Traded a F350 for a F250
#61
Well, I finally finished cleaning and sanding the new(to me) inner fenders. I coated then with rust reformer for now. Since it's cold, and it's snowing outside as I write this, there won't be any more painting going on for a while. But at least none of the parts will keep rusting. I finished the radiator support and the shield that protects the mid-ship fuel tank filler hose( the one that sits on the driver's side in the front corner of the bed).
I took the parts outside for this pic about 2PM today. By 7 PM the driveway was covered with 1.5 - 2 inches of snow. Shield is in background.
I took the parts outside for this pic about 2PM today. By 7 PM the driveway was covered with 1.5 - 2 inches of snow. Shield is in background.
#62
I already have a 3' X 4' piece of galvanized sheet metal to begin replacing the eaten up battery tray area. Next I'll get some 3" X 3"X 3/16th angle iron for the vertical corner, where that large hole is, so there's be plenty of support for the battery. I plan on installing a piece of 2" wide by 1/4" thick, flat bar stock on the passenger side inner fender. I want to attach the starter solenoid, horn relay, and the other relays later (lights, electric fan) to the flat bar stock instead of the inner fender. I would like to use a piece of stainless steel for the bar stock, but I need to check on the price. I may have to go with 3/8" thick alum. I'll use some rubber insulators to give the bar some stand off from the inner fender too. Of course it will have a dediciated monster sized ground cable linked to the frame! Now on to cleaning up the headers!.
#63
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#68
After all that fun I decided to do something easier- Like remove the the drivers side front bed bolt. It had ripped a hole in the bed, and was hiding inside of the frame cross member. I could see it laughing at me when I tried to lock my vise-grips onto the flat head. After trying that a few times, on to plan B. I soaked the bolt head and the nut side with my 50/50 mix of acetone and oil. I jacked the front left corner of the truck bed up (thinking that it would give me more room) then I attempted to use a large flat tip screwdriver to hold the bolt threads. while using a 1/2" drive, 3/4" socket on the nut. The good thing about wearing gloves is, at least you can't see how bad that jagged metal piece got you, when the bolt spun. On to plan C. If I couldn't hold the bolt head, or the shaft, why not hold the end of the bolt (the last 1/2" of the bolt is not threaded) with the vise-grips and turn the nut with an open end wrench. As shown in the next picture.
#70
Well enough of the easy life, tomorrow(Tuesday )I plan on cleaning & sanding the tank exterior and the shield. I put a bid in at a COPART auction on a 69 ranger. The body is in very good shape. Passenger floor pan is rusted, but that's about all. The PO took the intake off of the stock 360. Then gave up on it I guess, and donated the truck to charity. If I get it I might take that body off and put it on my frame(since my brakes and engine work). I hope that the C6 works in that truck( mine will not go into 3rd).
#72
I can feel your pain. I do to. Only it's in my friends garage back in Toledo, Ohio. But it's out of a 67 Galaxy. Was going to put it in a 55 F100 but never did that project. Had it built H.D. Even the CJ servo.
#73
#74