Moisture issues

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Old 08-11-2016 | 03:59 PM
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Moisture issues

So we are camping in North Carolina. Been here about a week and have damage on the wall between the bathroom and living room. Figured out it's due to moisture and the cause is the wall is open to the basement on the back side. It's causing condensation big time all around the walls exposed to the open space. I can't believe that Forest River didn't think that through. I'm running 3 A/C units, and a dehumidifier. Not my first rodeo here. Never had this problem in any other unit. I'm now blowing cool air into the basement to try and stop further damage but that lessens cooling ability of the camper.

I pulled the service panel for the bathroom faucet, the inside of the walls were wet there to. I'm so pissed with this happening. I'm out of warranty and basically all of the interior walls need to be replaced because of this. The vanity in the bathroom is soaking inside it from the same thing.

I insulated up the basement a bunch to try and help it, but still. Between the floor separating from the slide, and now the exterior wall of the slide separating, and a few other major issues I'm becoming very unhappy with a $50,000 purchase.
 
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Old 08-11-2016 | 07:26 PM
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David,

Read your post. Can't figure out why this one. These things are so cookie cutter in terms of construction. Frustrating as the devil I am sure and really puzzling. I just haven't seen that before. I expect to see condensation when warm air hits a cold surface, so warm air is coming up from the basement and hitting back of the wall. How weird is that?

Steve
 
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Old 08-11-2016 | 07:53 PM
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It is, and I can't understand. But all the paneling on the wall facing the living area is open to the basement. Now, I have major buckling on the walls...
 
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Old 08-11-2016 | 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by dlibson
It is, and I can't understand. But all the paneling on the wall facing the living area is open to the basement. Now, I have major buckling on the walls...
Here is a thought, perhaps useless, but I am trying to figure out how to get rid of the moisture as the only time I have ever seen this happen was with a motor home where it was sealed to tightly and moisture condensed on the ceiling. Since the walls, it sounds like they are shot, what would happen if you neatly cut an return air grill in the wall so the air would be drawn out and up into the ACs so it condensed on the evaporator grill on the air conditioner and drained outside. Just an idea and I don't know if it would help, but don't see how it can make thinks worse.

Steve
 
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Old 08-11-2016 | 08:18 PM
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We were talking about doing something like that. Since we are here permanently now, we have to figure something out. We aren't in the camper permanently, but until we close in our house. Than we will have to fix it. So when we do that I thought about doing a return vent plus some better work on the basement to seal it up. Maybe even a small 12 volt fan blowing into there as well to circulate air.

That or trade it in. LOL
 
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Old 08-12-2016 | 05:40 AM
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On my unit, I have an opening by the furnace that leads to the basement area. Not actually the area where you store things but in the area that contains the water pump, furnace and hot water heater and items.


It looks just like a return would look at your home.
You can see it just to the left of the fireplace
 
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Old 08-27-2016 | 09:29 AM
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Sorry to read this Dave...

If you can get it dried out, you can fix delamination with West Systems Epoxy resin, but you have to be able to clamp it - or run a screw all the way through the wall with a large piece of plywood on both sides to draw them together.. If you can do this with the screw passing through a stripe on the outside, it would be relatively easy to fill in and hide the hole after the clamping force is no longer needed..
The West Systems epoxy resin is not cheap, but it also does not smell (at all really) and you can be out of there in 24 hours or less..
I am looking at fixing the delamination in one of my walls on the Ragen Stryker this way..
 
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Old 08-27-2016 | 10:01 AM
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I would contact the manufacturer and see if there IS any warrantee help with this problem.
 
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Old 08-27-2016 | 12:20 PM
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I worked with that epoxy system twice, the first and last time were the same one. If you go this route, you really have to focus on first getting the epoxy into place (not as easy as it looks in the instructions and clamping the entire area is crucial. Simply pouring the epoxy into place and drawing in the center of the delam will not work. It will hold in the center, but still be out around the center.

If you are working in an area that is simple to clamp, it is more doable, but still not easy. The epoxy also will not clean up off any place you accidentally get it if it has any time to set up.

Steve
 
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Old 08-27-2016 | 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by RV_Tech
I worked with that epoxy system twice, the first and last time were the same one. If you go this route, you really have to focus on first getting the epoxy into place (not as easy as it looks in the instructions and clamping the entire area is crucial. Simply pouring the epoxy into place and drawing in the center of the delam will not work. It will hold in the center, but still be out around the center.

If you are working in an area that is simple to clamp, it is more doable, but still not easy. The epoxy also will not clean up off any place you accidentally get it if it has any time to set up.

Steve
Once again since my iPad and this forum software hate each other...

I did not mean to make it sound easy. I have used many gallons of West System Epoxy Resin over the years and have never been disappointed. Most of my work has been fiberglass, kevlar and carbon fiber - rather than rebonding delaminated walls. If you have an area where you do not want the resin to stick, you can use a coating of polymer wax or other spray coating - I have even heard of people using cooking spray. Once the resin is cured, it will generally release easily.
To quite an overused but true saying - Try a test area first.

There are a number of good videos online that show various practices for getting the mixed epoxy resin into place. You generally have about 4 hours of working time to get the epoxy where it needs to be - then clamp and wait 24 hours.

Preparation and execution are key -
Have the work area clean and dry - all your equipment laid out in the order it will be used. Plan and rehearse if you need to. Helpers are always good to have around to offer that third hand etc.

West Systems is virtually smell free and I am not aware of any inherent dangers in using it. You should, however, have good ventilation, etc.

The pictures below are some of my projects using this stuff - admittedly not repairing a delaminated wall, but the concepts are very similar..

 
  #11  
Old 08-27-2016 | 03:41 PM
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Effing iPad.... Grrrr....
 
  #12  
Old 08-27-2016 | 03:46 PM
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It is getting the expoxy into place that is tough along with figuring a way to clamp it. I am sure it will do the job, provided you overcome these two issues.

Steve
 
  #13  
Old 08-27-2016 | 04:50 PM
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I don't have any outside wall problens fortunately. Only the one inside wall. It's not a terrible thing, just disappointing. After visiting the camper show down here, it's a common thing and they try to sell stuff made for it.
 
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Old 08-28-2016 | 08:13 AM
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That's good news Dave.. Will the mfgr step up to help in your case?
 
  #15  
Old 08-28-2016 | 08:35 AM
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I think they will. I've spoke with them, and will let them see it one we are in our house.
 
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