Chris, I agree with Barry, a 2 inch lift whether its a shackle kit or a spring kit, you should be ok with the new stock replacement Bilstiens. I got the 2 inch shackles on mine and there's rebound. The only thing, its level now but if you put some weight on the back, it slouches a bit. I also get a tad bit of the wagon effect with these shackles. A bit bumpy in the back when hitting small to large bumps.

 

I havent been on in long time.Has someone figured out how to service our unservicable front wheel bearings?

 

See this LINK

Read all the posts. There is a way to grease the bearings without the special adapter.

 

What you will want is what is referred to as a "Lithium complex" grease (these contain a base oil, a fatty acid, dicarboxylic acid and/or a dicarboxylic acid ester, lithium hydroxide and a phosphate/phosphite ester).

High temp resistance and dropping points (close to your brakes with heat soak), water resistance, low viscosity and long life.


You do need to be careful not to mix greases though, as these are "soap" based greases, mixing soaps is a bad thing.

 

I think we are over thinking the grease insertion thing. I did mine tonight since I changed pads again (after bumping into someone today at 5 mph).

All I used was a straight grease gun. The pipe fit snugly enough to allow the grease to get forced in. It didn't have to be a press fit, or oring sealed fit, or funneled or whatever. The area is large enough inside and around the bearing seal that it didn't get forced back out around the pipe, even though it was a relatively loose fit. I spun the hub around a little bit and forced more in until I heard it squirt out a little around the seal. I was surprised at how much grease it took!

 

Since the Mobil Infinitec 152 is not available in smaller quantities, I have been looking for a suitable replacement, and believe I may have found something.

Chevron Delo has an EP grease available, with and without moly, available in various thicknesses. Its NLGI #2 product without moly appears it may be even better for wheel bearing applications than the Mobil product. It is lithium-complex, and is blue in color.

See:
https://www.cbest.chevron.com/genera...PDS7666161.PDF

The good news is that it's available in grease-gun tubes.

I'm going to order some to try.

Pop

 

Have any of you guys tried the schaeffers?

Some of the specs are pretty impressive,

Schaeffer Lubricants | Heavy Duty Moly Grease

 

Anybody have pics of what this looks like on a non abs truck?

 

Great thread, I need to shoot some grease in my hubs as well.

 

Well, didn't get a chance to mention this last week when I had my truck inspected but I told our friend that does our inspections about this procedure and he never heard of it, after explaining it to him, he said he would do it for me since he had the tires off and wouldn't mind taking a few more things off. He said as he was squirting the grease thru the ABS hole, his helper was turning the hub and he(helper) could feel it tightening up with every revelution of the hub. He was quite impressed with the outcome and wanted me to keep him posted how everything works out afterwards. It did take alot of grease. Thanks to SpringerPop and Cookie Scott and anybody else involved for this nice idea to get grease in those non-servicable hubs, working great so far and makes me fell better knowing their greased. Can't rep you Pop, rep police again but I,m good for it..

 

I wouldn't use moly-filled grease for wheel bearing applications.

There are two additional greases in that Delo product line, one with three percent moly, the other with five. I specifically did not mention them as possibilities for use in the hub bearings.

For comparison, which of the greases listed in your link would you consider using? They appear to be aluminum complex or clay-based, and though compatible, I'm a bit loath to mix thickener types.

I'd like to pull the spec sheet and compare them, but don't want to pull them all!

Pop

 

I have been greasing my front hub bearings since my first failure on the driver's side. After replacing both hub bearings, I pulled the bad one apart to see what was inside. I pumped up the passenger side and put it on the shelf for use later. The grease will make the rotation stiffer; don't over grease as I think it may leak out to the inside of the wheel assembly and possibly contaminate the brake.
I found that the tapered bearings use a race that is machined into the basic hub assembly. This means only the bearing could be replaced and not the race. That would be a big NO NO to replace just the tapered bearings and not the race.
Furthermore, the big nut is very hard to remove, so preloading the inner and outer bearings would be very diffucult.
I replaced both hubs at approx. 100K and started greasing them and have had no issues - got 336K on them and they're just fine.

 

Are you talking about the non-replaceable hub bearings or replaceable needle bearings? Can't you just use Ford moly based bearing grease on both? Subscribing, I'm doing the front end this Saturday.

In regard to the metal lathe mention. My father is a master machinist and runs his own business. If you guys need a bunch of those "removable thing-a-ma-flogger" bases made up, shoot me a schematic and I'll send it to him for a special quote.

 

Here is the drawing that Pop had made up



Originally Posted by Texas Outlaw
What is the OD on the largest diameter, right side of piece? I am thinking a piece of 1/2" material would work perfect.

Also, the angles, those are 45's correct?

Is the 13/64 drill also the tap drill size for the metric zerk fitting?

Is a metric zerk an absolute must? Can it be a standard thread zerk?

Standard dimensioning on the 3 place decimals (+- .002)?

It will work correctly without the o-ring? Just leave that off?
Tex,

Yes, the major dimension is 1/2". I turned it from an old 1/2" bolt.

45 degrees is not necessary, any angle will do, I just wanted the size transitions to be smooth.

Any standard zerk will do the trick, and the through-hole and tap should just match whatever you use. I "think" that 1/4-28 is also a zerk thread, and would work just as well. I had metrics, so that's what I used, that's all.

Standard dimensioning tolerances will be just fine. The sizes are what I measured my old sensor to be. The most important of all of them will be the overall length doesn't exceed the .700" in depth down the hole, and the .398" so it will fit into the hole.

For anyone interested, the sketch that Pop made is below. The only changes I made to his design were that I used a striaght zerk and I deleted the o-ring groove. The only reason I used straight zerks is because I have a ready supply of them. The o-ring groove was deleted simply because I didn't have a carbide insert handy that was the correct size to cut the groove and I didn't want to grind a tool.


If your Dad does make them up count me in for 1 please

 

I'll be in for one if price isn't bad.