2004 6.0 ill not start - where do I begin, new to diesels...
Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,803
Likes: 4
If you have another 6.0 available to you, I'd pull your FICM and try it in their truck - any Powerstroke programmed FICM will start and run any other Powerstroke. That is BY FAR the easiest way to rule out the FICM.
I agree with what's been said, though - dropping to 7.0 on the FICM is ALL bad. If it isn't shot, it absolutely took a hit.
If you'd like, you can send it across to us as well if you don't have another 6.0 to test with. While we have it, regardless of whether there is an issue with it, we could even load you up with a performance tune to make you fall in love your 6.0 all over again. Yes, the difference is that dramatic.
FICMRepair.com - FORD Powerstroke 6.0 FICM Repair, PHP Tuning and Truck Parts
I agree with what's been said, though - dropping to 7.0 on the FICM is ALL bad. If it isn't shot, it absolutely took a hit.
If you'd like, you can send it across to us as well if you don't have another 6.0 to test with. While we have it, regardless of whether there is an issue with it, we could even load you up with a performance tune to make you fall in love your 6.0 all over again. Yes, the difference is that dramatic.
FICMRepair.com - FORD Powerstroke 6.0 FICM Repair, PHP Tuning and Truck Parts
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
I may be sending it to you, What does that cost? you can PM if you do not want to psot here. Another questions is where is the FICM? Im assuming it is the Fuel Injector Control Module (what FICM stands for I mean)
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
UPDATE - Charged the batts all night. initially 12.4V key off. The key on drops to 11.5V then after three tries dropped to 8.75 (Also learned all acronyms for communication purposes)
Key on - FLM is 48V - cranking stays 48V
Key on - FLP is 11.5 - cranking drops to 9.75 once as low as 8.75
Key on 0 Sync - jumped with a spudder the first attempt to 1 then back to 0 and staying there.
Key on - ICP 2 - cranking jumped up to 1200-1700 range
Key on - IPR 14.5 - cranking 74-78%
Here are my thoughts- Batteries first- recheck operations and parameters.
If FLP stays low check FICM wires and or replace.
If Voltage corrects and still no SYNC go after the cam sensor wiring first, then sensor.
If still no sync do the same to the Crank sensor.
If finally get sync and still no start - bubble test.
If it starts make sure the alternator is putting out no less than 13.3V when running.
It is not throwing any codes. It did have a P2285 ICP circuit low in memory bank and cleared it over the weekend. I assumed it was from me disconnecting the connector on the pass side valve cover.
I am starting to think that is wrong. What is that sensor for - Fuel or oil pressure?
That is where it's at- thoughts, comments or comedic interjection are all welcome.
Cheers, Mike
Key on - FLM is 48V - cranking stays 48V
Key on - FLP is 11.5 - cranking drops to 9.75 once as low as 8.75
Key on 0 Sync - jumped with a spudder the first attempt to 1 then back to 0 and staying there.
Key on - ICP 2 - cranking jumped up to 1200-1700 range
Key on - IPR 14.5 - cranking 74-78%
Here are my thoughts- Batteries first- recheck operations and parameters.
If FLP stays low check FICM wires and or replace.
If Voltage corrects and still no SYNC go after the cam sensor wiring first, then sensor.
If still no sync do the same to the Crank sensor.
If finally get sync and still no start - bubble test.
If it starts make sure the alternator is putting out no less than 13.3V when running.
It is not throwing any codes. It did have a P2285 ICP circuit low in memory bank and cleared it over the weekend. I assumed it was from me disconnecting the connector on the pass side valve cover.
I am starting to think that is wrong. What is that sensor for - Fuel or oil pressure?
That is where it's at- thoughts, comments or comedic interjection are all welcome.
Cheers, Mike
Super Moderator
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 21,113
Likes: 3,939
From: Ohio
ICP is oil, has to see 500 PSI to start. If you unhook the ICP, the signal goes to a default setting. The injector plunger is driven by high oil pressure and that pressure is controlled by an electric spool valve. The high pressure oil pump at WOT should build up to 4,200lbs, you will see 3,800 most times.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 6,545
Likes: 13
From: Virginia Beach VA
My replies are in red
Program FPW (fuel pulse width) into the scan gauge to see is its commanding fuel) so you can see it asking for fuel once you get sync correct.
