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Sorry Scott went back through your build thread and read you were taking off all the rails. I saw some pickups with the rails removed at the Spring Super Nationals but didn’t see it done to a panel. Maybe I’ll see your’s there next year.
Sorry Scott just went back through your build thread and read where you were taking them all off. I saw some F-100s with shaved drip rails at the Spring Super Nationals but have never seen a shaved Panel (in person). Maybe I’ll see yours there one day?
Mine will most likely still be partially done in my garage next year.
My biggest obstacle coming next is trying to get new metal for the rear lower “quarter panels”. Left side I can probably figure out but the right side is **** and full of rust holes. I don’t have the right tools or skill to get multiple curves into sheet metal. I still need to find a place to get 90 degree bends in some pieces.
i just red all 12 pages and think you do awesome work hope my 54 panel comes out as nice as yours . You have some of the same ideas you have. 3 new floor parts in place
i just red all 12 pages and think you do awesome work hope my 54 panel comes out as nice as yours . You have some of the same ideas you have. 3 new floor parts in place
I installed a 4" setback big block firewall and bought a Fatman chassis about 12 years ago..... yes 12 years ago and had to stop working on it but The complete rolling tube with IFS and narrowed 9" rear 4 link is still in great shape. i just decided to start a new thread called 54 f100 panel/rod rebuild.
I installed a 4" setback big block firewall and bought a Fatman chassis about 12 years ago..... yes 12 years ago and had to stop working on it but The complete rolling tube with IFS and narrowed 9" rear 4 link is still in great shape. i just decided to start a new thread called 54 f100 panel/rod rebuild.
I'll look for it, thanks . Look forward to your build..
It’s enjoyable once it’s over especially. Got to use my new harbor freight 30” metal brake and shrinker stretcher from Eastwood. Learning as I go but it’s only metal.
Before I post today’s progress does anyone know if the firewall has to be moved back for a coyote 5.0 install?? Been searching with not a ton of results but from what I’ve found so far it doesn’t seem to have to be moved.
Put in a handful of hours today on the rear door area. Got all the rot removed. Welded the lips where the door hinge mounts are instead of just bending the metal over. Still considering doing that to the entire lip edge top to bottom but not sure I want to weld that much. I did however find out one of their reason (I’m guessing) for having the drip rails. The left edge drops about 1/2” so the door will sit in there and be flush to the body but the right side only has about 1/4” so I’m assuming the door will sit proud of the body so that will need some addressing once I start on the doors.
Before I post today’s progress does anyone know if the firewall has to be moved back for a coyote 5.0 install?? Been searching with not a ton of results but from what I’ve found so far it doesn’t seem to have to be moved.
The Coyote will fit just fine, no modification of the firewall is necessary. In fact, I built a 54 cab with a flat firewall and there was no interference at all with the engine. Ran a stock style aluminum radiator with a rear-mounted electric fan and still had a couple of inches clearance. Here is a pic of the engine in place...it looks tight but that is because the folks at TCI did not place the motor mounts in correctly. After moving them forward 1.5 inches all was good.
10-23-2017, 07:18 PM
