excellent timing!

 

Where can I get the valve?

 

Hwybee22, look at post 18. Parts numbers and all. Still haven't mine on. Temps next week in the 70's will make a run both ways and install on return.

 

Bulletproof Diesel has them.

 

I think I am on board with this too. I'll make the swap at the next change.

 

Any updates to this thread? Tideman?

 

I just ordered the parts from Bulletproof and they should arrive at the end of next week. It could be a shot in the dark, but with the truck performing with no issues besides the 30* delta differences. Hopefully this will fix the problem, if not, I know where the issue lays.

 

I hope it works for you.

 

I finally got my valve in and will try to find time to get it in, then report back with a update.

 

It's not like we are all watching you, only most of us.... please post a picture or two of your old valve. Thanks.

 

My truck is very similar to Copper.Farms. Driving level @ 65 my dp is around 5 degrees. If I'm towing my 11k fiver my dp drops to 1. But if I have to pull a steep grade my ect and eot will continue to rise until the fan fully engages at 225. Then the ect will drop back to around 200,while the eot will take a lot longer to come back down. So do you think the bypass valve could be partially stuck open all the time?. That could explain the temperature dp while unloaded. Then when loaded, the oil flow increases due to the rpm increase. Which moves more oil through the cooler.

I'm going to have to pull that valve now and check it out.

 

When looking at the entire oil system - My theory is that the oil flow while motor under load as influenced by IPR/IPS pressure as commanded by PCM, that wave of pressure helps to close the valve supporting more flow through the oil cooler. All of which changes based upon RPM and load.

RPM equates to volume for both LPOP and HPOP.
IPR/IPS increases with load on motor.
Eventually the motor reaches a tipping point in which the oil flow shifts from being pushed to being pulled - we would not notice until the LPOP drops below 7psi, though the wear on the valve indicates that the valve is very active.

I would extend further, by saying that the oil cooler bypass valve is probably more active/worn in a manual transmission than in an automatic - in that the constant motor load/unload of manually shifting up through the gears reaches that tipping point multiple times where as an automatic is more constant load at constant rpm to obtain acceleration through the transmission rather than the motor.

Obviously nothing can help a clogged oil cooler other than replacement.

 

Any more updates on this? I'm wondering if I shouldn't just consider it a wear item and replace regardless on the next oil change?

 

I'm glad I read this thread & checked mine to see how worn it was. Helped me on the decision to completely eliminate it all together and go with a remote cooler. Really didn't want to replace this multiple times over the years and be at the mercy of only 1 vendor supplying them.

 

They now sell it as a complete assembled unit, not individual parts.