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I was given a bronze bushing with my rebuilt clutch but when I get home I'll take a look at my input shaft. My truck has 200K miles but was only swapped to a ZF6 shortly before I bought it.
I may go with the bushing they gave me, I just don't know what brand it is or anything of that sort.
If I had access to the $2075 I might have had it mounted on a plaque of sorts with something like "The worlds most expensive bolt" so you could hang it in your shop and laugh a bit each time you saw it.
You better believe that SOB is going to get framed and be placed on 'the wall of shame' among the other carnage parts I've produced and collected over the years. It was cleaned in a saline solution (aka tears) as soon as I found it. ;-(My boys are 14 and 17. I've joked I would tell them they can still believe in presents from Santa - but this year the fat guy brought Dad's truck a new transmission. Lol.
I'm sure Midwest offered to reseal my transmission. That would have meant taking it out and sending it to them.....
Do you remember, or would you expect them to cover the labor to pay someone to do the job again, for those of us without a shop? It seems to me that a warranty really should cover the labor, if its clear that their trans is a at fault. Otherwise, as yuo pointed pointed out, the warranty is basically useless.
This truck is no snowflake. It has worked hard its entire life. In the 340k miles I've put on it, it's weighed 10k lbs or more and hauled my 12.5k lb campers and much heavier loads constantly. My 'tow tune' dyno's 320hp and since I burn nearly-free veggie oil, my right foot is not connected to my wallet. I always joke that they never clock you going UP the mountain! (why I was smiling when I heard turbo spool up the day I let some smoke out of the clutch that wasn't rated for the power it was asked to transmit...) Many of you have also seen this truck make dozens of passes on the drag strip and pull the sled over 300ft at least a few times.
Oohhhhh.... Well, that paints a different picture then. I drive mine like a stolen mule ( not even rented- those have a deposit on them), but I'm not carrying anywhere near that weight, nor am I doing sled pulls. I feel better about the expected remaining life of my trans now.
Originally Posted by SkySkiJason
....... There are 'repair kits' that put a sleeve over the input shaft and use a larger ID needle bearing, but you are still dealing with an open bearing that cannot be lubricated.......
Just an FYI, the DieselSite / FitzAll repair kit/sleeve comes with a needle bearing which is sealed, not open. It has a pretty stout lip seal which actually fits pretty tight on the shaft. I also packed a little extra good quality grease int here before we put it together. Of course there is no way to easily check on the seal to see how it holds up over time, but it is sealed initially anyway.
I'm not 100% on this, but I'm pretty sure the bearing is also longer/deeper, giving it better support over a larger surface area.
We've made a few bushings out of oilite bronze and I'm working on a input shaft repair sleeve to go with one of these self-lubriating bushings.
While your building things anyway, what about applying a low friction dry film lubricant coating to the sleeve OD and the bushing ID as well? I'm referring to the type of engine coatings used on piston skirts, bearings, etc.... Every little bit would help. Even better would be some sort of method of periodically re-greasing, without having to remove the trans. Some sort of grease tube leading to an external zerk. Maybe you could squeeze something up against the block, behind the flywheel?
I was given a bronze bushing with my rebuilt clutch but when I get home I'll take a look at my input shaft. My truck has 200K miles but was only swapped to a ZF6 shortly before I bought it.
I may go with the bushing they gave me, I just don't know what brand it is or anything of that sort.
I never really finished the thread, as I had intended to do a lot more of a write up, along with instructions, reviews, and opinions. Maybe one day 'll get back to it. But, all the pertinent part#s are there. As well as some info on the clutch.
I never really finished the thread, as I had intended to do a lot more of a write up, along with instructions, reviews, and opinions. Maybe one day 'll get back to it. But, all the pertinent part#s are there. As well as some info on the clutch.
The fitzall kit does not use a 'sealed bearing'. It is still an open bearing (needles ride on input shaft vs an inner race).
It is a bigger bearing - riding on more of the input shaft - but, the failure mode will be the same as OE when the lube goes away...
Although, if you could find a quality bearing like this (not a Chinesey skateboard bearing) and your input shaft was MINT - I would consider this. The sealed bearing I used was not the highest quality... I'm hoping SB has sourced something better.
This is the sealed bearing Southbend includes in the Dual Disc Street Clutch. I'm not willing to gamble a warranty issue with my new +$1000 clutch set or I would have made an oilite bushing for this.
There will be no labor/install warranty on any bench-built transmission I am aware of....
I like the idea of a Teflon or similar coating on the repair sleeve. Not sure if there are any coatings that can handle that kind of pressure though..... (I'm thinking about products like we use on piston skirts)
I'd worry about lubricating anything inside bellhousing contaminating the clutch.
I decided to rotate the tires and figured it's about time to replace the front brake pads.
Drove it home. I love the way this clutch feels. It is smooth but definitive engagement. Pedal is a little harder than the Con OFE or the clutch we used in Sous's truck, but nowhere near as hard as stock.
Haha... Beat me to it, j-doggy. Saw the, not oilite installed, earlier today but got busy with my own shiat. Was going to ask, why no oilite....brakes look slick!
Looks good, hope the clutch and transmission treat you well. I know my truck is a completely different and much more well behaved animal since we got it back from you.
Haha... Beat me to it, j-doggy. Saw the, not oilite installed, earlier today but got busy with my own shiat. Was going to ask, why no oilite....brakes look slick!
I didn't want to beat you to it... I babied that stock clutch for a year, then I forgot to baby it one time - it was never ok again. EBC Yellowstuff brake pads. This is the best braking power you can get on these trucks. I also run Bosch rotors and usually swap them out at pad changes (lifetime warranty), but this was kind of a surprise brake job.I'm glad you are happy with your truck Sous!!!
I like the idea of a Teflon or similar coating on the repair sleeve. Not sure if there are any coatings that can handle that kind of pressure though..... (I'm thinking about products like we use on piston skirts)
I'd worry about lubricating anything inside bellhousing contaminating the clutch.
A TIN or TIALN coating, as used on cutting tools, might do the job. But, that would need to be applied before the shaft was installed.
I hear ya, doggy. I'm on borrowed time as it is now. The oilite's beg'n to be released! However, think, this truck will be hit'n the market after the new year...😒 This new truck I just scored on, I'm hitn it with a comb. Rather dump the funds now, then do it again, later (learned from experience😉. I'm dig'n them brakes, and my mentality is their with yours, with the lifetime gig👍
A TIN or TIALN coating, as used on cutting tools, might do the job. But, that would need to be applied before the shaft was installed.
I'm not familiar with that type of coating, but maybe we could put something like that on the repair sleeves that are inserted on the input shaft?Or apply it to a new input shaft prior to transmission rebuild?
12-23-2017, 09:03 AM
), but I'm not carrying anywhere near that weight, nor am I doing sled pulls. I feel better about the expected remaining life of my trans now.
. I'm dig'n them brakes, and my mentality is their with yours, with the lifetime gig👍