anodized trim on my 1978 f250 4x4
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New User
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: grand island, fl
anodized trim on my 1978 f250 4x4
I have all the trim from my truck along with the grill shell. I used cheap oven cleaner (lye) to remove the anodizing so I could clean the grill shell up and make it presentable. When I started sanding the grill shell I realized the material has less than desirable coloration. I have been reading about "do it yourself" anodizing and am wondering whats the best way to go. My trim is the narrow trim and it stops at the side marker lights front and back. I am planning on tapping out a few dings and then trying to refinish.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 811
Likes: 4
Are you sure the oven cleaner took off ALL OF THE ANONDIZING? I tried that and it didn't work for beans. There are some products that are specifically for removing anodizing that work a lot better.
Once you do your repairs, your options are:
1. Buff the piece and clear over it using clear paint or powdercoat.
2. Re-anondize the piece yourself
3. Pay someone else to re-anondize it
4. Find NOS or pieces better than yous.
I repaired the headlight buckets on my 67 Fairlane. I was going to re-anodize them myself, then priced out having a professional do it. It was $50. I couldn't have set it up myself for that. I had several other pieces of trim that I repaired and clear over. It came out pretty good.
Once you do your repairs, your options are:
1. Buff the piece and clear over it using clear paint or powdercoat.
2. Re-anondize the piece yourself
3. Pay someone else to re-anondize it
4. Find NOS or pieces better than yous.
I repaired the headlight buckets on my 67 Fairlane. I was going to re-anodize them myself, then priced out having a professional do it. It was $50. I couldn't have set it up myself for that. I had several other pieces of trim that I repaired and clear over. It came out pretty good.
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New User
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 17
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From: grand island, fl
No, I'm not sure all the anodizing is removed. Thanks, I will research a little more about removing the anodizing with the appropriate products. Thanks for all the help.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2001
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The oven cleaner with the yellow lid will work. It takes many coats and time. After that you still have to do a large amount of sanding. You can also sand right through a section without all the annodizing being removed. Start with 400 then 800 then 1000. Then polish that small section with a metal polish or wadding. Polish with great pressure and do it a or 4 times. You then will get an idea what it will look like when completed.
Any piece that will be anodized again needs to be polished perfectly first. Keep trying, it will get there. It took me about 12 hours over two days to strip, sand and polish my grille shell.
Any piece that will be anodized again needs to be polished perfectly first. Keep trying, it will get there. It took me about 12 hours over two days to strip, sand and polish my grille shell.
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New User
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: grand island, fl
I expected to put a sweat into it, I have never shyed away from work when I want something. I have a few small dimples at the corners of the grille shell, I will tap them out carefully and try sanding a spot. Is it better to wet sand or dry sand the aluminum.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 811
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If this is your first time, you might want to buy one fo the books out there on repairing and polishing bright metal work. Depending on the material, the thickness, the damage, you may even start out using a file.
The way I try to do is is to always start out with the least intrusive method first. For example, I might try a polishing compound first, if that doesn't seem to be working, I would go to a coarser polish, then to a fine sand paper.
You can find the tools at Harbor freight (Hammers, mini anvil, etc.) for pennies compared to Eastwood or some of the other companies out there. I would however recommend Eastwood's Anodizing remover. You wont have to go through 10 attempts to get the anodizing off, as you will with the oven spray.
The way I try to do is is to always start out with the least intrusive method first. For example, I might try a polishing compound first, if that doesn't seem to be working, I would go to a coarser polish, then to a fine sand paper.
You can find the tools at Harbor freight (Hammers, mini anvil, etc.) for pennies compared to Eastwood or some of the other companies out there. I would however recommend Eastwood's Anodizing remover. You wont have to go through 10 attempts to get the anodizing off, as you will with the oven spray.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 4,157
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I wet sanded all grits. Do a 3" section along the top horizontal section.
Also, if the shell is off the truck, it might be worth taking it around to a few plating companies that do chrome, alum. polishing, etc. If I had found a place to polish it for $100, I would had them do it.
Also, if the shell is off the truck, it might be worth taking it around to a few plating companies that do chrome, alum. polishing, etc. If I had found a place to polish it for $100, I would had them do it.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 169
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From: Riverside, CA
You can work the dings and dents out until you are happy and then just have the parts anodized again pretty cheap. I have used Aluminart here in our area to anodize motorcycle wheels and other parts and they will do as much as I bring them as long as it is one color for pretty cheap and the parts look better than new. Last bunch of wheels and other little parts were not much more than $50. They do all the prep with a dip and then dip in the color you choose. If you send them a color sample they will match it and redo it free if you are not happy. You can probably find someone local like this.
Alumin-Art Plating Company, Inc. - Anodize
Alumin-Art Plating Company, Inc. - Anodize
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