[Thread Update] Instead of creating multiple post, I'm going to share what I'm doing on this truck and post my questions here. I'm not a mechanic or expert, I don't know much about cars but I can follow instructions and learn.

Here is what it looks like, I paid $900 for it, no key, no title (towed by the city for not having tag), but I can get one.













I bought this 86 F-150 I know almost nothing about. It has not run for at least a year I think. The oil on the dipstick looked a bit suspicious and dirty so I drained the oil.
At least 1 to 2 quarts of water came out first, then oil, and at the end some slimy stuff. Oil filter had some water in it too.


Are the head gaskets done? Could it be condensation ?

 

If the water has antifreeze in it, then it's going to be a problem. If it's just water, does it have carburetor or is it fuel injected? If it is something like a 351w with a carb, and it was just water, more than likely water ran down the back of the hood onto the top of the aircleaner and ran down in the engine. The carb should be rusted up also. Very common problem.

 

It's a 5.0L EFI, it looked like straight water, no coolant...

 

There's probably a couple ways water could make its way in on an EFI. Through the throttle body or maybe the EGR. Have you pulled the plugs and looked into the cylinders? Can you turn the engine by hand?

 

I gather there is a cap on the oil fill on the valve cover.



Here's what's the engine should look like

 

You know it is easy enough to check if from cooling system.
Before adding oil leave the oil plug off, fill the cooling system with water and get a cooling system pressure tester.
If the pressure holds then you can fill the oil and move forward.
If it dose not hold check if coming out the oil drain hole or somewhere else.
Dave ----

 

I was finally able to do a coolant pressure system testing today and it held 13PSI for 40 minutes or so. I've put 5qt of 10w40 and a new oil filter, I completely rebuilt the steering column too.
I cranked it for the first time since I got the truck and it ran with a massive exhaust manifold leak and a noise that seems to come from the upper part of engine...
Transmission goes into gear, so far not too bad.

 

Are all the spart plugs in the motor Or is that the manifold leak I hear?
Dont overlook the air pump injection tube *** they rust out and can leak exh.
Also if it has been sitting a lifter may not be pumping up.
It is just hard to hear just what and where the noise is coming from.

I would also not go to crazy spending money on the truck till you can get the title in your name.
You could spend a lot of money over the $900 you spent to buy it and have the owner show up and take it from you and you are out everything you put into it.
Bed enough loosing the time put in but to loose the money is even worst
Dave ----

 

The sound quality on my phone is pretty bad, but I think the ticking sound comes from a lifter on the passenger side of engine.
Truck was sold through a government auction, they made sure to contact the owner and the bank no one has claimed it, I should be good on that, but yeah I want to make sure there is no major issue before putting more money in it.

 

I hear you on no major problems but just wanted to make sure someone would not come and grab it after you did all the work and money to get it back on the road.

As for the lifter tick it may work it's self out with a little running as it maybe stuck from sitting?
How dirty did the oil look when you drained it, I know it had water in it. Now that it is running is the oil with no water in it?
Did it turn black right away or it is not bad for the run time on it?
I ask because the next time you go and change the oil & filter add 1 qt of ATF to the oil as it warms up and you get the oil change tools together, just let it idle.
The ATF will get pumped thru the motor and is like a mild cleaner and may help that lifter.
If you run the store-bought engine flushes it is too harsh and can knock the crud into the pan and block the oil pump pick up.

My motor was not that dirty when I replaced the oil pan, valve cover and side cover gaskets, I cleaned them all before I installed them, but the oil did turn black pretty quickly.
I been running the ATF before each oil change and it now take a while before it turns dark. It is hard to read the level on the stick till it turns a little dark.
Dave ----

 

I got it idling for 2 minutes or so yesterday and I haven't been able to start the engine after that. The oil still looks like new.
I'll probably run this oil for a 100 miles or so and keep an eye on the oil color, didn't know about ATF before oil change. I've been putting Valvoline Restore and protect 5W30 in other vehicles it's supposed to slowly clean the engine without clogging the oil pickup tube.

So now I'm jumping directly to a new issue, I don't have fuel, my truck is a single fuel tank... I depressed the schrader valve on fuel rail and nothing came out and I don't hear the pump running.
I took the fuel pump relay out from the firewall. With the ignition on start I have 12V on 361-red wire but no ground on 97 T/LG. I have 6V ? on the switch side 37 Yellow. Ground is okay on 787 PK/BK. I verified the good continuity through the relay coil (61ohms). I also pushed reset button on inertia switch.
So I think I should get to the EEC but I'm not sure what to look for next ?

 

Your '86 EFI truck has two fuel pumps. A low pressure pump inside the gas tank and a high pressure pump inside the frame rail under the driver's side door. Both pumps run for only one second when you turn on the key. For the pumps to restart and continue to run the ECM must see that the engine is cranking or running.

To test the pumps, with key on, ground the pump test socket on the ECM self test connector near the battery/starter solenoid. Pressure at Shrader valve should be around 40 psi. System should maintain the pressure after the pump is shut off.

 

Thanks I didn't know about this connector, I have a fuel pressure gauge unfortunalety none of the adapter will fit the fuel port.

I don't know if this could be related to my issue but anyone knows what are these wires that are connected to the starter solenoid ? it look like the previous owner messed with the yellow wires and removed the fuse links.







photo upload

 

Fuse links are just like they say they are fuses that link to power.
They protect and feed different things in the truck.
The yellow one I think feeds power to inside the truck, fuse box and IGN switch so when you turn on the key you get power thru out the truck.
There should also be a black / orange wire with a link from the ALT to the solenoid. That is the charge / output wire from the ALT to charge the battery.


What the fuse link is is a slow blow fuse. When you turn on different things there is a high demand (amps) before that thing in on line. Electric motors, blower motors, are great when you first turn them on to go above the normal running amps and if a normal fuse was used it would blow every time the motor was turned on. The link will not blow (burn out) unless the amps a really high for a longer time.

My guess that 1 or both blew and someone bypassed them. I would replace them ASAP because if there is still a short it can then melt the trucks harness.
Now I just went thru this with a buddy and at 1 time you could get replacement link at your local parts store. Well he tried 3 different stores, I even went to 1 with him, and none had them
We then looked it up a Amazon and came up with a Dorman part number, went back in and they looked it up but there was no price listed so he could not even order it.
Because all the stores get their parts from the same place none would be able to order it.
Now NAPA maybe able to get them as they use a different wearhouse but we did not want to drive across town and I think they were closed anyway.

So you can order them from Amazon or check with NAPA. Note they have different blow rates like a normal fuse so you have to make sure you get the right size.
At 1 time you could also get a roll of fuse link wire but do you really need 25 ft+ of fuse link wire?
Dave ----

 

You'll want to check the EMTV for the battery charge, as that page will show the correct fuseable links.








Some reference pictures, from my 86 302EFI. Make sure the battery cables are in great condition, notice the ground from negative post to frame, then onto the bolt on the engine block near oil pan.






Battery ground to engine block, you'll need to open up the boltholes on that ground cable, I got from NAPA