Wondering if anyone has a link to a write up or post with a Step by step for swapping leaf springs. I have done a search, went through 10 pages of stuff, nothing close to what I'm looking for.

From what I have gathered so far:

• Jack up truck and place on stands. (Frame, not axle)
• Remove wheel.
• Support axle w/jack.
• remove U-bolt nuts.
• Disconnect Shock/remove.
• Remove Leaf springs.
• Reverse.

I'm sure I'm missing something or have something out of order.... thats why I'm here. I have a set of X-Code spring I want to install, and am thinking about going with a 1-2" shackle lift as well, and a new track bar.

So....anyone?

Step-by-step?

Tools + Sizees needed?

Thanks All!

 

You've got the basic idea. I've always heard new u-bolts when replacing springs or blocks so that's what I've always done. It may take a little fighting to get things into position if the axle goes a little crooked. A ratchet strap often does wonders to get things back lined up.

Are we talking front or rear springs?

 

I knew I missed something!

Front, I need the heavier springs for my plow.... plow is 850#'s and my front springs are only rated 4,200#'s if I remember correctly. Plus they are weak/sagging. Anywho, I think the 6,000# X-code springs should give it 1-2" of lift, plus obviously firm it up, and the new shackles should about level the front.

 

You'll need to remove the front bumper (and plow) to get new shackles on there. I'd look into the overall height gain from the springs and leveling kit and determine if you need a new drop pitman arm, adjustable track bar (or track bar bracket).

The Pitman arm is fun to remove. You need a good pitman arm puller, not a cheap one, and we had to trim the teeth down just a hair to get it to fit over the pitman arm. A suggestion I heard (and almost used) was to take a cut off wheel and cut through almost all of the thickness of the old pitman arm before pulling it so you could simply break it along the cut line.

Do you have all the torque specs?

 

I do not have all the torque specs. I do know you are supposed to torque everything AFTER you level it back to the ground and drive it forward/back 20' or so.

I figure the track bar is a good idea, and that way I can be prepared when I go for some blistein shocks with a 2" lift.

Eventually I would like a 4-6" lift with 35's on it.. but thats a bit off still.

 

I'd suggest you think twice then. For the money you're about to spend, you could just about get a 4" lift.

How much are you going to spend on the shackles, track bar and shocks for just a leveling kit? Ford Super Duty 4.5 inch Hanger Lift Kit - Sky's Off-road Design
Add some rear blocks and u-bolts and you've got the lift you want and you only have to do it once.

Edit: Torque specs

Torque Specifications Description Nm lb-ft
Front spring-to-axle U-bolts 133 99
Front spring-to-spring hanger nut 275 203
Front spring-to-shackle nut 250 185
Spring hanger-to-frame bolts 103 76
Spring shackle-to-frame nut 250 185
Stabilizer bar-to-front spring spacer bolts (LH side only) 55 41
Stabilizer bar-to-axle assembly bracket bolts (RH side only) 55 41
Stabilizer bar-to-link nut 109 80
Stabilizer bar link-to-bracket nut 109 80
Front shock-to-upper shock bracket nut 103 76
Front shock-to-front spring spacer nut 103 76
Jounce bumper-to-frame bolts 40 30
Shock absorber upper mounting bracket-to-frame bolts 103 76
Track bar-to-upper mounting bracket nut 550 406
Track bar-to-lower mounting bracket nut 550 406
Shackle bracket assembly-to-frame bolts 90 66
Stabilizer bar bracket-to-frame bolts 47 35
Front driveshaft-to-pinion flange bolts 102 76
Front hub and bearing-to-knuckle nuts 74 55
Tie-rod end-to-front knuckle nut 70 52
Lower ball joint nut 204 150
Upper ball joint nut 94 69

 

Thanks for the info.

I'm not sure about how much the track bar is yet, but the shackles aren't very expensive. I already have the springs, and they were only $160ish.

I'm not ready to lift it yet, as I need to figure out how to make it fit in the garage when I do... I only have a couple inches of clearance as it is... so I need to figure out the garage situation first. When i do lift it, I want an Icon lift, because they are Made in the U.S.A.... and I really don't want to risk one breaking on me. (Esp. while plowing.)

 

SECTION 204-01B: Front Suspension — 4x4 2001 F-Super Duty/Excursion/Motorhome Chassis Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Procedure revision date: 02/27/2003

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Spring —Leaf
Removal

Remove the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
Position jack stands under the axle housing.

NOTE: The following step is for the left-hand shock only.

Remove the shock.
Remove the nut and bolt.
Remove the shock from the front spring cap.

CAUTION: Never reuse U-bolts. The U-bolts are a torque-to-yield design and cannot be retightened. Failure to use a new U-bolt can result in loose or broken springs and suspension components.

Remove the U-bolts.
Remove the four nuts.
Remove the two U-bolts and the front spring spacer. Discard the U-bolts.

Disconnect the front driveshaft.
Remove the four bolts and the two straps.
Remove the driveshaft from the pinion flange.

Disconnect the spring shackle.
Remove the nut and bolt.
Position the spring shackle away from the spring.

Detach the pushpin and remove the bolt and condenser bracket.

Disconnect the spring hanger.
Remove the nut and bolt.
Using a hammer, tap the spring until the spring is free from the hanger bracket.

Remove the spring from the vehicle.

Installation

Position the spring in the vehicle.
Install the spring into the spring hanger.
Position the spring into the hanger.
Install the bolt and nut. Do not tighten the nut and bolt at this time.

Install the bracket and bolt and the pushpin.

Install the spring into the spring shackle.
Position the shackle.
Install the bolt and nut. Do not tighten the nut and bolt at this time.

NOTE: The U-bolts insert through the front spring cap on the left-hand side and through the axle assembly bracket on the right-hand side.

Install the upper front spring spacer and U-bolts.
Position the front spring spacer and the new U-bolts.
Install the four nuts. Do not tighten the nuts at this time.

NOTE: The following step is for the left-hand shock only. The right-hand shock is similar.

Install the shock, bolt and nut onto the spring cap.

NOTE: The suspension must be loaded with the weight of the vehicle before the U-bolts and the leaf spring mounting bolts can be tightened. Make sure that the locating pin is correctly aligned with the axle.

Lower the vehicle onto the jack stands until the front suspension is supporting the weight of the vehicle.
NOTE: The U-bolts must be tightened in a criss-cross sequence. This will tighten the U-bolts evenly.

Tighten the U-bolts following the sequence.

Tighten the leaf spring rear retaining bolt and nut.

Tighten the leaf spring front retaining bolt and nut.

Raise the vehicle and remove the jack stands.
Install the front driveshaft.
Position the driveshaft onto the pinion flange.
Install the two straps and the four bolts.

Install the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .

 

Well I understand the garage issue is important. The kit I linked to is made in the US as well, but that still won't help you with the garage issue. They do sell the adjustable track bar separate Ford Super Duty Adjustable Pan Hard Bar - Sky's Off-road Design

You still need to figure out about the pitman arm. If the springs raise the front a little, then you raise it some more with a leveling kit, I'm guessing you'll need a drop pitman arm as well.

 

Thank you both for the info!

F-350- I read it, and appearently missed the "Made in the USA" part. My bad.