Are you using the same brand of starter everytime Jim? Are they from Autozone?

 

No Bruno,

I've tried different brands (Including Motorcraft) from different stores. Advanced, CarQuest, NAPA, Ebay, Ford Dealer.

The flywheel/ring gear is aftermarket Dorman brand for a 1994, 5 speed application.
It is what was immediately available when I discovered that my ZF clutch would not bolt to the flywheel I had for the T-19 that came in my truck.

 

Are you 100% sure the bendix gear on the starter is a match for the flexplate/ring gear? Something has to be going wrong with the combo if you are frying starters that frequently. Have you noticed exactly what is being torn up on the starter? Is it tearing up the bendix gear itself?

 

Sometimes the starter bushings are worn out to where the armature ***** sideways, sometimes the whole snout is snapped off.

Now, with the PMGR starters, the gear reduction is being broken.

The "bendix gear" looks fine in all cases...

 

Sounds like it is putting stress in a sideays application to the starter. Can you tell if it is being stressed one way or the other like left to right or up and down. It is starting to sound like it needs to be shimmed in order to get the stress off of the side it is wearing out.

 

Yes, if the gears continue to look good, both on the flywheel and the starters, then it sounds like too much mesh - pushing the starter gear away from the flywheel. Maybe Archion, who seems to know starters inside and out, would have a suggestion for one with a slightly smaller diameter gear. But, I'm guessing that they don't vary that dimension and hold everything else the same.

How hard would it be to clean an area on the ring gear and paint it and the starter gear with layout dye, install the starter, give it a spin, and then check the starter gear? Then turn the engine by hand and inspect the ring gear's teeth.

I don't remember how that gear is installed on the shaft, but if it would come off I would think it could be machined a bit. If the depth of the starter's teeth are the problem, meaning that they are hitting the bottom of the ring gear's teeth, you could even do the machining in the lathe, but you would have to round them by hand after trimming them. And, if the depth isn't enough you could help that some on a mill with either a spin indexer or rotary table. However, you would surely void the warranty on the starter. Surely there is a better way.

Glad backing off on the accelerator pump's shot helped. Given that the linkage was in the position for the biggest shot possible I thought it might. But, I usually find that neither of the extreme positions works well, so over time you may determine that the position it is in now is a bit weak.

 

Gary,

I don't think the bearings would wear or the snout would break off if there was too little mesh.
I already have a PM in to Matt.

 

Not sure what I said regarding too little mesh, but I fully agree - it has to be too much mesh. What I was trying to say is that it may be that the ring gear's teeth are hitting the bottom of the starter gear's teeth, vice versa, or both. And, knowing which might let you take a bit of material off to fix the problem.

Again, that's not the best approach since you'd have to do it again if you had to replace the starter. And, it surely voids the warranty. But, it may be the only way to solve the problem.

I hope not. I hope Matt can help.

 

Jim, can you measure the depth of the front edge of the ring gear teeth from the starter mounting face on the block plate? From what Matt has posted on the starters (Chris ought to make it a sticky) there are two different depths, your pinion should be able to engage fully, but the drive shouldn't hit the ring gear. Could you get a picture of the pinion wear pattern also, that would help decide if maybe you need the larger pinion.

 

I'm at work right now but hope to get home before dark.
I can measure and post pics then.

 

Bill - I'm just trying to understand, but wouldn't he need the smaller pinion?

 

Ok, sounds good, maybe we can figure out a solution.

 

Gary, the pinion diameter has nothing to do with depth, I am just concerned he may not be getting the correct engagement into the ring gear. Remember ever using shims on a Government Motors engine to adjust the gear mesh? They do it by mounting the starter to the block, and use the shims to set the clearance between the gears.

 

Actually, I've never had to adjust the gear mesh. Guess I've been lucky, but I've not many starter problems and even then the replacement lasted for as long as I had the vehicle.

Anyway, I'll just read the mail and not confuse the situation. But, I do agree we need some kind of sticky on starters. As you know, I'm looking at a ZF5 swap and the starter is a question in that. So, it would be helpful if someone could write up what the various dimensions are, what causes them to be different, etc.

 

I copied Matt's post from a while back and saved it.