1973 - 1979: Tips And Tricks
New User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Hi all.
i just wanted to start a post on tips and tricks anyone may have .
specifically on 73-79 trucks.
there are probably a lot of people that have something to share.something new 73 - 79 owners might not know.
like rear glass from 73 to 96 fits.
Or that seats from up to a 96 are bolt ins
just want to pick all your brains really
i just wanted to start a post on tips and tricks anyone may have .
specifically on 73-79 trucks.
there are probably a lot of people that have something to share.something new 73 - 79 owners might not know.
like rear glass from 73 to 96 fits.
Or that seats from up to a 96 are bolt ins
just want to pick all your brains really
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 531
Likes: 4
From: LaGrange
Will the rubber seal for a 77 work for glass up to 96 or do you need a specific seal for the year model which you get the glass from? The reason I ask is because I just ordered a weather strip kit for my 77 and it includes the rear window seal. Will this seal work any rear window glass up to 96?
__The rear window glass is interchangeable between years 73’- 96’.
(But, use the truck's original year seal, Not the donor's truck's year.)
Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 159
Likes: 1
When installing an aftermarket stereo, don't run wires over to the fuse box. Use a male spade terminal in the factory radio connector for switched power. The connector for the lighter harness is just to the right, and has open spots for your constant 12v wire.
I plan on using the other side of the radio connector, which comes on with the dash lights, for guage lights. This avoids tapping into wires or the headlight switch.
I plan on using the other side of the radio connector, which comes on with the dash lights, for guage lights. This avoids tapping into wires or the headlight switch.
78-79 wiring has sources built in for both switch power and unswitched power using a bullet style connector, kinda of a 3 place plug
cant recall which is which but one is behind the guage panel and the other is closer to the center of the dash
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
From: Gold Coast Australia
(QUOTE)a spacer of some sort (possibly a quarter or something approximately that size) will sometimes quiet the vent window whistle
apparently the guy that owned my 77 highboy didn't have a quarter. if i remeber correctly it had a nickle, a dime, and a penny on the passenger side
apparently the guy that owned my 77 highboy didn't have a quarter. if i remeber correctly it had a nickle, a dime, and a penny on the passenger side
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,593
Likes: 2
From: Prairieville, La
Place the spacer between the divider bar and the wing window handle. It is applying a little more constant pressure to the wing window.
New User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
the guage cluster from the 79 f150 ranger XLT with just a fuel, temp, and speedometer, is not the same as the one that has the voltage and the oil presure guage, the plug in the back is defferent and the wiring is different colors. I am lost, so if you know something PM me. thanks.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
The Gauge Cluster is different than the Idiot Light Cluster. They are not interchangeable in any of the years without major rewiring or work.
To swap them you would ideally have to replace the main harness under the dash, and change out the altenator harness to match the cluster.
People have rewired their trucks for factory gauges, but there are at least 10 different circut differences, and I do not recommend it. One person here had his ammeter gauge melt because he forgot the shunt required, as example.
Just a heads up here...
To swap them you would ideally have to replace the main harness under the dash, and change out the altenator harness to match the cluster.
People have rewired their trucks for factory gauges, but there are at least 10 different circut differences, and I do not recommend it. One person here had his ammeter gauge melt because he forgot the shunt required, as example.
Just a heads up here...
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 531
Likes: 4
From: LaGrange
What a mess.
Ok,
__people.
This is tips & tricks,
not tips & problem solving thread.
If you got a prob, post a thread.
& please be clear on your header.
Don't use things like "need help",
or "don't know what to do".
Try to get as much info of your Q,
in the header as possible.
Good luck, to you all.
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New User
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Wow - lots to sort through!
A 2wd cab works great on a 4wd frame if you put a body lift under it. That way you get a bit more cab space because the "hump' isn't as tall.
If using a body lift and you want to get the front bumper up to stock height, find an old frame and cut 3 inchs off where the bumper mounts, then weld thos pieces to your frame and you now have stock mounting holes at the correct height.
