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The IPR valve is only an actuator that defaults to the nomally open position. This means it exhausts most (or all) of the high pressure oil pump output to the crankcase sump when it's not energized. When the engine is started, it is COMMANDED by the PCM to increase duty cycle (to close), in order to increase ICP as needed. Remember, it is only an ACTUATOR. If a small piece of debris lodges up inside to jam it up, it can/will prevent it from closing, thus creating low ICP numbers.
I'll pull the valve and inspect. It was clean going in, screen was perfect. I don't even have 50 miles on it back together. I doubt it's the valve.
I'm betting the new pump found the stand pipes as the weakest point and now that they are fixed the next weakest point let go. It sealed with air but that was only 100psi. Hit a suspect oring with 2,000+ and... pop.
Pulled
the IPR again. Here's a picture of the screen. There's some very fine stuff caught by the screen but it isn't damaged so I don't think there's anything there to hold it open.
Since I have it out I'm air testing again at 105 psi which is as high as I have available. It appears to hold pressure; no audible leaking. I'm going to let it sit a while and see if it maintains or not.
That's the IPR valve. Did you return your truck to stock programming and try again?
Thanks that's what I meant.
I'm not really willing to test the tune, that requires punching it which I can't do in my driveway. I don't want beat on a sick engine and maybe break down and need a tow to know a stock tune isn't going to build more pressure.
The problem is almost certainly physical. The pump, a seal, or the supply. I'm wondering if there are other possible causes and/or what the common culprits are for any of those when an air test appears to be good.
Listen the the drivers side as well, if you hear it there, same as the passenger side... stop. Pull the pump cover and go after the j-tube o-ring, it's probably chewed up.
One of the other members just did the same thing, leaks on both sides, sounded like stand pipes, was the j-tube and a recently installed Adrenaline pump.
Listen the the drivers side as well, if you hear it there, same as the passenger side... stop. Pull the pump cover and go after the j-tube o-ring, it's probably chewed up.
One of the other members just did the same thing, leaks on both sides, sounded like stand pipes, was the j-tube and a recently installed Adrenaline pump.
I'm doing nipple cups and injector seals on both sides. Did the driver's side last night. Getting at the passenger side tonight. Unfortunately doing this guarantees an air leak until it's back together and running so the pressure can seat the nipple cup seals. I've accepted the fact that I may then still have a leak at the j tube. Hopefully not but we'll see.
One of the other members just did the same thing, leaks on both sides, sounded like stand pipes, was the j-tube and a recently installed Adrenaline pump.
Is there a thread on this?? I was not happy about how the top oring on the j tube seated. It sure felt like it went on too easy. I used the adrenaline orings. Sure hope we don't regret it. In hindsight,, I should've pulled it back off and put an oem one on. The sealant on the rear cover would've been a lil messy,, but I sure wish I would have pulled it right back off after it popped right on.
12-17-2016, 05:36 PM
