bleeding brakes
#2
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Ardenvoir, Washington
Posts: 3,292
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Something not working.. the link did not come thru...
Here my suggestion for bleeding brakes... (one person operation)..
http://speedbleeder.zoovy.com/
Here my suggestion for bleeding brakes... (one person operation)..
http://speedbleeder.zoovy.com/
#3
Here ya go.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post8534563
Four Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (4WABS) Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU)
NOTE: This procedure only needs to be performed if the 4-wheel anti-lock brake (4WABS) hydraulic control unit (HCU) has been replaced or if air is suspected in the HCU.
This following step only needs to be performed if the 4-wheel anti-lock brake (4WABS) hydraulic control unit (HCU) has been replaced or if air is suspected in the HCU.
Have an assistant pump the brake pedal (BP) (2B222) and then hold firm pressure on the brake pedal.
Loosen the disc brake caliper bleeder screw until a stream of brake fluid comes out. While the assistant maintains pressure on the brake pedal, tighten the disc brake caliper bleeder screw.
Repeat until clear, bubble-free fluid comes out.
Refill the brake master cylinder reservoir as necessary.
Tighten the disc brake caliper bleeder screw. Refer to Specifications.
Stewart
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post8534563
Four Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (4WABS) Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU)
NOTE: This procedure only needs to be performed if the 4-wheel anti-lock brake (4WABS) hydraulic control unit (HCU) has been replaced or if air is suspected in the HCU.
- Clean all dirt from and remove the brake master cylinder filler cap, and fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with the specified brake fluid.
- Connect a clear waste line to the RH rear bleeder screw and the other end in a container partially filled with recommended brake fluid.
- With the RH rear bleeder screw open, cycle the brake pedal until no more air is seen in the waste line.
- Tighten the RH rear bleeder screw, and disconnect the waste line.
- Repeat Steps 2, 3 and 4 for the LH rear bleeder screw, the RH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw, and the LH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw, in that order.
- Connect the scan tool DCL cable adapter into the vehicle data link connector (DLC) under the dash, and follow the scan tool instructions.
- Repeat the system bleed procedure as outlined in Steps 1 through 5.
- NOTE: It is not necessary to do a complete brake system bleed if only the disc brake caliper was disconnected.
Have an assistant pump the brake pedal (BP) (2B222) and then hold firm pressure on the brake pedal.
Loosen the disc brake caliper bleeder screw until a stream of brake fluid comes out. While the assistant maintains pressure on the brake pedal, tighten the disc brake caliper bleeder screw.
Repeat until clear, bubble-free fluid comes out.
Refill the brake master cylinder reservoir as necessary.
Tighten the disc brake caliper bleeder screw. Refer to Specifications.
Stewart
#5
My MOTIVE bleeder has been used 3 times on my truck and a couple times on other trucks. Works awesome.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...with-pics.html
Stewart- Gonna get the truck prepped for the trans install this weekend, ie: mount the cooler and filter and run the braided lines. Then shooting for the next weekend for ZF6 install if the dang thing ever gets through customs! You're always welcome to come by.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...with-pics.html
Stewart- Gonna get the truck prepped for the trans install this weekend, ie: mount the cooler and filter and run the braided lines. Then shooting for the next weekend for ZF6 install if the dang thing ever gets through customs! You're always welcome to come by.
#6
Thanks Andy.
Pete is supposed to come over Friday after work so we can pull his pedestal and replace the O-rings. This weekend I'll be showing my son how to replace his clutch on his 2002 Mustang. He called me at 2:30am the other day, broke down at the stop light off of the freeway.
He was on his way home from work when his clutch just completely gave out. I hooked up my tow strap and pulled him home.
The wife is also having knee surgery again and I need to stick around to take care of her.
Stewart
Pete is supposed to come over Friday after work so we can pull his pedestal and replace the O-rings. This weekend I'll be showing my son how to replace his clutch on his 2002 Mustang. He called me at 2:30am the other day, broke down at the stop light off of the freeway.
He was on his way home from work when his clutch just completely gave out. I hooked up my tow strap and pulled him home.
The wife is also having knee surgery again and I need to stick around to take care of her.
Stewart
#7
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#8
When I did the brakes (replaced all 4 calipers) on my truck, I let gravity bleed them. I used to bleed them like the previous instructions, but have found that if I leave the bleeder open for about five minutes, fluid begins to drip out. I tap the caliper to loosen any air bubbles that may be clinging inside the piston, let it drip for a few more minutes, and call it good. Pedal feels good, and truck stops good. The best part is I don't have to find an assistant to help me
Does anyone else do it this way?
I would think you could replace all the fluid in the system this way, I don't know as "flush" would be the best term though.
What say those that know more better than me? As I said, I'm not too proud to learn.
#10
Not many gravity bleeders left in the world. Seems to be a trick of mechanics past. I was taught that way by an older mechanic many years ago when first starting out but I know very few people my age that have even heard of it. I use it quite often, especially when working alone. Can usually get most of the tools cleaned back up while it is in the process.
#11
My MOTIVE bleeder has been used 3 times on my truck and a couple times on other trucks. Works awesome.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...with-pics.html
Stewart- Gonna get the truck prepped for the trans install this weekend, ie: mount the cooler and filter and run the braided lines. Then shooting for the next weekend for ZF6 install if the dang thing ever gets through customs! You're always welcome to come by.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...with-pics.html
Stewart- Gonna get the truck prepped for the trans install this weekend, ie: mount the cooler and filter and run the braided lines. Then shooting for the next weekend for ZF6 install if the dang thing ever gets through customs! You're always welcome to come by.
#12
I had to change out a autozone remaned caliper and did the gravity bleed thing. It takes longer to do it this way. I had to take the bracket back and after installing new caliper and brake line I removed the bleeder plug and just let drip out while I took it back to store some 10mins away. that works like a charm.
#14
I know its a tried and true method, but never having done it myself (I just have someone press the pedal while I open the bleeder), I gotta ask; how the hell do you know when you've removed all the air? How long do you wait? You have to stand there for 4 hours watching the reservoir?
#15
for me if you are like replacing brake pads when you take the brake line off caliper you can let it hang and drip,, I put a cup to catch fluid, and when you compress the pistons to allow for new pads you are pushing any air but more fluid out for the most part. when you put the caliper back on and hook up brake line remove the bleeder and let it sit for a bit,, a couple mins most of the time works well.. for the most part there is no air in the line when you take line off caliper so the need to bleed is low. make sure there is plenty of new fluid in reservoir as well. If you have not replaced fluid in a while you will be able to see the difference in color.. old fluid is darkish for the most part and new fluid is more clear you can kill two birds with one stone so to speak.. good luck.