Yes, not the original spec pads, but OEM as in licensed/branded as Motorcraft parts and indicated as a higher performance option.

From the Rock Auto site for BRSD-1691:

Pads -- Superduty

Motorcraft Super Duty Pads are engineered specifically for vehicles that are frequently exposed to high-heat and high-wear conditions, such as trailer-towing and fleet delivery vehicles, taxis and shuttles. Each set of pads is designed to provide maximum performance under the toughest braking conditions.



Features & Benefits:

• Patented NRS-MAXX® backing plate increases bonding strength with the friction material to help ensure pads perform under high-heat and stress conditions
• “Ford Blue” powder coating provides a unique finish and excellent durability and corrosion protection
• Slots engineered to help improve heat and water dissipation by providing a path for gases, wear debris and water to escape from between the pad and rotor surface
• Precision pad abutment points reduce pad clatter/rattle and help ensure uniform pad wear
• Chamfers engineered to reduce the possibility of excessive noise during severe braking and initial break-in period
• Pad formulas are designed to deliver increased fade resistance, pad life and reduced rotor wear under severe, high-heat driving conditions
• All recommended hardware is included in the box for quick installation

 

Pete,

Yeah, I’m familiar with what they are. The company I worked for 30 years was the OE supplier of the brake pads on the Superduty trucks and we also supplied all of the Motorcraft available pads. My department (signature below) tested everything that was supplied and I wrote the test reports.

Original equipment means as supplied on the assembly line. Nothing in the Motorcraft line up is the same friction material, steelback or noise insulator as provided on the assembly line. Based on some people’s needs, the “Super Duty” or towing version can be a better choice, but you loose some of the attributes of what is provided at the assembly line. Other types can be indistinguishable for most people, but there is always some compromise I with some of the basic characteristics of the OE, or betterment in one of the characteristics. The same is true with any of the aftermarket products out there.

If both the rear are wearing excessively, you could do a brake-off temp check to see if they have a constant light drag. But both rears doing this typically are one of two things, the drop hose from the frame to the axle or an issue at the master cylinder that doesn’t allow the rear circuit to fully vent after brake apply. Either could be an original fault off the assembly line if the part was out of spec.

Either one would cause a retained pressure in the hydraulic system after a hot run. You would need to open one of the rear caliper bleeders right as you stop and see if there’s pressurized fluid. You may have to check multiple times if it’s occasional issue. The hose issue can only be a replacement.

To diagnose a master cylinder issue you have to confirm the brake is dragging and not open the bleeder so fluid stays pressurized, then back off the two master retaining nuts to see if it’s booster or pedal related. And if not, tap on the master to see if it’s an internal hangup within the master.

ABS faults are rare to cause the condition, and it was with the older systems where the truck was under 3 circuit control, both rears acting as one. With traction / stability control, each rear brake is controlled independently. If there is something wonky in the electronics of the system, turning off the function may show an improvement if it’s electronic in nature.

 

To me,

OE=Oringinal Equipment, i.e. the exact same as was installed at the factory.

OEM=Original Equipment Manufacturer, i.e. manufactured by the Original Equipment Manufacturer or its suppliers.

Aftermarket=Produced by other than the OEM itself and not branded or licensed by them. Could even be produced by one of their suppliers but not under their brand.

 

By that definition, you could buy a lot of my old company parts at just about every auto parts store since the company supplied the assembly line. Made at a different plant using different components and different standards. But hey, it’s OEM.

For the guys that did the engineering and development of the vehicle, the relationship isn’t what your making it out to be. But what do we know. Good luck.

 

I said I used OEM parts i.e. Motorcraft, not OE parts and not aftermarker parts.

 

Just changed mine at 108000 front and rear and the old ones still had 30% left on my 2012 F250 6.7L. I went with the long life SD pads. Diesel brakes usually last a really long time.

 

My 2009 went near forever with hardly any brake wear but it did see less mud that the 2016.

I cleaned all the mud off and replaced the rear pads. In six weeks or so they wore probably 80% on the outside pads and 60% on the inside pads. I then spent a good chunk of the afternoon on the backhoe regrading the driveway a bit so as long as we don't get more insane rain there shouldn't be any mud for a while. I'm pulling the fronts apart shortly for inspection and mud removal.

 

The fronts which were last done in November are probably about 50% worn, and in the same period the rears wore 180%.

 

The Akebono brakes the blue oval used to put on the older SD trucks were the best. The 13+ trucks with the larger rotors use I believe Bendix brakes which seem to be very particular about pad ear clearance and caliper slide cleanliness/lubrication.

The rear pads should easily go 2x as long as the fronts (they did on my 2013) and the fact that you mention the pads are wearing evenly but the outer pad wearing more than the inner pad seems to indicate you either have a caliper slide issue or a pad fitment issue meaning the ears on the pads could be too tight in the spring retainers. There could also be buildup of mud and/or rust under the spring retainers closing the gap between the pad and the retainer, binding it in place enough to drag the rotor.

It could also be one of the flex hoses as mentioned (there are four in the back) but it seems unlikely on a truck that new.

I was having issues with the front brakes getting hot with normal driving in my 13 with 85k. Found rust on the caliper brackets under the spring retainers which was wedging the pads in tightly, so I replaced all four calipers with brackets, pads with hardware, rotors, flex hoses, and fluid. Made sure to take the reman calipers off the brackets and lube the slide pins before installing them. A dab of caliper lube went under the retainers and on the pad ears which got filed first to be sure they fit in nice and loosely. Stops better than new and has no more heat issues.

 

I seem to recall some people having issues with the flexible brake lines for the rear brakes. They cause them to stick. I'd say replace the flex lines.

 

I would look at the stainless steel pieces of metal that the pads slide on / that you are supposed to put a dab of grease on. I would 1st make sure that they are actually there, 2nd I would clean them good. When I do my brakes they usually have some brownish dried grease on them. I just can't see these things being the root of the problem though. Something else is going on.

 

I think I'd call a couple dealers, see if there's any TSBs on this issue. If there is, you can look it up and fix it yourself, or maybe it's a warrantied issue for trucks out to XXX miles and maybe you'll fit that bill.

 

I get about 30k to 35k from a set of rear brake pads and calipers on my 2007. The calipers are usually the fault point, sticking and seizing.

The front calipers are still the factory installed calipers. 140k miles and no issue up front. I have put new pads on the front once at 90k miles, and lube the slide pins about every 30k miles.

My thought is that the salt monster is just harder on the rear brakes.

 

I filed the pad backings for a bit of clearance where they fit in the spring clips so there is less tension on them, and put a bit of suitable caliper grease on them so the pads move more easily. I noticed that the pre-2005 brakes had release springs and I'm pondering getting some and drilling my pads for them as that seems like a better design vs. nothing to help retract the pads when released. Fortunately there is no road salt here in N.E. TX and I'm not near any salt water air either. I haven't done any hoses since there are only 65k on them and the truck, but next time I will along with replacing or rebuilding the calipers.

 

WP, when you solve this you have to post what the issue was. I can't imagine what the problem could be, sounds like you've checked everything and everything seems to be working as designed. Odd (and a PIA) for sure