if a new vehicle has a death wobble. Then you take it back and say install the parts correctly or align it. A new vehicle should not have death wobble at any speed or condition. IF it does, its broken or set up wrong. If a manufacturer aloud a vehicle with a death wobble to be delivered they would be forced to recall them. Death wobble is caused by a problem. The cure to a problem is not hiding it or painting over the real issue. Its fixing the worn or broken parts. Putting a dampner on it might help, but it will again arise as wear happens and your setting yourself up for a big crash. NO VEHICLE MANUFACTURED ON THE PLANET COMES WITH A STOCK DEATH WOBBLE. Also, the damper shocks were not invented in any way to help with death wobble. They were created for drivers who 4x4 or drive on uneven surfaces a lot. It stops the steering wheel from slamming back and forth on bumps to reduce operator fatigue and steering box wear. It makes it smoother. It was in no way invented to stop death wobble, although it may help in the short term. Also , I never said tighten anything up. I said repair worn parts. If everything is mint, your death wobble is gone.

Absolute: Your name fits:

"NO VEHICLE MANUFACTURED ON THE PLANET COMES WITH A STOCK DEATH WOBBLE."

2012 F250 still under warranty:

"I am done with Ford service on my "still under warranty" pickup when it comes to death wobble. They overhauled the front end less than 500 miles ago and it helped but has gradually gotten worse to the point I can't run it any more. Can anyone recommend a tire that has helped with this problem? Currently running stock BFG rugged trail T/A 245/75R17 and would like to stay same size and a little more aggressive. Also, I see that my recently replaced track bar shock is leaking already (no doubt, a result of the wobble) and wondering what brand replacement to buy. New to the forum and did some searching - would a dual stabilizer be a help? "

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ble-tires.html

6.7 still under warranty:

"Well, I know I've read a couple threads in regards to the death wobble but.........

I've never really experienced the "wobble" until last night.... I was driving into Chicago last night and came over a bridge, I dont rember hitting a bump or anything significant but the entire truck started shaking violently. When I say violently, I mean so bad that I lost control of the truck. This shaking lasted for about 45 seconds to the point I thought I might have a blown tire. I had to pull over on the highway to check my tires. I was going about 60 MPH when this happened."

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...th-wobble.html

6.7 just out of warranty:

"Got the death wobble? REPORT IT!
Well add another super duty to the list of those with the death wobble.
Mine has done it about 5 times now… goes into Ford Thursday. Of course it's 4,000 miles past warranty.

I've seen enough posts on here with lots of folks who have thrown money at the problem. I wonder if anyone has been killed with this situation. I'd bet there's been some wrecks.
THINK… most SD owners are not even on this forum so just imagine how many trucks are actually running around with this problem.
IMO this is unacceptable and we need to try and get Ford to focus on it and solve it.
You can report it HERE to the NHTSA. If enough of us do it maybe we'll get some action. "

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...report-it.html

From the FTE 6.7 forum:

"4450 - Literature Program 09L02: Customer Maintenance Reminder
Some owners of certain F-Super Duty 250/350 4x4 vehicles have experienced severe steering and front wheel vibrations and oscillations after traveling over a bump or dip in the road. As a result of a study with NHTSA regarding shimmy, Ford sent a Customer Maintenance Reminder letter to owners back in March of 2009. In addition, Ford agreed to send reminder letter to owners. Although there is no service action required by the dealer, customers will be informed if after setting the tire pressures on their truck to the Ford specified levels, they believe the vehicle needs additional service, to contact their local Ford dealer. Letters will be mailed starting the week of 12/09/13 and may result in increased customer service inquiries."
...
"Basically this is just Ford warning the dealers of their intention to follow through on a promise made to NHTSA 4 years ago. It's a letter campaign asking customers to contact their dealer if they feel they have death wobble."
...

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...er-a-bump.html

Dude, it isn't that hard. Just put "death wobble brand new" in the FTE search field here and educate yourself before you take such an "Absolute" position. What I found above took mere seconds. For more fun, put "death wobble brand new" into google and see what comes up for brand new Dodges. When I was chasing down my DW years ago, I found many, many, many more threads on brand new Ford and Dodge trucks with DW.

But it is up to you to do your own research because it is your integrity at stake, not mine. I have already done my research. What do you think that statement that "this is just Ford warning the dealers of their intention to follow through on a promise made to NHTSA 4 years ago." means?


Good thing my flame helmet was on with my visor down...

:-hijacked

Now we have both sides of the....discussion, let's just help him solve it.

Zwalters: Sounds good to me buddy. My specific suggestions are contained in posts #32, 43 and 45.

cpye2: Keep going buddy. You will get it fixed. Do everything you have planned. But if all else fails, relax because dual opposing gas pressurized shocks used as a steering stabilizer will cure any remaining DW.

OK, so your post confirms the new trucks have a problem. As stated any vehicle that comes out with a death wobble has a problem. Just cause they havn't solved the issue doesn't mean they aren't trying. If under warranty you are entitled to get your money back. If your warranty is done, then it must have been fine until now, so some thing wore out. Regardless. Death wobble is not stock, never has been. If it was all manufacturers would have them since its cheaper not to fix and sell a dampner. But since ford is the only sufferer of this issue, then its them that has a problem with there design or parts. If I bought a truck with any severe issue, and they said its normal, it would be back in there lot the next morning, and the competitor would get my business. Since its not all trucks, just a very small few. ITs obviously a manufacturing flaw or design. Since design hasn't changed much, its probably a flaw. Could be those new big brakes too. Although they blame it on tire pressure and tires.

