If you have the standard F150 axle the book says you have to replace the bearing. The lighter F100 axle has the seal inboard of the bearing, but it is outboard of the bearing on the F150's. You can't get the bearing off without splitting the keeper. And, the book says you must replace the bearing if it is pulled, although I seem to remember RW saying he did pull the bearing and reused it. Might check with him about that, although I'm not sure I would want to run the risk myself.

 

Edited my last post, didn't do it soon enough! That big piece is the keeper then? My axle is the 3750 LB one!

Also confused myself by looking at the wrong bearing on the parts website haha. Glad you guys are here to help me keep my sanity. I gotta go order a new wheel bearing to go with this seal then.

 

Yep, the keeper is the big ring above the bearing in your picture. I think I explained how to get it off in the micro-analysis, but if not let me know and I'll explain here.

As for ordering, I could have gotten it from Amazon for about half the price I paid at O'Reillys.

 

Yep, Drill it, then hammer it with the chisel! Mine has the tapered bearing for the rear. I was looking at getting this bearing, but it doesn't say if it is tapered or not:
Valucraft/Wheel Bearing - Rear (V20) | 1982 Ford F150 1/2 ton P/U 4WD 6 Cylinders E 4.9L 1BL | AutoZone.com

Also, stupid question, but do they give you a new race for the bearing to put into the axle housing.

 

That looks like the bearing I put in. And, you do get the new race and keeper.

 

I'm also assuming that I'll need a slide hammer to get the old race out?

 

I used a press with a bearing remover/clamshell behind the seal to get the old bearing off the axle. You don't have to pull anything out of the axle housing as the outer race and seal slide in w/o a problem.

 

My old race is still in the axle housing!

 

Let me check that out when I get home in an hour or so. Can't right now.

 

I just ordered the bearing from the store, should be in tonight around 7. Also gotta pick up the wheel seal from them to! Hopefully the have a slide hammer I can rent!

 

It should pop out pretty easy. I used a bar with a short 90 bend on the end, stuck thru the center. Hook the 90 on the back of the race and tug. 2-3 times of doing that, alternating around the race, and it fell right out.

The V20 bearing previously mentioned, is the correct bearing for the tapered roller style. It should include a new lock ring and seal.

As Gary said, I took a little extra time while pressing off the bearing, and managed to reuse the original USA bearing.
Getting the lock ring off does require drilling or cutting into it. I used a grinder to cut into it, and it snapped in just a few seconds. A sharp cold chisle and a few blows with a hammer can also be used.

 

Hey there so I was headed to work ran truck for ten minutes shut off started it back up ran for about 15 seconds then shut off and won't restart. I replaced fuel pump ignition coil plugs and rotor and cap. I am now out of ideas and money took wire off ig coil no spark present. I'm thinking pick up in the dist any ideas more than apreciated thanks in advance

 

Hey gordsp. This thread is used mainly for what we've done on our trucks in recent days and discussion thereof. Would you mind opening a new thread on the main page or searching through the forum for similar problems? Thanks.

 

I would wait to remove the outer race until you get the new bearing. I'm thoroughly confused as the old bearings I have from rebuilding Dad's truck were such that the outer race is part of the whole bearing, meaning that the race came out with the bearing. But, the bearing in Rusty has the outer race pressed into the axle housing.

If the bearing doesn't come with a new race, you may want to reuse the one that is in there - assuming it is in good shape.

 

The AZ V20 doesn't appear to come with the seal, but does have the race and lock ring.
Most other parts houses carry the A20 or SET20 bearings, which include a seal, as well as the race and lock ring. I know the A20 I got from O'reilly had the seal, race, and lock ring. Made in china, but all pieces were there. China was why I reused the USA bearing/race.