Fix these one at a time Mike. Fix it, test to make sure its a good fix, then go to the next problem or you'll pull your hair out!
Get batteries and alternator straight first, then get sync corrected, then high pressure oil system then FICM. Once that happens, truck should run.
Slow is fast, take your time, do it correctly and you won't need to repeat or trouble shoot something you half way fixed.
UPDATE - Charged the batts all night. initially 12.4V key off. The key on drops to 11.5V then after three tries dropped to 8.75 (Also learned all acronyms for communication purposes)
8.75v is not good, they are definitely not in good shape. Fully charged, in good condition should be 12.6-12.7v. @12.4 you got around a 50% capacity, they need replaced.
on - FLM is 48V - cranking stays 48V
Key on - FLP is 11.5 - cranking drops to 9.75 once as low as 8.75
8.75 for just a few seconds is bad for the logic side of the FICM, it needs checked. Fix the batteries and alternator before you fix this or it will eat the next one as well!
Key on 0 Sync - jumped with a spudder the first attempt to 1 then back to 0 and staying there.
You need both cam and crank to be a 1 before FICM can be a 1
Key on - ICP 2 - cranking jumped up to 1200-1700 range
This is good
Key on - IPR 14.5 - cranking 74-78%
This is good as well
Here are my thoughts- Batteries first- recheck operations and parameters.
Take the batteries and alternator to be checked, replace them.
If FLP stays low check FICM wires and or replace.
Nothing really for you to check, it needs to get repaired/replaced.
If Voltage corrects and still no SYNC go after the cam sensor wiring first, then sensor.
Go after this first
If still no sync do the same to the Crank sensor.
Go after this second
If finally get sync and still no start - bubble test.
If it starts make sure the alternator is putting out no less than 13.3V when running.
It is not throwing any codes. It did have a P2285 ICP circuit low in memory bank and cleared it over the weekend. I assumed it was from me disconnecting the connector on the pass side valve cover.
And then you cranked the truck and caused the code to be set.
I am starting to think that is wrong. What is that sensor for - Fuel or oil pressure?
That is where it's at- thoughts, comments or comedic interjection are all welcome.
Cheers, Mike
8.75v is not good, they are definitely not in good shape. Fully charged, in good condition should be 12.6-12.7v. @12.4 you got around a 50% capacity, they need replaced.
on - FLM is 48V - cranking stays 48V
Key on - FLP is 11.5 - cranking drops to 9.75 once as low as 8.75
8.75 for just a few seconds is bad for the logic side of the FICM, it needs checked. Fix the batteries and alternator before you fix this or it will eat the next one as well!
Key on 0 Sync - jumped with a spudder the first attempt to 1 then back to 0 and staying there.
You need both cam and crank to be a 1 before FICM can be a 1
Key on - ICP 2 - cranking jumped up to 1200-1700 range
This is good
Key on - IPR 14.5 - cranking 74-78%
This is good as well
Here are my thoughts- Batteries first- recheck operations and parameters.
Take the batteries and alternator to be checked, replace them.
If FLP stays low check FICM wires and or replace.
Nothing really for you to check, it needs to get repaired/replaced.
If Voltage corrects and still no SYNC go after the cam sensor wiring first, then sensor.
Go after this first
If still no sync do the same to the Crank sensor.
Go after this second
If finally get sync and still no start - bubble test.
If it starts make sure the alternator is putting out no less than 13.3V when running.
It is not throwing any codes. It did have a P2285 ICP circuit low in memory bank and cleared it over the weekend. I assumed it was from me disconnecting the connector on the pass side valve cover.
And then you cranked the truck and caused the code to be set.
I am starting to think that is wrong. What is that sensor for - Fuel or oil pressure?
That is where it's at- thoughts, comments or comedic interjection are all welcome.
Cheers, Mike
Fix these one at a time Mike. Fix it, test to make sure its a good fix, then go to the next problem or you'll pull your hair out!
Get batteries and alternator straight first, then get sync corrected, then high pressure oil system then FICM. Once that happens, truck should run.
Slow is fast, take your time, do it correctly and you won't need to repeat or trouble shoot something you half way fixed.
Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,803
Likes: 4
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Ford Super Duty: 5 Things Owners LOVE, 5 Things They LOATHE!
Joe Kucinski
Every 2026 Ford Truck Engine RANKED from WORST to FIRST!
Michael S. Palmer
The Best F-150 Deal of Every Trim Level (XL through Raptor)
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
My replies are in red
Program FPW (fuel pulse width) into the scan gauge to see is its commanding fuel) so you can see it asking for fuel once you get sync correct.
Fix these one at a time Mike. Fix it, test to make sure its a good fix, then go to the next problem or you'll pull your hair out!
Get batteries and alternator straight first, then get sync corrected, then high pressure oil system then FICM. Once that happens, truck should run.
Slow is fast, take your time, do it correctly and you won't need to repeat or trouble shoot something you half way fixed.
Program FPW (fuel pulse width) into the scan gauge to see is its commanding fuel) so you can see it asking for fuel once you get sync correct.
Fix these one at a time Mike. Fix it, test to make sure its a good fix, then go to the next problem or you'll pull your hair out!
Get batteries and alternator straight first, then get sync corrected, then high pressure oil system then FICM. Once that happens, truck should run.
Slow is fast, take your time, do it correctly and you won't need to repeat or trouble shoot something you half way fixed.
UPDATE - convinced using video of the scan gauge live that the 2 month old batteries needed to be replaced under warranty. They did for free.
Alternator I am not convinced is good so to circumvent it during troubleshooting I've bridged the truck to my running car for testing so the voltage stays solid and I do not toast the two new batteries. in this config it is 13.3V at key on drops to 12.4 then 10.2V then I stop to keep the FICM from dropping below 10V. Through this exercise when VLT during cranking drops below 9V the FLP drops below also. So no letting that happen.
So far the truck is back up to where it spudders but no start. The original issue.
Key on - FLM is 48V - cranking stays 48V
Key on - FLP is 11.5 - cranking drops t0 10.4 then 10.0 solid
Key on 0 Sync - jumped with a spudder the first attempt to 1 stays synced
Key on - ICP 2 - cranking jumped up to 1200-1700 range
Key on - IPR 14.5 - cranking 74-78% after sync drops to 40.2 and stays.
Looking into FPW but my downloads do not have the codes to program... going to the net. If I cannot find it I'll reach out here since it is a lot to type.
Next ..... ? FICM is on my radar. If the alt is my original issue it may have killed Batts then I killed FICM trying to start...... Pick and Pull has a new addition 2009. May run down there to grab what I can. Anyone need some Parts?
Cheers, Mike
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,055
Likes: 235
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
UPDATED SYNC CODES FOR SGII
FICM SYNC= 07E02209CD 0462050906CD 3601 000100010000 FICM Sync (0=No, 1=Yes)
CMP/CKP SYNC= 07E02209CD 0462050906CD 3701 000100010000 Camshaft & Crankshaft in sync (1 = in sync, 0 = not in sync)
FPW Fuel Injector Pulse Width (
TXD: 07E0221410
RXF: 046205140610
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000800010000
NAM: FPW
V-REF
TXD=07E0221155
RXF=046245110655
RXD=3010
MTH=006433330000
Barometric Pressure (PSI)
TXD: 07E0221442
RXF: 046285140642
RXD: 3010
MTH: 001D00500000
NAM: BAR
Exhaust Back Pressure
TXD: 07E0221445
RXF: 046285140645
RXD: 3010
MTH: 001D00500000
NAM: EBP
KO=103 (15) LI=110 (16) HI=110 (16) OR=55 - 607 (8 -88) kPA (PSI)
BOOST (BST)
TXD= 07E0221440
RXF= 046285140640
RXD= 3010
MTH= 01220320****
NAME=Boost (PSI).
In order to get the proper boost value enter the MAP XGauge. Get a reading
from it with the key in the on position but the engine off. Based on the reading change
the last 4 digits of the MTH value that corresponds to your reading in the table to the
right.
