Well I set out this morning to get rid of the duct tape and finalize my cold air intake once and for all.

So I started with some brand new parts from home depot
List of parts
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Dryer vent for outside of wall with 4" pipe
2 4" male to male pipe connectors
1 4" x 8' semi rigid dryer vent hose
2 4" hose clamps

Grand total $19.56

To start with I took the wall vent and cut the flapper out of it and cut the hood to fit the hole I had already cut in the radiator support bracket.
Then I took and jb welded 1 of the 4" male to male adapters to pipe so I would have a spot to connect my hose.
This is how it looked when done, painted and ready for install.



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Here it is bolted into place in the truck.


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Next I took the other male to male and jb welded it into my air cleaner, once again to give a spot to connect my hose to.

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After that was good and set then it was simply a matter of connecting the hose and clamping it down at the dryer vent just like I did on the air cleaner side.

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Then I cut the notches out in my grill to allow more air to the intake.

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And the final result looks something like this.


Notice in the last pic I am now sporting a fan shroud, pulled the radiator and installed that at the same time, having the radiator out made it much easier to trim some excess metal off it and made it easier to install my dryer vent.
Overall it had been a pretty productive day so far.

 

that looks clean and simple warozz.nice job.
so did you notice any gains in performance or anything vs stock air duct?
im not seeing the notches in the grill.is it just inside or something or?

 

Nice work - clean, cheap and functional. My cold air intake is also made of dryer duct. The turbo air box has a 4" opening which made it easier, but I haven't cut into my rad support, just let it hang down on the drivers side of the rad. I like how you did yours will try to copy when I replace my rad.

 

Changed the sound a LOT! Can't really tell except by sound that it is there at slow speed but on the highway there is noticeable increase in throttle response!
I also noticed I did not have to down shift to maintain my speed going up a hill, cruised right up doing 65.

All I did was widen the existing openings in the grill, compare left and right side and you will see the "notches"

 

What I did was take the radiator support out and made it from one piece into three, tossing away the center 4.5" chunk and just keeping the top and bottom mounting holes. Still keeps my radiator nice and snug this way.

 

cool.that screams fuel economy increase too.i guess i should stop putting off such a simple mod and do this by the sounds of that.
i didn't think the factory was this bad.apparently it is.

 

My original duct taped together redneck version was only on during one 2 tank fill up but what I did notice on it was that I got the same mileage on those 2 tanks as I normally do... except on those tanks was 75 miles of towing my 3500 lb boat
So yea I would say there is mileage to be had there too if I was to keep my big size 13 out of it.

 

What is the word on this type of mod vs. the aftermarket cowl setups they have for sale through hypermax as far as airflow and all of that?

Before I didn't want to fabricate but I have access to a welder now so maybe I should revisit the job. The hypermax kit is almost $100 shipped to your door. But I figured if it flowed better I would just pay for it and get it over with.

 

you can just make that yourself too.
thats what i have planned.

 

I had a similar setup a while back, the aluminum duct fell apart in about a year, and I don't really drive my truck much at all... Ducts are cheap tho.

 

I will make the next setup out of .09 aluminum if this one fails me to fast. Just a lot more work to make it out of heavier material.

 

haha reminds me of the zoodad mod I did on my powerstroke

 

I like the fog lights in the grill too

 

Thx but I need brighter bulbs in those, right now they are not much use

 

No you don't - what you have now is 55W and that's about as much as these lights can handle - I made that mistake once before, I installed 100W bulbs in small lights like yours and ended up half-melting the housings. If you want more useful lights you need better lenses and larger housings, even cheap 2-1/2" x 4" driving lights will do as long as the lenses are glass and clear.