Still blowing fuses... overdrive button or steering column... not sure
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,028
Likes: 3
From: Broad Run, Va
Still blowing fuses... overdrive button or steering column... not sure
I got in the truck this morning to go to work and all the guages were flat, the accelerator pedal would not work, etc...
The fuse in question is on the bottom row of the fuse panel under the dash and it is the fourth fuse in from the right side. It is a 10 amp mini bus.
This is really starting to trouble me. I tried to get the clamshell off the steering column but it was not easy and I ran out of time and ended up putting it back together w/out fully investigating the issue.
Is there a way to access the overdrive button at the end of the gear shift?
Thanks,
Andy
The fuse in question is on the bottom row of the fuse panel under the dash and it is the fourth fuse in from the right side. It is a 10 amp mini bus.
This is really starting to trouble me. I tried to get the clamshell off the steering column but it was not easy and I ran out of time and ended up putting it back together w/out fully investigating the issue.
Is there a way to access the overdrive button at the end of the gear shift?
Thanks,
Andy
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
The issue is usually in the column. What part of the clamshell were you having trouble with? 3 phillips screws on the bottom, then unscrew the tilt lever and the bottom half comes off. Put the key in the ignition and turn to run, then push the little spring loaded ball up (under the column) and pull the key cylinder out. Then just remove the upper half of the cover. You'll see the wires coming out of the shift lever. Follow the wires and there is a small connector you can unplug (you'll loose the OD off feature) to get you by until you can get this fixed, or replace the lever.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
From: Charlotte, NC
Ok
Mine has done the same thing. Started with the headlights not being on at start-up. I would move the column un and down and the lights would come on. I usually like the column down. Well after that intermintent thing went on for about 6-8 months the truck gauge panel, acc pedal, etc shut off driving down the road and left me in the desert.
Well after some searching I found that 10amp (20/29 or something like that) fuse you describe burnt out. Also when that goes there is no communication with the ecm......I plugged in my tuner to read codes and there was no power.....well I replaced the fuse.
Ok it has happened one more time since but not since I leave the column up. Seems when the headlight thing starts then the rest follow. I suspect the column harness either pulls tight or is getting pinched somewhere up inside but I am to lazy to tear it apart. What you guys think? Anybody esle run into this condition?
Eric
Well after some searching I found that 10amp (20/29 or something like that) fuse you describe burnt out. Also when that goes there is no communication with the ecm......I plugged in my tuner to read codes and there was no power.....well I replaced the fuse.
Ok it has happened one more time since but not since I leave the column up. Seems when the headlight thing starts then the rest follow. I suspect the column harness either pulls tight or is getting pinched somewhere up inside but I am to lazy to tear it apart. What you guys think? Anybody esle run into this condition?
Eric
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 10,764
Likes: 39
Mine has done the same thing. Started with the headlights not being on at start-up. I would move the column un and down and the lights would come on. I usually like the column down. Well after that intermintent thing went on for about 6-8 months the truck gauge panel, acc pedal, etc shut off driving down the road and left me in the desert.
Well after some searching I found that 10amp (20/29 or something like that) fuse you describe burnt out. Also when that goes there is no communication with the ecm......I plugged in my tuner to read codes and there was no power.....well I replaced the fuse.
Ok it has happened one more time since but not since I leave the column up. Seems when the headlight thing starts then the rest follow. I suspect the column harness either pulls tight or is getting pinched somewhere up inside but I am to lazy to tear it apart. What you guys think? Anybody esle run into this condition?
Eric
Well after some searching I found that 10amp (20/29 or something like that) fuse you describe burnt out. Also when that goes there is no communication with the ecm......I plugged in my tuner to read codes and there was no power.....well I replaced the fuse.
Ok it has happened one more time since but not since I leave the column up. Seems when the headlight thing starts then the rest follow. I suspect the column harness either pulls tight or is getting pinched somewhere up inside but I am to lazy to tear it apart. What you guys think? Anybody esle run into this condition?
Eric
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,028
Likes: 3
From: Broad Run, Va
the tilt lever...
The issue is usually in the column. What part of the clamshell were you having trouble with? 3 phillips screws on the bottom, then unscrew the tilt lever and the bottom half comes off. Put the key in the ignition and turn to run, then push the little spring loaded ball up (under the column) and pull the key cylinder out. Then just remove the upper half of the cover. You'll see the wires coming out of the shift lever. Follow the wires and there is a small connector you can unplug (you'll loose the OD off feature) to get you by until you can get this fixed, or replace the lever.
I could not unscrew the tilt lever. Is there a trick to this? I did not use pliers or vice grips cuz I didnt want to scratch anything. Any suggestions?
BTW... this is an absolutly stupid problem to be having!!!
Thanks,
Andy
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
If you look closely at where the lever goes into the column, you'll notice 2 flat spots on the round shaft. You can use a small wrench on the flat spots to unscrew it, otherwise wrap a rag around the **** 4 or 5 times, then use the pliers.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 6,708
Likes: 5
From: Kiowa CO
Not to hijack 
but my OD light will not illuminate anymore. OD still works. Is it time for a new button or a short in the steering column?
but my OD light will not illuminate anymore. OD still works. Is it time for a new button or a short in the steering column?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
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From: Texas
I've only been playing with the autos for a few months, but based on what I've seen, if the button is still working, I'd pull the cover and check the wiring to be on the safe side. My wife's was broke right were the wires come out of the lever, so I had no choice but to buy a whole new shift lever. If you can catch it early, the time to pull the column cover is well worth it for the money you'll save not buying the new lever.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 6,708
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From: Kiowa CO
I've only been playing with the autos for a few months, but based on what I've seen, if the button is still working, I'd pull the cover and check the wiring to be on the safe side. My wife's was broke right were the wires come out of the lever, so I had no choice but to buy a whole new shift lever. If you can catch it early, the time to pull the column cover is well worth it for the money you'll save not buying the new lever.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 13,076
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From: Henderson, NV
I've only been playing with the autos for a few months, but based on what I've seen, if the button is still working, I'd pull the cover and check the wiring to be on the safe side. My wife's was broke right were the wires come out of the lever, so I had no choice but to buy a whole new shift lever. If you can catch it early, the time to pull the column cover is well worth it for the money you'll save not buying the new lever.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
Actually, once the OD button is pulled out the end of the shift lever, you can pull the socket out the end as well and then fish a whole new wire into the shift lever. 4-conductor household alarm wire works great as a replacement. You can use CAT5 cable too but then you would have add all sorts of other switches/buttons to make use of all the extra conductors and achieve HOTAS :-) Just be sure to remember which wire goes to which pin in the OD button socket and the connector at the other end on top of the steering column.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,028
Likes: 3
From: Broad Run, Va
Thanks for all this info fellas' .. Im getting ready to tear it down now.
I blew another fuse the other day when I dropped it down into "1st" .... We will see whats up soon.
Should I disconnect the battery when removing the key switch?
I blew another fuse the other day when I dropped it down into "1st" .... We will see whats up soon.
Should I disconnect the battery when removing the key switch?