12.6 - - FF82
12.5 - - FF83
12.4 - - FF84
12.3 - - FF85
12.2 - - FF86
12.1 - - FF87
12.0 - - FF88
11.9 - - FF89
11.8 - - FF8A
14.0 -- FF74
14.1 -- FF73
14.2 -- FF72
14.3 -- FF71
14.4 -- FF70
14.5 -- FF6F
14.6 -- FF6E
14.7 -- FF6D
14.8 -- FF6C
14.9 -- FF6B
15.0 -- FF6A
FICM Logic Power (Volts) (Should be 12 volts)
TXD: 07E02209CF
RXF: 0462450906CF
RXD: 3010
MTH: 006401000000
NAM: FLP
KO=12.0 LI=13.5 HI=13.5 OR=10.5-15.5
FICM Main Power (Volts) (Should be 47-48) Your FMP should never dip below 45. If it does, your FICM is toast and needs repaired or replaced.
TXD: 07E02209D0
RXF: 0462450906D0
RXD: 3010
MTH: 006401000000
NAM: FMP
KO=47 LI=47.5 HI=47.5 OR=40-52 (yes, that is what it says from Ford)
FICM Vehicle Power (Volts) (Should be 12 Volts, should not drop below 10.25 for more than 60 seconds, or 9.0 for 4 seconds. TSB 09-24-03)
TXD: 07E02209CE
RXF: 0462450906CE
RXD: 3010
MTH: 006401000000
NAM: FVP
KO=12.0 LI=14.0 HI=14.0 OR=10.5-15.5
Inj. Control Press. (ICP / HPOP)
TXD: 07E0221446
RXF: 046205140646
RXD: 3010
MTH: 003900640000
NAM: ICP
KO=0 LI=625.5 HI=1400-1450 OR=0-4045
ICP Voltage (Volts)
TXD: 07E02216AD
RXF: 0462451606AD
RXD: 3010
MTH: 004827100000
NAM: ICV
KO=0.2 LI=1.0 HI=1.8 OR=.15-4.7 Volts
IPR Duty Cycle
TXD: 07E0221434
RXF: 046285140634
RXD: 3008
MTH: 0DCA03E8000A
NAM: IPR %
KO=14.84 LI=24 HI=40.60 OR=0-50 %
MAP and Volts should already be in the gauge.
MAP Voltage (Volts)
TXD: 07E0220900
RXF: 046205090600
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000104000000
NAM: MPV
Note: This one seems a bit odd, but try it out and let me know if you need finer resolution. This one will go by whole numbers, but the range is something like +/- 32 Volts which seems weird for a sensor – they’re usually 0-5 volts
EP Volts (Volts)
TXD: 07E02216AE
RXF: 0462451606AE
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000100800000
NAM: EPV
Note: This one may have weird readings if the values get to high, let me know.
Glow Plug Coil Time (Seconds)
TXD: 07E0221450
RXF: 046205140650
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000100080000
NAM: GPT
Glow Plug Light On
TXD: 07E0221667
RXF: 046225160667
RXD: 3201
MTH: 000100010000
NAM: GPL
Glow Plug Lamp On Time (Seconds)
TXD: 07E0221451
RXF: 046205140651
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000100080000
NAM: GPT
MAF Voltage (volts)
TXD: 07E0221177
RXF: 046245110677
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000100250000
NAM: MFV
FICM SYNC= 07E02209CD 0462050906CD 3601 000100010000 FICM Sync (0=No, 1=Yes)
CMP/CKP SYNC= 07E02209CD 0462050906CD 3701 000100010000 Camshaft & Crankshaft in sync (1 = in sync, 0 = not in sync)
FPW Fuel Injector Pulse Width (
TXD: 07E0221410
RXF: 046205140610
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000800010000
NAM: FPW
V-REF
TXD=07E0221155
RXF=046245110655
RXD=3010
MTH=006433330000
Barometric Pressure (PSI)
TXD: 07E0221442
RXF: 046285140642
RXD: 3010
MTH: 001D00500000
NAM: BAR
Exhaust Back Pressure
TXD: 07E0221445
RXF: 046285140645
RXD: 3010
MTH: 001D00500000
NAM: EBP
KO=103 (15) LI=110 (16) HI=110 (16) OR=55 - 607 (8 -88) kPA (PSI)
BOOST (BST)
TXD= 07E0221440
RXF= 046285140640
RXD= 3010
MTH= 01220320****
NAME=Boost (PSI).
