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Not a bad steering wheel! I have used JB Weld to fill cracks. Used a toothpick to push in the filler. The JB Weld blends pretty nicely with the patina too.
I ended up using a file to open up the cracks and ordered the PC-7 product that I heard about. Used JB weld products before and this seems fairly similar, but more of a paste consistency.
On another note, I am working on my 83' Bronco restoration and have most of the frame sandblasted. If anyone is looking to use the Eastwood Optiflow Primer, it works great. The spray cans have had issues, but the roll on stuff really dries nice and flat!
Just a reminder. Rivets fit fill the hole 100% so there is no play. Most bolts are under size so there will be some play. Make sure every thing is aligned before you weld it. The reason I suggested shoulder bolts, OD is true.
Was having a hell of a time finding shoulder bolts that were not insanely expensive, so I went ahead and ordered (50) grade 8 serrated-flange hex head bolts and nuts from McMaster for my Bronco project to see how I like them. Figured I will 1/2 torque them, get the frame assembled, then take them off individually, put some loctite on them and full torque them. Check them after it gets done in about a year and then decide if I will just weld the nuts at the point.
You could also do a rosette weld to lock it in place. Drill a hole off side at a few spots and weld once everything is good. Shoulder bolts are never cheap since they are high tolerance. I spend a ton at McMaster Carr for supplies, my hardware source. They have some really good flapper disk that seam to outlast anything else I've tried. Cheaper than the local hardware store where I'm at.
Finally getting painted!...Painter mistakenly painted the grille rather than the bumper Wimbledon white, but i don't hate it! Should be all painted in the next couple weeks.
Had to order a new tailgate that comes today, and working on getting some other small parts ordered so that things can finally get put back together.
Ordered a bunch of stuff off LMC yesterday for both this project and my 83' Bronco I'm restoring as well. They cover the shipping if you order $2,500 or more. Needed new handles, window regulators, tailgate hardware (getting the cables so it does not rattle), and went ahead and decided to order new tinted glass all around. I was going to keep the original clear glass, but with the free shipping and the minimum to hit I went ahead and ordered new glass...
I am in the process of getting the vent windows disassembled so I can sand and paint these so they can receive all new channels and rubber when the parts get here. With that being said, I am going to have a full set of original glass for sale at some point if anyone has an idea of what a good asking price would be? Everything is in really good shape. Just going to hang on until I see the quality of the tinted stuff and make sure I don't change my mind.
vent window disassembly removal of rubber seals Old seals and guides original vent glass
Was somewhat overwhelmed with the lack of information / disassembly process on these vent windows, but got them all disassembled and just waiting on some Fine Clean Bite Crushed Glass media to get here next week so I can clean them up and paint. Still deciding on what paint I'm going to use...Everything came apart better than expected and will be nice to know that there isn't any trapped dirt or rust in these when I put them back in the truck.
Had to order some of the glass channel tape since my rebuild kit did not come with any of that. Hope to have these reassembled by the end of next weekend.
I have 6 steel wheels that im planning on sandblasting and either painting boxwood green, or going to have them powder coated gloss black. Still can't decide...
3 of them have an extra hole between two of the lug holes...anyone know what this is for?
Also, is there anyway to hide wheel weights rather than have these ugly weights on the outside after they balance them?
all stamped with same 16 x 7k purpose of this hole, and why some have them and some don't?
The wheel weights need to be placed on different sides and location due to where the imbalance is. Stick-on can be used on steel wheels but not the best.
I've seen extra holes on rims and have never thought what they may be fore. My only guess is if your doing a full spin balance of the assembly and it's a location marker. So when you pull the wheel it can go back to the original orientation.
Back in the early 70's when I was getting factory training by GM they had a balancer used without removing the wheels. It had a remote sensor that you placed in different locations. All I know is when you went to high speed race balance, the normal balance would not even be on the scale. But when you finished you had an ultra smooth ride. At 140mph it was ultra smooth.
