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Well, I realized I didn’t make a build post. I’m HORRIBLE at documenting progress, more of a dive in and then go “oh, I should have taken before pics” so here goes.
Rusty is the name my son gave to the truck (but I just call it The Ford for now). It’s a 1969 F100 4x4 w/ possibly a 428 and 4spd manual and dual tanks. Photo heavy, but will try to keep progress notes.First up is the “before” pics when I parked it. Semi-orginal interior.
Last edited by Doc Nash; Mar 27, 2026 at 12:52 AM.
Removed as much rust from the drip rails as possible, followed by grinding/wire wheel. Used Eastwood Rust Encapsulator, followed by JB weld for all the holes, and then 3M seam sealer on the topside of the drip rails. (Pics to come soon)
Stripped out the interior, scrubbed all the 57yrs of dirt from under the carpet and seats, pulled the old in-cab tank, all the wiring, and the gauge cluster. Like I said, I kinda just tore down without a real plan, just get to blank cab and then go from there. Still need to get the old stuff/crusty/moldy seatbelts out. Trimmed up new floor pans, and have removed the rusty passenger side. No plan to weld, but will take off the paint, use rust encapsulator, then body panel adhesive with rivets to hold the new pans to the original good metal. Not professional, I know, but it’ll work for now. Doing this on a budget, outside, in the driveway. Thank goodness for SoCal weather!
Nice
Might take a while to fix the body but the motor alone is worth fixing the truck up
Are you running it around with the gas can strapped to the grille?
Nice
I think I'd weld in a whole new roof and lead it in
Got a similar situation on my 68 Camaro where the old Vinyl top rusted the hell out of mine
Nice
Might take a while to fix the body but the motor alone is worth fixing the truck up
Are you running it around with the gas can strapped to the grille?
Nice
I think I'd weld in a whole new roof and lead it in
Got a similar situation on my 68 Camaro where the old Vinyl top rusted the hell out of mine
Hahaha no, that was just to get it running since all the gas in the tanks varnished over. It’s off now since it’s parked. My main goal was just to keep the cab dry inside for now, get it running and then eventually work out all the rest. But my drip
rail repair has worked, no leaks or any further rust growth. Gotta do the same thing to driver floor pan. Brakes, electrical, sound deadening, interior, glass, and fuel system eventually.
428 2BBl industrial?
Sure, could be with that Ford Power Products sticker on there
If that is the case, it might have some good valves in it, ie sodium filled
428 2BBl industrial?
Sure, could be with that Ford Power Products sticker on there
If that is the case, it might have some good valves in it, ie sodium filled
it’s possible. Not sure on the history of the first couple owners. Also could simply be valve covers and nothing else.
428 2V sounds like an Industrial engine maybe for a irrigation pump. I can't remember a factory car line 428 2v.
that’s what I’ve discovered too. What would that look like power wise? It now has a 4bbl carb & edelbrock intake that previous owner installed along with pertronix ignition
Industrial is typically low compression and low RPM for steady state use, irrigation - generator. Does the block have what looks like ribs along the bottom just above the oil pan rail ? If you google the tag number it will come up 180HP mostly run on propane.
It looks like those industrial 2V 428 engine blocks were indeed special (some of them)
It'd be worth a look if your block has the "428" casting "C" or "CX" on it anywhere
Industrial is typically low compression and low RPM for steady state use, irrigation - generator. Does the block have what looks like ribs along the bottom just above the oil pan rail ? If you google the tag number it will come up 180HP mostly run on propane.