The 92-96 door mirrors mount up nice if you are doing a body restoration and want to get a "cleaner" look. Just have to fab up a couple brackets to secure them behind the inner door panels.
3/4 inch coloured electrical tubing can look cool wrapped around coil springs.
The old Sidewinder winch's tuck nicely under the front in between the frame rails.
A 2wd cab works great on a 4wd frame if you put a body lift under it. That way you get a bit more cab space because the "hump' isn't as tall.
If using a body lift and you want to get the front bumper up to stock height, find an old frame and cut 3 inchs off where the bumper mounts, then weld thos pieces to your frame and you now have stock mounting holes at the correct height.
The 92-96 door mirrors mount up nice if you are doing a body restoration and want to get a "cleaner" look. Just have to fab up a couple brackets to secure them behind the inner door panels.
3/4 inch coloured electrical tubing can look cool wrapped around coil springs.
The old Sidewinder winch's tuck nicely under the front in between the frame rails.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 134
Likes: 1
From: Nor Cal
There is a great 3D picture of the rear drum brake assembly here:
http://www.jamesglass.org/JGA/2labor...brake_drum.gif
http://www.jamesglass.org/JGA/2labor...brake_drum.gif
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 172
Likes: 0
From: Milton Canada
I had a front shock mount break on my '78 4wd. Couldn't track one down, but while searching the computer with the Ford parts guy, we discoverd that the shock mounts on mid 90s super-duties were the same. Of course, they weren't cross referenced so we discovered it completely by fluke.
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 531
Likes: 4
From: LaGrange
I had a front shock mount break on my '78 4wd. Couldn't track one down, but while searching the computer with the Ford parts guy, we discoverd that the shock mounts on mid 90s super-duties were the same. Of course, they weren't cross referenced so we discovered it completely by fluke.
__
By doing what you discovered by "just a fluke".
You can find out that there is more parts
that still fit, or made to fit by fine tuning.
Most auto manufactoring companys like to keep the
costs down. So by tweaking here, slightly reforming there
some parts can have a long use thru reforming.
Of course they couldn't use the same part no. for too long,
Things would confusing if they used a part no. from 30 years ago
on something that's only 3 years old today. It would get very
difficult to keep the catalog database up to spar for one.
This & I'm sure that they would get an evil-eye from the persons
that want nothing too old on the newer auto's that say, could be
a reason for like. "This part has been used in
these line of so-n-so's for too long, It can't possibly be safe."
Or some irrelevant crap like that. I'm working off the top of
my head here. The point is, with some digging you could possibly
find the part that your looking for. Hidden away in the pages of
the parts catologs. (Just like you did by fluke.) As for myself,
I don't have a person behind the parts counter that is willing
to do this with me.
I now return the thread to you all.
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 432
Likes: 38
anit-sieze on lug nuts
Four-sixty-power had an excellent list, but I must disagree with his recommendation to put anti-sieze on your lug nuts. Lug nut torque values are based on a "dry" connection. There are several "authorities" that support this, here's one from TireRack. Wheel Tech - Wheel Lug Torquing
I've not read all the posts on this topic, so if someone else has made a similar comment please disregard mine.
I've not read all the posts on this topic, so if someone else has made a similar comment please disregard mine.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,760
Likes: 8
From: Gadsden Purchase
threads. No kidding on that. Torque values are always based on oily threads
unless stated otherwise.
I'm the weirdo that stops and helps people that's broke down and I've twisted
off quite a few wheel studs over the years. Leave me out of not greasin'em! ;)
I've never lost any of my own lug nuts (or lug bolts;) or had them loosen up on
me either since I started oiling/greasing them. Look at it this way for a second,
you don't know the real torque and so neither do you know the real "bolt/stud
tension" if the threads aren't oiled.
YMMV? :)
You decide.
Glitzy URL pages or Alvin's bull$%#? ;)
Alvin in AZ
