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One question though... When cold it sits at about 70psi. When it warms up it goes down to 60. But when I come to a stop, get off the gas (in neutral) or just idling it goes down to about 40. When I rev it, it fluctuates between 40 and 60 with the rpms of the engine. If I start to move again it goes back up to 60. Is this normal?
Yes, very normal. But, that is good pressure. Dad's will show 75 psi when driving cold, which is L on the stock gauge on that truck btw, and will drop to 35 when warm - still when driving. And, RPM dependant, with idle at about 20.
I haven't done much of nothin here lately, boss man keeps changing my schedule around on me making a bit difficult to plan work for old Veronica. Maybe its because I referred to him as Colonel Sanders....
In short, all I have done to my truck is slap some walmart LEDs onto my dash so I can see my gauges at night finally. Still want to swap out the old green lights (the last one for the speedo finally died) for some nice bright white ones some day...
Took the 74 out for a short drive today. It was warm, but windy. I had forgot just how bad the wind can buffet at hiway speed, thanks to that bug deflector up front. They look good, and keep most of the bugs off the windshield, but they sure do create a lot of turbulence around the windshield and side windows, as in dancing wipers and mirrors.......
Got my bed off using a wooden gantry I fabbed in the garage. I would be a lot happier if I had planned my lifting tackle better. Not enough mechanical advantage to make it light work. I think an electric winch is in the stars. Here is a pic of the rig without the bed. Yes, I know it is dark. Sorry.
Surprisingly little rust. Now I can figure out my leaky return lines
Changed the oil today in my wife's 2001 Corolla, my old Volvo station wagon, and my F150. The Volvo is strange in that the oil filter housing is a bakelite-type permanent thing and is re-used. You only change the paper element itself.
I'm using Mobil 0W-40 in the truck with Motorcraft FL1-A filter. No leaks since switching to synthetic, I think that is an old wives tale about synthetics causing leaks.
I had installed at the last oil change one of those magnetic oil drain plugs. So I was pretty anxious to see if any metallic powder had accumulated on the magnet. None had. I think that thing is probably only good in that you can magnetically stick the drain plug to the side of the oil pan quickly upon removal to help avoid burning your hand.
I accidentally got a little oil spill on the side of the oil pan under the oil filter. So I cleaned it off really well.
I tuned the carb on the Bronco a little better today. James and I noticed the fuel spray was way too heavy and it was causing quite a bit of dribble into the throat. We backed the accelerator pump off to the lowest position and the hesitation went away mostly. It even sounded better. As well as started better. I also seperated the liquid line on the A/C to pull the orifice tube out. Luckily James had a puller just for that job. It had a lot of trash in it. The old compressor must have went to pieces. Luckily I put a new one on when I did all of the other stuff. I need to get some new A/C lines and install my new orifice tube and accumulater dryer after I back flush the system.
Have you checked the teeth on your flywheel? Kind of sounds like a mismatch or shimming problem.
No burrs or flat spots on the ring gear.
I don't know how I'd shim something that has a concentric piloting diameter.
I suppose I could grind some of the lip away, and slot the lower screw hole to bring it away from the crank centerline a little bit.
This has been an ongoing issue with this flywheel/tranny combo and I wish I knew what to do about it.