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I just wanted to say i had a similiar problem not long ago. Buzzed good. Computer struggled to hit 100#s of oil pressure. Capped off one head and put a fluid filled gauge on the other head. Then did the opposite head. One built pressure and the other one didnt. Pulled my valve cover on that head (thanks to FTE) and seen oil puking out of an injector. Replaced it and good to go. Just something to think about.
I also worked through the
effort to source the tools to do the pressue test
on the high pressure oil pump.
The one side had 3200 #s.
The side that had 85#s was the side
that had the IPC sensor -
That would have changed it's
voltage to send the needed .85 V
to the IDM to fire the injectors
(had the high pressure been there
to make it all work.)
There was no spraying of oil - as in
a geyser that one could see - with the
valve cover off that bank.
So the leakage - must have been being
forced on down in to the drain back galleys
to the oil pan.
Perhaps one or more injectors leaking ... ?
*************************.
I proved that this was so.
And
Called Wes at the Ford Garage.
Wes so said that if this was so
he would cover it under the 2 year
unlimited mileage warranty on the
original replacement engine -
Which had thrown a rod 11 months
since the original install.
Paul has this warranty through
October this year.
**************.
This engine was a new or a Ford Reman.
And
Is the second replacement in 11 months time.
The Ford people took 4 months to install
this second engine between Thanksgiving 08
and February 09.
And Now has almost 4 months use
on this engine - with these kinds of
problems.
*********.
I have determined that:
The CMS sensor that Paul installed was a dud.
The engine wiring harnass was damaged
by the engine installer(s) by poor workmanship
and twisting and poor routing of the harnass
which resulted in heat damage.
And
The Dr side head is leaking it's high pressure
oil back into the engine - without ever making
sufficient pressure for the IDM to fire the injectors.
**************************************.
After Ford corrects that problem ...
And the engine runs again.
If it runs again - without electric component
or circuit complications ...
Then we will be re-evaluating the actual
conditions of the rest of the needed
daily handshake of all other components.
******.
If the transmission selenoids were damaged
by the damage to the engine wiring harnass
...
As the transmission wiring harnass is married
to it ... We will address those kinds of issues.
Some time has to pass now ...
They need the lag time to get the
ambulance into their shop and do
their thing ... ever how far they
are willing to go.
If I am gone for a while ...
I will come back and tell the end of this story.
But I do -
Thank everyone for their offers of forum
- internet help and support here.
Jack,
You did an outstanding job of documenting all of the details. I have a feeling that Ford will try and do a better job this time. Did you happen t mention that there are quite a number of FTE members following this thread?
Hope all works out for you.
Nick
If you mention that you're posting the results of your find then chances are their going to want to do a primo job because they don't want any more of a bad rep then they already have so I would mention it.
Thanks for posting, thanks for the update and the information.
Sounds like our friend Jack Da Bear might have been wasting our time a little bit.
Sorry Jack, but you're last post has disappeared, and will disappear again if you post the same info. In regards to the ads, if you become a supporter of this site there are no ads here.
I had same problem if you dont have enough minimun amps 11 preferably it wont have enough juice to start after glow plugs cycle also mine threw codes of p603,p1670 after i got good batteries ran ae cleared codes ran dtc and no codes truck starts fine now. Also clean terminals with wire brush if needed.
well happy new year every one, so far this new year hasnt quiet started out like i would have like it to, but i currently own a 2000 250psd with 210k miles, trucks been solid for the most part, i have intake , 5 in exhaust, wicked wheel, banks six gun tuner,trans lockup mod, and exhuast brake mod, and just recently purchased a ts performance 6 pos. chip. i put the ts chip on my truck when i first got it, just stuck it in the pcm and went for a test run, no tape or any thing added to hold board inside pcm in correct place. after driving for a bit SES light came on, truck still ran great, then i noticed i got a dead pedal and the (water in fuel) light flashed and so did the (wait to start) light the lights stayed on for a sec or two when they went off the truck went back to pulling and accelerating properly. experimented with the stacking the banks and the ts for maybe five minutes and then figure out that the truck ran better with the banks on stock and ts on 140hp, drove the truck off and on through out the day, did the water in fuel and wait to start light thing several more times, then it seemed like every time i hit a rough spot in the road or a bump the would do it again makes me think the chip had feel out of the pcm,stopped at the gas station to get some fuel and actually removed the banks from the truck,then got back on the road and headed home,then final the truck stallled completely i pulled her over to the side of the road and tried to make sure the chip hadnt fallen out and went to crank it again and no wait to start light, engine turns over but will not run, have no fuses blow, replaced the pcm relay, tried hooking a code reader up to the truck and it will on communicate with vehicle , transfer pump under the drivers seat isnt getting any power to it, batteries fully charged, tried unpluggin the fuel bowl heater still nothing, but it is getting power to the fuel bowl heater plug, so that tells me the pcm, fuel bowl heater fuse isnt blown, please if any one could help me out with this problem i could sure use it, hope every one had a good holiday please reply
blueox, did you play with the chip (check to see if it was loose) with the keys in the ignition? If you unplugged or plugged the chip in with the key in the ignition, you may have fried your PCM.
I am also having problems with my 1999 7.3, had to have it towed in last weekend. I think I have more than one problem. The first check was not getting fuel to the filter and replaced the fuel pump, that working good now. The engine starts but is not running good, has a skip or miss? I had a spare cam sensor and tried that, no codes in the computer, I also changed the IPC. I am thinking now the high pressure oil pump. I have a service book on order, should have it in a few days. Do you have any info on how to check the high pressure oil pump? thanks, Mike