In order to get the proper boost value enter the MAP XGauge. Get a reading
from it with the key in the on position but the engine off. Based on the reading change
the last 4 digits of the MTH value that corresponds to your reading in the table to the
right.
12.6 - - FF82
12.5 - - FF83
12.4 - - FF84
12.3 - - FF85
12.2 - - FF86
12.1 - - FF87
12.0 - - FF88
11.9 - - FF89
11.8 - - FF8A
14.0 -- FF74
14.1 -- FF73
14.2 -- FF72
14.3 -- FF71
14.4 -- FF70
14.5 -- FF6F
14.6 -- FF6E
14.7 -- FF6D
14.8 -- FF6C
14.9 -- FF6B
15.0 -- FF6A
FICM Logic Power (Volts) (Should be 12 volts)
TXD: 07E02209CF
RXF: 0462450906CF
RXD: 3010
MTH: 006401000000
NAM: FLP
KO=12.0 LI=13.5 HI=13.5 OR=10.5-15.5
FICM Main Power (Volts) (Should be 47-48) Your FMP should never dip below 45. If it does, your FICM is toast and needs repaired or replaced.
TXD: 07E02209D0
RXF: 0462450906D0
RXD: 3010
MTH: 006401000000
NAM: FMP
KO=47 LI=47.5 HI=47.5 OR=40-52 (yes, that is what it says from Ford)
FICM Vehicle Power (Volts) (Should be 12 Volts, should not drop below 10.25 for more than 60 seconds, or 9.0 for 4 seconds. TSB 09-24-03)
TXD: 07E02209CE
RXF: 0462450906CE
RXD: 3010
MTH: 006401000000
NAM: FVP
KO=12.0 LI=14.0 HI=14.0 OR=10.5-15.5
Inj. Control Press. (ICP / HPOP)
TXD: 07E0221446
RXF: 046205140646
RXD: 3010
MTH: 003900640000
NAM: ICP
KO=0 LI=625.5 HI=1400-1450 OR=0-4045
ICP Voltage (Volts)
TXD: 07E02216AD
RXF: 0462451606AD
RXD: 3010
MTH: 004827100000
NAM: ICV
KO=0.2 LI=1.0 HI=1.8 OR=.15-4.7 Volts
IPR Duty Cycle
TXD: 07E0221434
RXF: 046285140634
RXD: 3008
MTH: 0DCA03E8000A
NAM: IPR %
KO=14.84 LI=24 HI=40.60 OR=0-50 %
MAP and Volts should already be in the gauge.
MAP Voltage (Volts)
TXD: 07E0220900
RXF: 046205090600
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000104000000
NAM: MPV
Note: This one seems a bit odd, but try it out and let me know if you need finer resolution. This one will go by whole numbers, but the range is something like +/- 32 Volts which seems weird for a sensor – they’re usually 0-5 volts
EP Volts (Volts)
TXD: 07E02216AE
RXF: 0462451606AE
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000100800000
NAM: EPV
Note: This one may have weird readings if the values get to high, let me know.
Glow Plug Coil Time (Seconds)
TXD: 07E0221450
RXF: 046205140650
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000100080000
NAM: GPT
Glow Plug Light On
TXD: 07E0221667
RXF: 046225160667
RXD: 3201
MTH: 000100010000
NAM: GPL
Glow Plug Lamp On Time (Seconds)
TXD: 07E0221451
RXF: 046205140651
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000100080000
NAM: GPT
MAF Voltage (volts)
TXD: 07E0221177
RXF: 046245110677
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000100250000
NAM: MFV
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,055
Likes: 235
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
what DTC was it
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
HOLY S#$% Blades - thank you for the codes and I hope it was a cut and paste and not a type all night thing.
DTC - (not sure what that stands for but I think it's the sensor correct) It was the one on the passenger side valve cover.
The Alternator dissconnect is a great idea BTW.
Cheers, Mike - tinkering later tonight some more.
DTC - (not sure what that stands for but I think it's the sensor correct) It was the one on the passenger side valve cover.
The Alternator dissconnect is a great idea BTW.
Cheers, Mike - tinkering later tonight some more.