Tried a search but it does not seem to want to work tonight so if this has been discussed please point the direction.

I have a 2002 F-250 C/C PSD, auto trans and auto hubs and the 4X4 is not working.

when I shift the rotary control to 4x4 the 4x4 indicator light on the dash lights up but the hubs dont seem to engage and it seems like the transfer case dosent shift, if I rotate to 4x4 low position those indicator lights do not come on at all, only continues to show normal 4x4 lights as above. checked the fuses I think they were #19 (10amp) and #111 ( 30 amp) and both seem fine.

any help would be great

Thanks in advance

Chris

 

I have the same exact truck and had what sounds like the same problem. There is a relay under the hood on the drivers side in a small black box that was the problem for me. Took it out, cleaned up the prongs and worked like a charm. This may or may not be your problem but it's one thing you can rule out.

 

Two things:

1) Try locking the hubs manually (if the **** moves anymore) and try 4x4 again.

2) Did you hear a clicking noise from the transfer case servo? If it clicks for a while and then stops, it's not going in.

Report back the answers to #1 and #2.

To get into 4LOW, you need to stop completely, put the tranny in neutral and with your foot on the brake, THEN turn the **** to 4LOW. You should hear a clunk from the transfer case when it goes it.

 

update

1.) Yep the hubs still move - with the hubs in manual mode the 4x4 works fine.

2.) cant here the servo in the transfer case but as above the shift went well but still no auto hubs?

and yep the low range works when done as you have directed - need to get a owners manual for just these reasons.

Chris

 

Well, if it really drives the front wheels when you manually lock the hubs, I'd take a look at the vacuum lines going to the hubs. That's a common problem.

 

To clarify, the vacuum lines I speak of actually run from the inner fender down to the steering knuckle.

 

Cowboy - thanks - I will get it in side this AM thaw it out and see what it looks like.

Chris

 

Yup, check the vacuum lines first.

In this order:

1) Vacuum lines
2) Hubs are sticking
3) Vacuum solenoid is bad
4) GEM module is bad (sometimes happens, but 99% of time on this site, it's been something else)


If the transfer case is shifting in right away, you won't hear the "click click click" that's only if it is NOT shifting right in.

Good luck, and get back to us if you need more help diagnosing the problem.

art k.

 

By the way, there's a relay too, and fuse, so that could also be the problem, but doubtful if everything else is working right.

There should be a 20 second LOCK vacuum pulse, and 5 second UNLOCK pulse.

 

Update –

Visual inspection of the hoses shows no obvious issues- when they go bad is it usually out by the hub? – How much vacuum should there be – the hoses slide off the barbed ends easily and no vacuum is felt at the end of the hose when I shift in and out of 4x4

In looking under the hood there are two small black plastic boxes with covers on the drivers side near the fire wall – the one to the front has three small what looks like relays in it – the rear one may have been an issue for the previous owner before as the cover is held down with black electrical tape. I did not open the rear cover at this point.

Any chance if its stuck hubs running in and out of manual will free them up? In reading the other form on 4x4 hubs it sounds like if it’s a hub issue I should just switch to Warns. Although it is nice (lazy me) to have the auto hubs for those hit and miss times.

Thanks for the help – Sorry it’s a delay between my replies

Chris

 

Did you have the engine running and someone switch the switch while you chk for vacuum ?
If the vacumm is not there then you have,fuse ,relay problem.
If the vacuum is there then you could have a hub seal problem.
Within the hub are o-rings that alow the vacuum to pull the hubs locked/unlocked.
As Krewat has said 20/5 sec pulse 1 time thats it not a repeating thing unles the switch is turned again and there is also a delay in there from the PCM.
Rich

 

While we're on the subject, I just got my '99 350 with ESOF back from the dealer. As if the $628 starter was not enough, they now recommend the following (with prices shown) in response to my comment that there was a vibration/grinding feel (no noise) in the driver's floor and steering wheel. I tried everything listed here on the forums before giving up and asking the dealer (it was there for the starter anyway).

They said the grinding/vibration I was feeling was coming from the 4x4 system. In particular, they said the front hubs were frozen and also not working (that sounds like the same thing to me but ...). They said the seals were bad and the vaccum system wasn't working (though they said there was vaccum pressure in the lines, so I assume they mean the hubs were not working). They also mentioned something about a needle bearing (or similar) and replacing parts of the axle and knuckles due to the hubs trying to engage and damaging those parts. If it matters, I have never manually engaged the front hubs as I didn't know it was necessary (or even what it did) until I found this forum a short time ago. I did try to manually engage the hubs when I got home this evening, but man they are stuck (I'm tempted to put a vice or something similar on the handle and really force it, but I'm afraid I'll make things worse). Here's the price breakdown from the dealer:

(01) New front auto-locking hubs $558.32 (I'm already gasping)
(02) Vac Line Hose $3 (much better)
(03) Transfer Case Flush $?? No Price Listed<NO listed price>
(04) Knuckle Large Seal $88.16
(05) Knuckle Small Seal $89.60
(06) Bearing $113.80
(07) O-Ring $15.84
(08) Seals $60.00
(09) Axle Shaft End $40.00
(10) Labor $400.00 (I just passed out)
(11) Tax $64.50

Total Damage $1,433.22

My thinking is that a SET of Warn Premium Hubs will cost less than half that of the Ford OEM auto locking hubs, and it sounds like I can install them myself fairly easily in my driveway. However, I don't know what the knuckle seals are or how to change them. I have no idea what the bearing is (is this the needle bearing the service guys mentioned?) or how to find and change it. I'm guessing the O-ring and seals are part of the factory auto-locking hubs, so if I go with the warn hubs, I can skip this all together. BUT, I'm really fearful of the 'axle shaft end' and brief / vague description by the dealer service guys that the axle ends may be mangled from the hubs trying to engage and need replacement (I'm guessing these are the axle shaft ends). If that is the case, my easy install of the warn hubs in my driveway is gone, and I'm screwed again. Also, I can't imagine how the axle shaft ends would be damaged as they described given that I've never rotated the hubs to the lock position, and I haven't had the ESOF dash switch in 4x4 since last winter - but there is the grinding/vibration feel so . . .

Also, I wonder if the starter death and all this hub/axle/seal trouble is in any way related to the 5 or 6 times this summer that I had to drive through deep water (definately above the hubs - so above the starter). Did I do this myself?

Any thoughts? Am I in over my head or what?

 

Miescha -- Dude...I feel your pain. Take a look at my thread. It actually has a lot of information...with pictures.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=434885

Regarding your transfer case flush, I was just quoted at my dealer service dept. that it was going to cost me $59.00. I'm getting the 90,000 mile maintenance.

Regarding the crossing of deep water. It is ALWAYS recommended that you change out the axle fluids and re-pack the bearings/hubs when crossing deep water. Not to say this is your fault, but maybe???...Sorry!

Good luck with it!

biz

 

Chris --

It could be your vacuum actuator...if you are not getting any vacuum. It was in my case.

Also...regarding your question if it’s stuck hubs? If you can manually put the hubs in Lock, then they are not stuck. Sorry. Again, in my case...I was told that my Auto hubs were stripped out. Only option if I want to keep the "Auto" function...is to get them replaced.

Hope it works out...

biz

 

Biz4two: when you were told the hubs were stripped out, was that actually the case or was it your vaccum system? If the hubs were stripped, what did you do (which hubs did you go with)?

Thanks!