Years ago while changing the hood on my old 77, I got tire of the clips that
the four hood bolts thread in to either breaking or falling out right in the
middle of installing it,and having to stop and go hunt another clip.

TIP / screw studs in the 4 mounting holes and locktite them, and then when
you go to mount the hood you need 4 nuts 4 lock washers and the hood is
real easy to line up!

I like to swap out my hoods I have one with a scoop, one without and it makes it a lot easier to play musical hoods!

 

when installing valve covers with new gaskets it will go alot easier if you tie the gaskets in place with thread thru the bolt holes, the thread keeps the gaskets from getting knocked loose. you can leave the thread on it wont cause a leak

 

Are you looking to rebuild one of our beloved '73-'79 rigs? Or any rig for that matter? Well, here's where you find parts -- CHEAP!

I've been working on my '77 for a couple of months and looking for a "donor" truck to give its all so that I can build what I want. I checked the usual place -- wrecking yards -- and was appalled by the prices. Here's what I found.

Contact your local towing company. They probably have a lay-down yard for vehicles they've towed and now have a lean on. Some of these vehicles will undoubtedly be older Ford trucks -- in varying degrees of condition.

I found the PERFECT donor for my project -- a COMPLETE '73 F-250 Camper Special -- for $300.00. The only thing it's missing is a carburator (and an interior, since the window has been rolled down for a few years...).

Just a thought. Hope this helps.

 

I read this in Hot Rod a couple of decades ago.

When laying on the ground working on your rig, prop your head on an empty 2-liter bottle with the lid screwed tight. It'll be a lot more comfortable and you'll avoid getting things in your hair (like ants and other creepy crawlys...).

 

When installing valve cover gaskets,I use small carb studs it lines every thing
up real nice, and then remove them and use the bolt to install!





P.S sometimes the studs are hard to get back out so you can cut a small
slot in the end of the stud, so you can use a screwdriver to remove them!

 

1) For oil pan gaskets and valve cover gaskets, I read about using 3M super trim adhesive to hold them in place. Which works great when the engine is still in the truck and yer laying underneath fighting with the pan.

2) Found a truck that doesn't have a key? then bring one of three key cylinders(wiring differences) that ford made between 73 and 79. I did this to get one home one time.

3) driveshafts are a pain and I wish there was a complete list of lengths, as I put a BW t-case in my 79 bronco and would also like to find other year ford shafts rather than cut the originals.

4) 67 to 72 cabs and front clips fit 73 to 79 frames (half tons only) but the beds are different, axles also wider.

I'm rambling, but here's one good tip:

5) don't ever scrap a 73 to 79 truck, as we will always need more parts and junk yards are starting to crush them.

 

when changing from standard to auto.
pack the inside of the throw out bushing w/ bearing grease, use a wooden dowel or something that just fits inside the bushing. couple good waks w/ a hammer and the grease will force the bushing right out.

 

Make sure you wrap a rag around the dowel or you will get a face full of grease.

 

Before tearing in to your project truck to restore it, go to the 70 's Ford truck auction ads on ebay , and look at those "for sale" and the bidding history on them. They will show what people are willing to pay for these trucks, even after they are fully restored to original or heavily moded out. Kind of helps to keep ones spending budget in perspective , if you think you may ever want to sell your project. You will get to see what people are actually spending on them , to get them to the condition they are in, with pics to see what they have done to them. Kind of cool to see all the different mods, and to get ideas from them. jmo

 

They never sell for what you have in them but then it is hobby money for play time not an investment.

 

i know this isnt 73-79 specific, but i got them on my 76 F-150's 460...i use medium size black zip-ties and make my own plug wire looms...they are not hard to make, and clean up the wires real cheap..........here is a pic.....


https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=80124&width=1

 

Decal Placement repost -- <O</O

Jack instructions: glove box door inside centered but one inch from front edge.

Emissions: I've seen them post on hood along right side under hood where the
inner frame work of hood molds over. But mine is located on wheel well frame just in front of windshield wiper fluid box.

Maintenance: Found also in two locations in glove box all the way to right and under hood just in front of the computer. To me the computer location seems wrong hard to read decal there.

Locking hubs: Sorry have not seen one at all, here with my three trucks or the ones at my families junk yard, and there are (8) 70-79 ford trucks out there.<O</O

<O</OSeat belts: It goes slightly forward of the door lock **** with the bottom about an 1"-1 1/2" above the window rubber.

 

windshield fits from 67 to 79 when using the seal that goes with the windshield

 

not specifficly 73-79, but when replacing a mechanical fuel pump on your engines, be sure you are at TDC. This way the cam eccentric is in the right place for the pump arm to slide right on, and you don't have to fight with it...

 

wellnot sure if it is a tip nmost of you can use but if you are converting to bucket seats from a bench and want your seat belt buckles standing up next to the seat rather than laying there a set feom a 1st gen escort(81-90) will work great