Moisture issues
#1
Moisture issues
So we are camping in North Carolina. Been here about a week and have damage on the wall between the bathroom and living room. Figured out it's due to moisture and the cause is the wall is open to the basement on the back side. It's causing condensation big time all around the walls exposed to the open space. I can't believe that Forest River didn't think that through. I'm running 3 A/C units, and a dehumidifier. Not my first rodeo here. Never had this problem in any other unit. I'm now blowing cool air into the basement to try and stop further damage but that lessens cooling ability of the camper.
I pulled the service panel for the bathroom faucet, the inside of the walls were wet there to. I'm so pissed with this happening. I'm out of warranty and basically all of the interior walls need to be replaced because of this. The vanity in the bathroom is soaking inside it from the same thing.
I insulated up the basement a bunch to try and help it, but still. Between the floor separating from the slide, and now the exterior wall of the slide separating, and a few other major issues I'm becoming very unhappy with a $50,000 purchase.
I pulled the service panel for the bathroom faucet, the inside of the walls were wet there to. I'm so pissed with this happening. I'm out of warranty and basically all of the interior walls need to be replaced because of this. The vanity in the bathroom is soaking inside it from the same thing.
I insulated up the basement a bunch to try and help it, but still. Between the floor separating from the slide, and now the exterior wall of the slide separating, and a few other major issues I'm becoming very unhappy with a $50,000 purchase.
#2
David,
Read your post. Can't figure out why this one. These things are so cookie cutter in terms of construction. Frustrating as the devil I am sure and really puzzling. I just haven't seen that before. I expect to see condensation when warm air hits a cold surface, so warm air is coming up from the basement and hitting back of the wall. How weird is that?
Steve
Read your post. Can't figure out why this one. These things are so cookie cutter in terms of construction. Frustrating as the devil I am sure and really puzzling. I just haven't seen that before. I expect to see condensation when warm air hits a cold surface, so warm air is coming up from the basement and hitting back of the wall. How weird is that?
Steve
#4
Steve
#5
We were talking about doing something like that. Since we are here permanently now, we have to figure something out. We aren't in the camper permanently, but until we close in our house. Than we will have to fix it. So when we do that I thought about doing a return vent plus some better work on the basement to seal it up. Maybe even a small 12 volt fan blowing into there as well to circulate air.
That or trade it in. LOL
That or trade it in. LOL
#6
On my unit, I have an opening by the furnace that leads to the basement area. Not actually the area where you store things but in the area that contains the water pump, furnace and hot water heater and items.
It looks just like a return would look at your home.
You can see it just to the left of the fireplace
#7
Sorry to read this Dave...
If you can get it dried out, you can fix delamination with West Systems Epoxy resin, but you have to be able to clamp it - or run a screw all the way through the wall with a large piece of plywood on both sides to draw them together.. If you can do this with the screw passing through a stripe on the outside, it would be relatively easy to fill in and hide the hole after the clamping force is no longer needed..
The West Systems epoxy resin is not cheap, but it also does not smell (at all really) and you can be out of there in 24 hours or less..
I am looking at fixing the delamination in one of my walls on the Ragen Stryker this way..
If you can get it dried out, you can fix delamination with West Systems Epoxy resin, but you have to be able to clamp it - or run a screw all the way through the wall with a large piece of plywood on both sides to draw them together.. If you can do this with the screw passing through a stripe on the outside, it would be relatively easy to fill in and hide the hole after the clamping force is no longer needed..
The West Systems epoxy resin is not cheap, but it also does not smell (at all really) and you can be out of there in 24 hours or less..
I am looking at fixing the delamination in one of my walls on the Ragen Stryker this way..
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#9
I worked with that epoxy system twice, the first and last time were the same one. If you go this route, you really have to focus on first getting the epoxy into place (not as easy as it looks in the instructions and clamping the entire area is crucial. Simply pouring the epoxy into place and drawing in the center of the delam will not work. It will hold in the center, but still be out around the center.
If you are working in an area that is simple to clamp, it is more doable, but still not easy. The epoxy also will not clean up off any place you accidentally get it if it has any time to set up.
Steve
If you are working in an area that is simple to clamp, it is more doable, but still not easy. The epoxy also will not clean up off any place you accidentally get it if it has any time to set up.
Steve
#10
I worked with that epoxy system twice, the first and last time were the same one. If you go this route, you really have to focus on first getting the epoxy into place (not as easy as it looks in the instructions and clamping the entire area is crucial. Simply pouring the epoxy into place and drawing in the center of the delam will not work. It will hold in the center, but still be out around the center.
If you are working in an area that is simple to clamp, it is more doable, but still not easy. The epoxy also will not clean up off any place you accidentally get it if it has any time to set up.
Steve
If you are working in an area that is simple to clamp, it is more doable, but still not easy. The epoxy also will not clean up off any place you accidentally get it if it has any time to set up.
Steve
I did not mean to make it sound easy. I have used many gallons of West System Epoxy Resin over the years and have never been disappointed. Most of my work has been fiberglass, kevlar and carbon fiber - rather than rebonding delaminated walls. If you have an area where you do not want the resin to stick, you can use a coating of polymer wax or other spray coating - I have even heard of people using cooking spray. Once the resin is cured, it will generally release easily.
To quite an overused but true saying - Try a test area first.
There are a number of good videos online that show various practices for getting the mixed epoxy resin into place. You generally have about 4 hours of working time to get the epoxy where it needs to be - then clamp and wait 24 hours.
Preparation and execution are key -
Have the work area clean and dry - all your equipment laid out in the order it will be used. Plan and rehearse if you need to. Helpers are always good to have around to offer that third hand etc.
West Systems is virtually smell free and I am not aware of any inherent dangers in using it. You should, however, have good ventilation, etc.
The pictures below are some of my projects using this stuff - admittedly not repairing a delaminated wall, but the concepts are very similar..
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