When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I had a talk with an fse. I was told what the issue is with non oat basied coolant is.
it seems there is an issue with the nitrate in the coolant reacting with the gaskets.
Guy we can easly test for nitrates so be warned. All it is to testing is a coolant test strip. If you come up positive for nitrate and have an engine issue you may also have a bill isssue.
so if the coolant that came from the factory in the truck is reacting, people can still get charged for that? that sucks, I will tell my dad to be testing his.
no the truck came with oat based coolant. adding any type of elc , gold or green coolant is an issue. all those coolants have nitrates in them were the oat does not.
Somewhere around 13,000 to 15,000 miles you will start getting a message on your message center to "check your coolant additive". Get the proper test strip or take it in to the dealer and have them check the coolant. If your test shows that you need the additive, buy a bottle and pour it in.
Somewhere around 13,000 to 15,000 miles you will start getting a message on your message center to "check your coolant additive". Get the proper test strip or take it in to the dealer and have them check the coolant. If your test shows that you need the additive, buy a bottle and pour it in.
Painted Horse is correct, but I will add that one should be SURE the dealer knows what is supposed to be in your engine. I know mine didn't at first... used the wrong strips... if I had let them flush and refill like they wanted to do, I bet I would have gotten the wrong kind of coolant. Until I read this thread, I didn't realize what that would have actually done.
I think by now, most dealers should be up to speed. The issue I had was a few months ago... but still, it makes me nervous. I do NOT want my warranty voided
Considering the complexities of this new 6.7, are the correct test strips and additive available to the do-it-yourselfer as well as instructions on how to read the strips and what to add after your reading.
Adding coolant used to be a simple maintenance job in the garage on a Saturday afternoon, now you risk destroying your engine and voiding your warranty.
It's sounding like even the simplest of routine maintenance jobs are going to require an expensive and time consuming trip to the dealer.........
Is there a part number for the correct test strips?
This way we can walk into a dealer and say to use xxxx type of test strips only (especially if they aren't aware).
I would hope the dealers know. I dont have the part number. you can go to napa or auto zone and grap the stips. they come with there own little color chart.
I've seen a post or two already that scares me away from this.
Originally Posted by cheezit
I would hope the dealers know. I dont have the part number. you can go to napa or auto zone and grap the stips. they come with there own little color chart.
Senix mentioned NAPA a few weeks ago so this is a great second confirmation. I was also wondering how to find the color chart but now you've answered that question.
Okay...there are two systems on this truck. Treat/test them both the same way? I have 6500 miles on my truck so I'm trying to get educated before I reach the 15,000 mile mark.
So I looked at the old thread mentioned above..... Looks to me as though this issue of what/where/when & how started back in August and still no hard and fast answers.
So much for the good ol' days of droppin' by Pep Boys and pickin' up a gallon of Prestone..............
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.