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Alrighty, I finally have the D60 rebuilt and painted, will post pics soon. The problem I have now is that I talked to a guy who seems like he knows his stuff really well (owns a 4x4 shop) and he has informed me that when swapping to the D60 in my front end I will gain 2 inches from that alone. I will be re-using the same springs my F250 has. I measeured the distance from the top of the spring perch pad to the axle shaft centerline and came up with about 2.75" for BOTH the D60 and the D50 TTB. So if am using the same springs how will my front end sit 2" higher?!?! This has me worried because I am putting a 3" shackle reversal in the front at the same time and need to know what to do about the rear end, 3" lift like the front, or 5" lift due to the shackle reversal and the "supposed" 2 additional inches from the D60? I also need this info so I know what rear shocks to order too!
Anyone out there done this and seen this mystical 2 inches?!?!
He must be thinking about an F1504x4 SAS. You will get ABOUT 2" on a swap to a 78-79 front. Thats what I got on my 94F150 after I did the swap. You should't gain any height.
78f3504x4, could you measure (or anyone else out there) the distance from the spring perch top to the axleshaft centerline, the 91 D60 I have is 2.75 inches. If the late 70's axle is about 5 inches that would explain it all...
Originally posted by MustangGT221 I think it's from the spring perch on the axle. The TTB doesn't have a spring perch, or much of one that is.
But even if that were the case, the distance from the bottom of the springs (where they mount to the TTB) to the axleshaft centerline is still 2.75 inches, same as the D60. So the mounting location of the springs and the distnace from them to the axleshaft centerline is the same for both axles. Someone on another site mentioned the axle pivot brackets cause additional leverage to be placed on the springs, which would not be the case with the D60, ergo, you gain 2" when you lose the axle pivot bracket leverage. Sounds plausible, but I don't think it would give you 2".
Originally posted by rabidranger Someone on another site mentioned the axle pivot brackets cause additional leverage to be placed on the springs, which would not be the case with the D60, ergo, you gain 2" when you lose the axle pivot bracket leverage. Sounds plausible, but I don't think it would give you 2".
This is correct..... you lose the leverage when you switch to the monobeam D60.
I however don't know how much of a gain there is.... when I put in my D60 I also put in F450 springs.... so I gained 6" over stock anyways.... and did the shackle reversal... and ..... and ......
ok so i didnt want to read like 50 pages of thread. here we go... Im younger and i just got a 1990 f250, i found out it has a dana 44 ttb front axle. i want to lift it and make it into an off road beast. i dont know much about swaping axles around. i wanted to put a dual steering stabilizer on. should i keep my dana 44 ttb or would it be worth it to swap it out for a dana 60. bacicaly i need to know how much work it is to do so, like do i have to cut and weld anything? or does it just bolt up in place? do i have to change any existing stuff like the 4x4 drive shaft? sorry this is so long but like i said im new to swapping parts. please help
wow old thread. If you're doing a TTB 44HD or TTB 50 to 60 swap, you need:
85.5-91 kingpin F350 Dana 60
-or-
92-97 balljoint F350 Dana 60
'85.5-'97 F350 4x4 drag link
'85.5-'97 F350 4x4 tie-rod
'85.5-'97 F350 4x4 track bar and track bar bracket
possibly the F350 4x4 front driveshaft (depending on your lift)
You're pitman arm will work on the F350 drag link, as well as you're brake lines. I believe the F250 springs will be fine on the "new" front end.
i picked up an 89 ford f250 460 i dont know if its the dana 44 or the spicer 50 the gvw is 8800 so i think its the 50 but regardless when i bought it the yolk on the passenger side of the front diff was broke so i need to replace the yolk i found out today thats a total pain in the *** i stopped after i to out the axle shaft and i need to know if i have to drop the diff itself to get this stub shaft out. also if i hae to do all that work i would like to put a solid axle in it so if i grabed one from the boneyard with the drive shaft will my original callipers and tie rods line up
I think it's a c clip holding the stub shaft in, so you do have to pull the carrier to get the pin out. If it's 8800 it's probably extended cab & most likely a 50. 50 would be cast into the carrier. I'm not sure if a 50 uses the c clips, it may be bolted in with a retainer. The steering linkage is different on the 60, better get that at the yard also. Make sure you get the same ratio as your rear axle.
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