exactly

if you can also read IPR% with ICP that will help confirm

 

Key on engine off O ICP 14.4 IPR. .18ICV
Key on turning over 0ICP. 77.6 IPR. .18ICV
Anything else?
And thanks for the help

 

big leak or bad pump ............

 

I had no oil pressure at idle, no boost, bad oil cooler. So I pulled hpop put plug in opening on drivers side of pump, replaced oil cooler, blue spring update changed oil and fuel filters (motorcraft) rotella syn 5w-40, flushed coolant system (first thing)filled with rotella ultra elc/ distiller water, rebuilt turbo, installed rerturn tube for turbo finished yesterday drove truck around for couple hours came home started it this morn everything ok left house came back (wife forgot something ) pulled into my driveway( nose up) 10 to 15 degree slope ( I usually back in ) now no start

 

With all that work first thing I would be checking is the IPR it probably had a pluged screen and blew out

Pull IPR and check the screen replace if pushed,torn,plugged

Did you keep the job Clean and I mean spotless

 

I kept it clean. I will pull the IPR ASAP.
Thanks for the info

 

I pulled the the turbo off. If I want to get to the hpop I guess I have to remove the intake manifold? I'm thinking clogged IPR screen or leaking stc fitting. I'm gonna upgrade that red hose for the egr to the blue revised one while im in there. How can I test the if the stc fitting is bad?

 

Pulled the intake manifold off and removed the IPR valve. It's clean with one tiny hole. I can't figure out how to do the air test. What do I use for the fitting to hook my air to the HP lines.

 

Here is some pics of what I've done.
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/hCNlvehMNEMs6fFprU7O4JDWwx10X5vlFBxymiL-5o8?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-VxfKOeHk9JE/TwOsFNv-ceI/AAAAAAAAALQ/7xqYlghFqwo/s400/IMAG0286.jpg" height="239" width="400" /></a> <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/qbS4BHsnwj5c-V8K6AbmlZDWwx10X5vlFBxymiL-5o8?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-iAYNqKG7R7Y/TwOsq8YLq1I/AAAAAAAAALo/wuVo4nXrIE0/s400/IMAG0281.jpg" height="239" width="400" /></a> <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/zCsPzHWUcO43TpcvFrroQ5DWwx10X5vlFBxymiL-5o8?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-gP81ZR7Aja4/TwOtAgMkHaI/AAAAAAAAAL4/DxyWTQx0dzg/s400/IMAG0279.jpg" height="400" width="239" /></a> <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/jDczbUSiY_SmzLxnljuOv5DWwx10X5vlFBxymiL-5o8?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L2uayd9JDjc/TwOsNHojGxI/AAAAAAAAALU/4D2vfd53P7o/s400/IMAG0285.jpg" height="239" width="400" /></a>

 

Hard to say if that IPR is Toast or not
If It was Me Id get a new IPR I saw one once on here that had no damage kinda dirty screen and it was BAD

the 2003 is a PIA to air test I know there is a special fitting you need to get to do it I keep meaning to write it down and Havent so Im not much help there

Id look in the tech folder under a No Start condition Im shure Bismic has the correct fitting Noted in there He is VERY thuro in his writeups

Hang on I will try and find it

Looks like your making some progress anyway

 

the fitting size you need is in the 2nd paragraph

<TABLE style="WIDTH: 686pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=915><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 686pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 33462" width=915><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 89.25pt" height=119><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffcc00; WIDTH: 686pt; HEIGHT: 89.25pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid" class=xl66 height=119 width=915 align=left>How willing are you to remove the FICM, turbo, intake manifold, and the EGR cooler to get to the HPOP cover and HPOP itself for troubleshooting? Otherwise:

One way to diagnose for an HPOP leak without a teardown: Remove the ICP sensor --- use this hole to pressurize the HPO system with 100 psig air (05-07 the ICP is on the passenger side valve cover). You should use an M12x1.5 to a #4JIC fitting . You also need to have a way to send 12V power to the IPR, but only for 30 seconds or it will burn out. ALSO - be sure to remove the oil fill tube cap before applying shop air. This will prevent the possibility of overpressuring the crankcase.</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffcc00; WIDTH: 686pt; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid" class=xl66 height=17 width=915></TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 102pt" height=136><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffcc00; WIDTH: 686pt; HEIGHT: 102pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid" class=xl66 height=136 width=915 align=left>You should be able to remove the IPR harness without removing the turbo.

Remove the coolant reservoir and take the FICM and bracket off and remove the last intake bolt (and possibly the last valve cover bolt on the top edge) so you can get your hand back and unplug the IPR. Be VERY careful w/ the FICM connectors!

To command the valve - you can use an old ipr connector from an old harness wired to a cig. lighter plug and only keep it plugged in for 120 seconds (30 seconds is more desireable) not to damage the ipr. Try asking a tech at your local ford dealer, maybe one will be nice enough to snip one off a harness thats laying around. Red wire switched power Pin A B+; Yellow /red switched ground Pin B-.</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffcc00; WIDTH: 686pt; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid" class=xl66 height=17 width=915></TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 129.2pt; mso-height-source: userset" height=172><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffcc00; WIDTH: 686pt; HEIGHT: 129.2pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid" class=xl66 height=172 width=915 align=left>Remove the oil fill cap, remove the CCV hose that goes into the air intake from the other valve cover, take a piece of heater hose and listen in BOTH spots after applying shop air to the ICP fitting. It will take a minute to push the oil out of the oil rail before you are able to hear the air flow (note the air will flow because the IPR valve is still open). As soon as you hear the air flow, command the IPR valve to close (ONLY for 30 seconds). If you hear air coming from either one of the spots you are listening to, then it's probably a leak in one of the oil rails. If you hear air coming from BOTH sides it's probably the HPOP or STC fitting. Note - when the IPR is commanded closed, you should here a slight "POP" sound.
Also:
If IPR is at 80% while at hot idle, then you have high pressure oil leak, failed pump or a bad ipr valve.
IPR should be around 22-24% at hot idle; up to maybe 30% but that maybe a little too high.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

<TABLE style="WIDTH: 686pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=915><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 686pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 33462" width=915><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 51pt" height=68><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffcc00; WIDTH: 686pt; HEIGHT: 51pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid" class=xl66 height=68 width=915 align=left>There is a hole that is situated just above the HPOP drive gear. If air is heard/felt exiting this hole when air testing, this is normal if IPR duty cycle is not commanded to 100% because that is the exhaust passage. The way to condemn a high pressure oil pump is to air test it with the turbo oil supply tube removed from the top of the oil cooler base. If air is heard/felt from this port during air testing, the high pressure oil pump is bad. </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

 

Can I do that with the turbo off? I think I need to send air directly to the pump don't I?

 

M12x1.5 to a #4JIC fitting for all model years

 

Won't the air just leak out the opening where the turbo was?

 

You are pressurizing the high pressure oil (HPO) system. That is not connected to the turbo. The ICP sensor measures the pressure in the HPO system.

To correctly measure the HPO pressure you DO have to close the IPR valve though. Applying 12V power to it will close it (but only apply 12V power for 30 seconds to 1.5 minutes - much longer than that will burn out the IPR electronics).

I can give you more on where to apply the power (which wires and how-to) if you are interested.