So my 04 f350 was running fine good power and everything till I shut it off a couple days ago and now when it is cold it fires right up but when the truck warms up it just cranks and cranks .... only code I throwing is p2285

Key on engine off
Ipr-14.8
Icp-0
Ficm main power-47.8
Ficm logistics power-14.5
Ficm sync is good

Engine running
Ipr-33.5
Ficm main power-48.0
Ficm logistics-12.5
Icp-875

I thought I fixed it before but I was sadly mistaken replaced the icp and IPR

 

That was via scan guage ii

 

I tried to unplug the icp sensor to see if it would fire but no luck ... I need help I live in camper and need to move it prior to may 1 and don't have the money to put it into shop

 

..............

 

Are those numbers at idle after it's warmed up?

Starts after it sits for an hour or two?

 

At a idle after it warms up .... And no it usually takes a long time of not over night I will test again tomorrow I will fire it up drive it around then Wait 2 hours and try again .. oh yah I forgot to mention that I can still drive it no loss of power no lag nothing

 

33.5 IPR if the truck was at full temp says you have a good leak in the HPO system. It should be 21-23%.

ICP in the valve cover? 875 ICP shows it's unplugged as that is the default value. Needs an air test to tell where the leaks at. Probably dummy plugs and stand pipes.

 

Dummy plugs and standpipes got pulled and looked ok I will try to find a way to do a air test without leaving my truck somewhere paying over night fees but if it was a good leak wouldn't I be noticing a huge loss of power ?

 

Randy and Mike are probably two of the best on this forum when it comes to this so let them guide you. Just to answer your question regarding the loss of power, no, you most likely will not feel a loss in power with an air leak as you are describing.

Once the truck gets to temp and the oil is hot, the oil is thinned out causing air leaks to be more prevalent. That could cause your pressure to drop enough to cut off the truck.

Where is your ICP located? Do you know the build date of your truck? Do you know what style HPOP you have?

 

It is 2003.5 and it is the round hpop not the updated one with the stc ..
and the icp is on passenger side valve cover ... And also how will I tell where the leak is coming from when I find a way to to the air test

 

You got the transitional year that has the older style pump, but newer oil rail/ICP location.

Ultimately, the best bet is pull the valve covers. However, you can just remove the oil fill cap on the passenger side and remove either the plug on the driver side like where the oil fill cap would go, or remove the PCV hose. The plug is probably better since there is no PCV housing to interfere with listening for the leaks. This will at least hopefully narrow down to a particular side the air leak might be at.

Also, remove the oil filter and cap to listen for a possible HPO pump issue. If there is any gurgling then you have a bad HPOP.

If you do not hear any leaks with the above then it is possible there is a blown seal at the J-tube that is at the outlet of the HPOP.

Go on YouTube and look up Anthony Youngblood at Super Duty Service. He is on this site as run6.0run. He has a ton of air test videos showing different locations of leaks.

 

I was going to say what Randy also points out, you are too high at hot idle for the IPR, calling for more oil than it should to compensate. You won't necessarily notice a huge loss of power, yet, at those numbers.
Another problem is if you pulled the DP's and SP's those o-rings should have been replaced.
At least you have the ICP easy to get at
Chris also pointed out the oil thins enough that once you shut it down it won't fire. Many times it will STAY running because you are "over the hump" so to speak in that the pump can supply enough pressure as the engine is spinning fast enough, but with an oil leak, starting hot is the issue since the RPM's are not there to overcome the leak.

 

The leak most likely is down stream of the IPR, it's sending the higher commanded oil because of it. Looking at an o-ring to see if it good would normally work, but not for a 4000psi system. Are they the updated versions, the ones with the Teflon ring to keep the o-ring from slipping?
Why they updated them to begin with, they slip down the shaft, kind of roll and allow pressure to get by.

The updated versions have 12mm hex heads, the old versions had 10mm heads... What you got?

 

So the icp has bin replaced so makes me think many pig tail ? But then wouldn't unplugging it remove the no start if that was the icp?........
When I pulled the do and so I examined the o rings no tears cracks and they where in the groove but I will re examin them

 

12mm hex head when I replaced the IPR there was no debris at all but still replaced it for good measure but the sp o-rings the groove had a little flat part that looked like it was to keep the oring in place I will try to find a picture but the rings had no cracks they didn't really look damaged