ok so i bought my truck back in october... its a 2000 F350 4x4 drw crew cab... ever since i bought it it hasn't like to start below say 45*F... if its warm or plugged in, it fires up everytime... Im running myself crazy trying to educate myself on this truck... because of of the abbrevations and fancy ***** that makes this thing run... I consider myself very mechanically inclined... I do all of my own work no matter what it is... and i'm determined to figure this thing out.. and know this truck as well as i do my 77 F150... So here is what i think i know... Ive checked the GPR and it tests good I've checked the glowplugs and they checked good once i pulled the drivers side valve cover off and seen that the connector wasn't plugged in all the way... I did the .25 mod and put it all back together... thats in a nut shell... so i believe that the gp system is operating as it should.. however its temperature related and, I ran a scan on the truck as i have a Otc nemisys scanner and it threw quite a few codes, one of which caught my eye and that was bc on here somewhere i was trying to learn about the hpop (still don't know what it stands for... high pressure oil pump?) anywho i found that if it isn't working correctly that it can set off a P1280 which is on my scanner says integrated control panel circuit out of range low.... but ppl on here seem to talk alot about the hpop and level of it and such and I know nothing about it... so if this thing could cause me hard starts in colder weather can someone lead me in some direction.. and whoever replies to this can they try to spell out abbreviations first so i know what ur saying... im still learning..
:-) Im sorry to start one of these cold start/no start threads but I've looked at alot of them and hated to hijack someone elses... so all help is muchly appreciated...

 

Have you checked the oil level in the HPOP? You can see the level through the opening in the top. Takes an allen wrench to open it. Make sure the oil level is between 1/2 to 3/4 inches from the top.

 

Last summer I had a 1280 just as I was setting out on vacation.
Truck ran ok but started sluggishly.
Turned out to be a problem with the wiring going to the ICP sensor.
I don't know if that helps or not, but that is what happened to me.

 

ok.. so i dunno where the hpop is to check the level... and i dunno what icp is or where its at... Lol

 

ok i lied icp is integrated control panel.. i know what it stands for but still dunno where it is or what it really does..

 

I am with you on the abbreviations....
Here is a good link to check out...
Powerstroke Mods and Maintenance
There is a place for Common Acronyms.

The HPOP is top, center, front of your engine. Right under the plastic cover that says "7.3 Power Stroke". There is a plug on top that you can remove with an allen wrench. Check the oil level by looking inside or sticking the allen wrench inside (without dropping it of course )

The ICP is "Injector Control Pressure" sensor. It's located on the forward inside part of your left cylinder head (right behind the alternator) It has a 2 wire connector on it. Your scanner tool may be able to give a volts value for that sensor and/or tell you if it is in range or not.

Hope this helps.

 

HPOP is to the drivers side/front and slightly below the engine cover that say POWER STROKE on it. About 8 by 8 inches square with alot of high pressure lines coming out of it. Brass colored if clean.

 

ICP is injector control pressure
HPOP is high pressure oil pump as you already guessed.

Somewhere on this forum is a picture that shows where all the sensors are on our trucks. Someone will post it soon enough. Everyone here is very helpfull and there are some extremely knowledgeable folks who don't mind helping us newbies learn. Be patient and all will become clear!

Jim

 

I'll try and explain what the HPOP and ICP does, at least as best as I understand it anyway. Here goes:

The High Pressure Oil Pump takes engine oil and pressurizes it to about 500 psi minimum to about 3000 psi max. I think it's basically driven by the engine via some sort of gear or chain drive. The HPOP case has 2 hose fittings with stainless steel oil hoses (1 to each cylinder head). These hoses feed the cylinder heads with high pressure oil that is used by the injectors. The ICP (Injector Control Pressure) tells the computer how much pressure there is at the cylinder head. The computer then sends a signal to the IPR (Injection Pressure Regulator) to increase or decrease the oil pressure to the cylinder heads. This is a constant cycle and the HPOP pressure is constantly fluctuating as the engine runs and drives.

If your scan tool can pull live data, than try and read Injector Control Pressure, ICP Volts and Injector Control Pressure Duty Cycle. Your IC pressure should be around 480-500 psi at idle, the ICP voltage should be around .8 or so and your ICP Duty Cycle should be 10-15% at idle.
(These are the ranges on my truck, I presume that your truck should be similar, unless the HPOP has been modified or changed...)

Hope this helps

 

Lower right hand corner you will see the HPOP and HPOP service plug.

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ok so i checked the hpop level... it checked out good... id say between 3/8" and 1/2" from the top.. I ran a datastream of info on RPM, injector control press volts, vehicle power volts, and injector control pressure, with my scanner and came up with the following:

RPM- lowest value was 0
Highest value was 220


Injector Control Press Volts- lowest value was .21
Highest value was 3.13

Injector Control Pressure- Highest value was 2444.04
Lowest value was 0.00
Average was 1350

Vehicle Power Volts- Lowest value was 9.81
Highest was 11.69

All of these numbers were with the key on and the glow plugs were probably on... this was all done while the truck was cranking as if you were trying to start it... in 27*F weather.

 

thanks guys so much for the quick replies and useful help... haves i posted my results b4 i saw what u posted i can get you the values for when my truck is running too if thats needed but i posted my values while trying to start it bc that is where my issue is... once the truck starts it runs fine and acts normal as i can tell... and as long as I dont leave it sit overnight and let it cool down it'll fire right back up...

I also ran a buzz test on my injectors with my scanner as it was an option and that seems to be mentioned on here somewhat frequently... and it threw me back the following:

P1294 hi side open bank 2
P1293 high side open bank 1
p1278 cylinder#8 high to low side open
p1276 cylinder#6 high to low side open
p1274 cylinder#4 high to low side open
p1272 cylinder#2 high to low side open...

does this mean anything?... LOL!

 

As I remember it, the computer requires a min of 500 psi injection pressure, a min of 10 volts and a minimum cranking speed of 300 rpm in order for it to fire. Your rpm sounds slow and the other two requier the minimums at the same time for the engine to fire. I had the same thing happen several years ago and it turned out to be a starter going bad. It sounded like it was spinning right until I changed it out and I had forgotten how fast the starter was supposed to turn. Just a thought.

Jim

Jim

 

I was thinking the same thing. Seems like your volts are low as well. Are you batteries old? When my batteries wear out, the truck still cranks over nice and quick....just doesn't start. You may be at that point where the batteries are strong enough when it's warm but not strong enough when it's cold. Try connecting to another running vehicle with jumper cables when it's cold and see if your truck fires right up. If so, then you may need to check your batteries.

 

Have you reset your PCM since you did the 50cent mod? (Under Valve Cover Harness UVC) If not, those codes could have been from before you repaired/reseated the plug. I'd try disconnecting the batteries and letting the PCM reset and pull the codes again. I believe the min starting RPM is closer to 100. My issue is with your volts. Those are important, because once you start getting south of 10 volts, the Injector Driver Module (IDM) will not command the injectors to function. So you'll have HPOP pressure, and RPM's, but NO fuel squirting.

Test your batteries independently and see what their at rest voltage is. Fully charged you should see 12.6+ Also would be a good time to check the acid levels, especially if you still have those darn covers over the batteries. One last suggestion is not to just add water, I'd hit the parts store and get actual battery acid to bring the levels back in spec.