I'm going to start disassembling today. One wheel at a time due to the time change. I plan on taking apart the left side down to the u-joint. I am going to verify from there that my axle isn't wobbling, the u-joints move freely, check my seals and dust covers on the axle end (since there was a slow drip). Then I am going to put the hubs on, grease the unit bearings and needle bearings. Verify there is no play in the hubs. Then I am going to check the calipers for warping, check the pads for even wear, make sure the caliper pins move with little resistance, and check the piston for rust / pits, or bad seal. If everything looks good, put it back together and service the locking hubs. I bought the 0 ring / retaining clip kit from guzzle. After that put it back on and put the wheel on. Then move to left side and repeat. How does that sound? This all can be done with minimum cost assuming the parts are still good. Only loss major loss is time, but covers a lot of scheduled maintenance. I got the purple grease for the brakes and the Ford grease for the bearings and hubs.

cpye2: Looks to me that you have solid plan because you will be learning about your new pony. Make sure you update your thread with what you find to deepen the knowledge pool. You may learn things which will help others.

Here are a couple of my recommendations others may have different suggestions:

For slide pin grease:
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...kL._SY355_.jpg
For flushing the water from condensation and other crap out of your brake system:
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...yL._SY355_.jpg
Use 200-400 emory cloth for cleaning up the slide pins if corroded. Don't cross thread your slide pins when reinstalling into the calipers!!!

For cleaning the slide pin holes:

I use that permatex on my stuff. It's excellent. Advice with it though. Don't slather it on, light coats work plenty fine, wear gloves and have a lot of paper towels or shop towels to wipe up the mess it will make. I also use a BrakeQuiet on the pad backs. No brake noise since I started doing this.

First thing l noticed, the hubs are not the factory auto locking hubs. I do not know if there was an option from the factory with manual locking Warn hubs, but that is what I have now. I took the wheel off, then took the 6 allen bolts off the hub cover and it popped off no problem. The Warn hub comonents slid right out after undoing a screw that keeps the gear from popping out and the black ring/retaining clip.

Here is where things already started getting redneck. The vacuum stubs on the hub were never capped off after hose removal. I should probably also check around around each wheel well for a loose or damaged vacuum line and check under the hood to see if it is blocked off at the vacuum pump. My AC works so I assume it is, but I at least should check the quality of the job.
I havent checked the pins on the caliper yet or the piston, but the pads should be replaced. They are very worn. They appear to be wearing evenly. The warn locking hubs appear to be in good shape and there is no play in the wheel hub. So far, so good.

Just ordered a grease fitting so I can grease through the brake sensor hole and some NAPA Ceramic pads. Went ahead and got XFR ball joints. Today I got some pullers to finish taking apart the hub assembly. Maybe Thanksgiving before I can get all this on.

Looks like I will need a few more parts and tool. That axle seal is gonna be hell.

Head's up from today:


"...I do have some good news! I had the rear radius arm bushings replaced and they were totally shot. With the new bushings in place I could tell that some slop had been removed but the death wobble was still present and even easier to set off now. Again, to re-iterate what I have found: Death wobble is much more likely to be initiated where there is ALMOST no play in the steering system rather than lots of play. That seems to be the combination that really gets it going from the smallest imperfections in the road surface. I used to have all kinds of slop and no death wobble, it is only when you nearly but not completely eliminate it that you have an issue.

So I brought it back to Boulder Offroad and they found that the tie rod ends were completely shot and I had some sway bar and shock bolts that came loose. They replaced the end links and tightened everything up and no more death wobble! I am guessing that the end links were destroyed from the death wobble itself when some of the other components were causing it. Right now she drives pretty well and I have not been able to get her to violently shake. Fingers crossed that this lasts for a while!"

Sportsmobileforum.com ? View topic - Death Wobble - Possible Resolution


cpye2: You don't have radius arm bushings (because you don't have radius arms like us coil suspension guys do) but maybe take a look at your tie rod ends?

Im sure my tie rod ends are bad. My truck has 338k on it and probably the original rods / ends. I know the nut on the drag link was loose and I torqued it and all the other nuts on the rods / sway bars. That didn't help my wobble. Like you said, probably made it worse. Possibly due to tie rod ends. I don't know if you had a chance to look at the pics I posted above. Everything looks pretty good, except the brake pads. Since I have owned the truck I have been doing the services you would expect. I'm sure the old man changed oil, but he may have never bled brakes, flushed power steering, etc... It had 3 different tires on it when I bought it. Coolant leak. AC clutch plates were off. Etc. He didn't have an answer why the AC didn't work but with $12 it was good again. Its 100+ degrees here for almost half the year. There is no excuse for that. Since I have owned it I have tried to get everything right just for my own peace of mind because I spend about an hour a day in the truck. I'll get around to the tie rod ends, bushings, and shocks once I get what im working on now back together.

Dude, 100+F 180 days/yr.? Where are you located? Phoenix? Post your general location. And there may be someone near to you who can lend a hand. This place is called the "Brotherhood" for a reason. And then, in the future if you feel you have gotten some value out of this website, put up $19 and become a member. But regardless, help others here because you are well on your way to knowing more about your rig than most. Reps to you.