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Superduty axle track bar on 1978

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Old Feb 23, 2026 | 08:51 AM
  #1  
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Superduty axle track bar on 1978

Hey all,

So i picked up a half finished project on a cummins swapped highboy running 08 superduty axles. I just made a track bar bracket (photos) but curious to know what to do for geometry. I'll likely swap the side on the lower bracket or do a raise bracket on the axle side to keep it parallel with the drag link, but how much does the length difference matter?
Looking for some advice on the setup and what others have done

Keep in mind the axle is drooping a fair bit as its on the lift here, and the track bar is just temporary. I need to fab a proper length one.


 
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Old Feb 23, 2026 | 11:59 AM
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Axle will drop and rise in use too. Same angle (parallel) and length are best ... so that the axle goes up / down in the exact same arc as the drag link. Any deviation in length or angle will change the arc. How much length matters depends on how close to right you want or demand the result to be.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2026 | 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by tbear853
Axle will drop and rise in use too. Same angle (parallel) and length are best ... so that the axle goes up / down in the exact same arc as the drag link. Any deviation in length or angle will change the arc. How much length matters depends on how close to right you want or demand the result to be.

Okay, do you know if there are any axle side brackets that bring the bar further out towards the passenger side? I know a lot of people run a steering box on the inside of the frame when doing the axle swap, but I still have the one mounted on the outside which makes it a pain with the extra length
 
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Old Feb 23, 2026 | 01:49 PM
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From: The Shenandoah Valley
Originally Posted by Dentsider
Okay, do you know if there are any axle side brackets that bring the bar further out towards the passenger side? I know a lot of people run a steering box on the inside of the frame when doing the axle swap, but I still have the one mounted on the outside which makes it a pain with the extra length
No idea here, sorry. Maybe they fab something?
 
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Old Feb 23, 2026 | 02:11 PM
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Please read post 2 again, I find they drive better when the drag link and the track bar are the same angle. Less bump steer.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2026 | 08:05 PM
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So you either run a trac bar drop bracket (attached to a frame) OR...get a riser bracket that goes on top of the axle tube. Some thing sort of like this.

Yes for a Dana 44 but to get you a general idea of what it might look like. https://tomsoffroad.com/products/tra...hoCBIMQAvD_BwE

But you really need one that is for the Super Duty Axle. See the 2nd pic way it mounts?
https://barnes4wd.com/products/2005-...xoCd-4QAvD_BwE

Here is one for the SD coil spring front end. https://nextventuremotorsports.com/products/raised-adjustable-trackbar-mount-for-dana-60-truss?variant=37383485554881&country=US&currency=U SD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_c ontent=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&srslti d=AfmBOoqajbwwSTtuUMFXUWugDRInJ14okvfW_SeV9cfylBsq PY5La8Aa-zc

Yes you want to try and get the trac bar and the drag link as parallel to each other as possible.


 
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Old Feb 24, 2026 | 08:07 AM
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You will need to make that frame side mount outboard more. If you're just running on the street you might be able to get away with what you have but I would bet money you end up with death-wobble.

I cut the mount off the axle and welded one as far over as possible, then made a mount on the frame side that outboarded as far as I could without hitting the 40" tire at full lock.

I also made this to help visualize the deflection of various angles/lengths in this type of steering geometry: https://irate4x4.com/resources/track...-simulator.68/



 
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Old Feb 24, 2026 | 08:10 AM
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Another option I forgot to mention was converting to a super duty steering box that mounts on the inside of the driver's side frame rail, that will shorten your drag-link significantly. I wish I did this from the beginning and will be doing so eventually. BattleBornBrakes.com sells what you need to do that but if you can fab you can DIY. Just time and money.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2026 | 10:58 AM
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Yep, post #7 shows how the geometry should be. _ _ _ arc for arc is the hopeful fit.

On my '77 F350 Crew, it was originally a 2wd chassis. I mounted '76 high-boy front springs, crossmember and shackles.
I mounted and inside-the-rails PS steering box from a '93 2wd F150 because they are readily available at $40.00 US dollars.
I made up a spooled mounting bracket that bolts thru the frame rails and made up a drag-link. _ _ All Good !
_ _ _ all good until I hit an un-seen Badger hole in the interstate which induced Death Wobble.
Following that incident, I then purchased a Panhard Rod from a '79 Full-Sized Bronco and modified it to bolt to my King-Pin Dana 60.
Seems I purchased a high-steer knuckle bracket from Dyna-Trac also, for the cross-over steering.
It looks similar to @User 32921 's setup. I haven't experienced a Death Wobble since, and very little bump-steer.
 

Last edited by Greaser007; Feb 24, 2026 at 11:01 AM.
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Old Feb 24, 2026 | 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by User 32921
You will need to make that frame side mount outboard more. If you're just running on the street you might be able to get away with what you have but I would bet money you end up with death-wobble.

I cut the mount off the axle and welded one as far over as possible, then made a mount on the frame side that outboarded as far as I could without hitting the 40" tire at full lock.

I also made this to help visualize the deflection of various angles/lengths in this type of steering geometry: https://irate4x4.com/resources/track...-simulator.68/



Ok awesome, that visual helps me a ton. Thanks for that! Death wobble isn't too difficult to deal with, it's the bump steer I don't want. I 100% would've gone with a superduty steering box, but my main goal at the moment is just to have this thing able to be safetied and get it on the road. Maybe in the future I'll tie into the box upgrade when I get more time.
 
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