I'm open to other suggestions. As its just a matter of time until other plugs fly out. Do you have any sources.

 

This has been hashed over already in here and the general opinion (and mine) is that the plugs were either too tight or too loose. I believe it is usually caused because there are a lot of cylinders and people get distracted when changing plugs and leave one finger tight. You might get away with that on an old Chevy 350 but not here.

 

Simply put, this is FALSE information. Please stop spreading bad info.

It failed because Helicoil does not work on these applications. Helicoils just don't hold well in these Ford aluminum heads.

This is a helicoil. A coil inserted into the old plug hole, creating theads.


An insert, like Timesert, is a solid threaded bushing that mounts in the hole.


Yep, Ford dealerships have done quite a few. Do you know what was used before Lock-N-Stitch became the Ford Motor Company approved way of fixing spit plugs?

Dealerships would use a different insert, like Timesert.

Do you know why Lock-N-Stitch was chosen as the Ford approved insert?

One reason is because the inserts are aluminum, so there is very little heat variable when it comes to heating and cooling at the same rate as the aluminum heads.

Lock-N-Stitch really are excellent inserts, but if you don't have the cash for them, you can use a Timesert too.

No need. This has been covered many, many times over the past 7+ years.

Change your plugs on a cold engine and torque the plugs to 12 to 14 ft lbs of torque.

Stewart

Edit: It has come to my attention the original, accepted torque values have been changed and updated through trial and error over the past few years, so do your homework before torquing!

 

I think the problem with the Helicoil is that it's not conducive to that violent environment due to it's comparatively flimsy construction. It would be fine in a stable situation such as an engine block with a pulled thread, etc.

 

Do I have to use the Lock-N-Stitch repair kit by Full-Torque or are there others that are just as good?

 

The Timesert kit is popular with the high performance crowd on engines that see high boost and nitrous use. The insert is aluminum so it expands and contracts with the head. The tool that comes with the kit swages the last two threads and locks the insert in place to keep it from backing out. The install is a little more detailed and the kit is a little pricey at a little under $400 but IMO there are just some cases where you get what you pay for. To do it on the vehicle with head installed you'll need to deal with the shavings. Grease on the tools to hold the shavings and vaccum with a small hose is needed. A borescope to check down the plug hole for shavings is a good idea.

Some Timesert info

ModularHeadShop Articles on TimeSert Installation

ModularHeadShop Articles on TimeSert Abuse

 

Musta missed post #18 above, eh?

Or you can skip it (again, ) and just read post #21 below yours.

Stewart

 

I completely agree, Brent.

Helicoils work really well for other applications, just not this one.

I've read about many, MANY failures over on the L forums years ago, but very few insert failures. And the few insert failures that happened were usually caused by installer error, which allowed the whole bushing to be pulled out. Once they were reinstalled and reseated properly, they were fine.

Stewart

 

If I recall correctly all the heads before 2003 only had 4 threads. The heads after 2002 had 8 threads. This is the problem.

 

The line was the 03' MY for the extra threads. Some guys with 03' MY trucks have reported not having the extra threads. So I take that as Ford bled off excess casting inventory until they were gone.

Its the same deal with the 3Vs and the switch in plug/head design in the 2008 MY. At the least the part number for the 2Vs is the same, the 3Vs have two different plug designs and part numbers which can make it tough for guys with 08' MY trucks as they have to figure out which design they have before they order the correct ones.

 

Correct, but the true problem is improper installation.

The less threads makes the margin for error on the install very small. Stay within the margin and you're golden.

I've heard the same thing.

Stewart

 

Does anyone do the in car repair in Peoria AZ area?

 

I had this same problem two months ago. My husband heli-coiled the plug back in. Only problem with that is it had been done before. I had to have my head redone cost me $2,000.00 and that is not dealer price! Now mine runs worse than it did before the "repair" job. Hopefully you will have better luck than I have had, about fed up with this thing!!

 

I seen a "Kit" for GM cars at Advance Auto Parts for 59.00. A weird set up that would probably work for a while but I would not want to get a long ways from home useing it.
It looked like a Non-fouler insert and had a spark plug in the kt that had a long tube instead of a tip on the end. I suppose this insert would just cut new threads as it went in and then you screwed the plug into the insert. Not the best choice but a workable solution. These things sometimes stay in and sometimes don't. Not my way of fixing a problem such as this but a cheap way.

 

I'm not a fan of helicoil repair anywhere that a timesert can be used. I bought a used chainsaw and the bar studs stripped out soon after I bought it. Got to looking at it and they had both been helicoiled. Bought a timesert kit and have used the crap out of it ever since with no problems.

Here's where I used them on my chainsaw if anyone cares:
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/172806.htm