you assembled and broke-in the engine properly)

 

Well, out of curiosity how do you determine oil capacity when 6 qts isn't even on the stick? and before the rant starts, dipstick is verified as correct part via bill (numbers) as well as proper length tube, as well as 4x4 oil pan, so I definitely either need a longer stick or just add until it is barely at the bottom, where the 6 qts lands with the configuration, The oil level is going to be the same, relative to the crankshaftr and the bottom of the cylinder wall, no matter how many quarts of oil, if the stick dips into the oil, so my pan is likely slightly more capacity, seeing as how at one point something pushed the inside out in a few places, near the bottom, causing for necessary extra oil to maintain proper level. I have had about 4 or 5 351m/400 4x4 78-79 engines that all took 6 qts of oil to reach the BOTTOM of the stick, not even the add mark. My local ford dealer has 2 techs that were there through the era of these trucks, yeah, 40 years ago, and they informed me that the 400 had a oil stick issue that required about 1+ extra quart for most of the 4x4 trucks and bronco. A lot of them were altered to read full at 6.5 qts. I assume the tube was probably cut shorter, but may have installed longer stick as well. Thanks for the advice, I will try to get ahold of tim and see what he recommends.

 

I have had (5) 351m/400's and all ready correctly with 6 qt changes, factory 4x4 pans.

I have never heard of this issue nor experienced it myself.

BTW - who's ranting?