Received my new rear spring pin kit and shackles today for my 1950 F1 and proceeded to try and install my new springs. The lock pins do not seem to want to go in like they are suppose to. I tried them in the shackles and front hangars by their self and they passed through both directions with no problems. When trying to install them with the pins in I can only get them in part way. I got one to go in all except a 1/4 inch of it. I tried one of the old ones that was in good shape and it went right in. Any thoughts? I think maybe the tapered grooves on the new lock pin are not deep enough.

 

If the grooves in the pins are not lined up perfectly, in/out or rotationally, they won't go in all the way. If there is any weight on the pins/springs, the locks won't be able to rotate the pins or push them left/right. Even without weight on them they may not be able to move them.

 

Ross is right. Any weight at all makes it very hard. I installed mine without the axle attached to the springs. I installed the front eye first and then the rear shackle then brought the spring up to the shackle. I installed the locking bolts last after the new spring pins were in place. You may have to use a tapered drift pin to rotate the spring pin into the right position.



From LMC truck catalogue

 

I just have the chassis sitting and no axle attached. I will keep working at it.

 

I feel your pain. When I changed my pins and bushings I totally wrecked the new ones b4 I figured it out, and ended up using the original hanger pins. Just take it slow and they will go. But boy I found it very frustrating, good luck.

 

When I did mine, I had put them on the axle, put a jack under the diff so you could keep weight neutral and have some side by side wiggle room. And a BFH.

 

I couldn't reuse mine Jimmy.

 

If your referring to the hanger pins, yea there a pain. flashlight and channel locks and taping for alignment. I galled them up a bit. but after several tries I got the new ones in. tap in, if get resistance, pop the pin and adjust the spring eye pin, groove needs to line up almost perfect.

 

I remember now . . . if you have trouble getting the pins into the bushing I took a grinder and chamfered the edge slightly. Also lube it well with Kroil or PBlaster, etc. obviously. I didn't try this but you could probably do that with the locking bolt knotch too, just one side in order to make the bolt go in easier.

 

I am in the process of starting this job too. I ordered the parts from Mid-Fifty and they included these sets of directions that I think might be helpful:




Instructions - Mid Fifty F-100 Parts

 

In the mid-fifty instructions, they mention


"...trial fit the shackle pins through the new spring’s end bushings. These bushings can compress when installed and should be sized after installation into the spring. The shackle pins should slide freely without shake in the bushings. "


My pins are VERY tight in the bushings. (Item #9 into Item #10 on above picture)
I was able to pound them through with a rubber mallet, but it definitely shaved off some of the bushing on the way through.


Is this an issue? Does it matter if they are quite tight?
How would you properly resize these yourself?


Thanx,


Kirk

 

The ideal way is to ream them, either with a fixed or adjustable reamer. If they are too tight, grease won't flow around the bushings.

 

I have to admit I don't own a reamer and I've never used one.
Anyone know if this kit would do the job?


7 pc. Adjustable Reamer Set | Grizzly Industrial


Kirk

 

I don't think they're big enough diameter, but I don't have a pin to measure. That's the kind used tho. You can buy them individually, and for the limited use, a Harbor Fright piece would likely be good enough.

 

I got a set of reamers from HF. They did what I needed to ream the bushings in my steering box, and also all the leaf spring/hangers bushings.