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Want to buy #7 mid 80s 460 connecting rod.

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Engine - Internals

Aug 16, 2019, 02:21 AM | Replies: 7 | Views: 1460
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  • Price
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  • Location Waseca, MN, 56093, USA
  • Condition Used
  • Compatibility
Make Model Year
Ford 3/4 Ton Pickup 1982 - 1986
Description:

Mid 80s 460 connecting rod to replace the one machine shop bent when installing new pistons

Old Aug 20, 2019 | 12:20 PM
  #2  
Millam's Avatar
Millam
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From: Tucson Arizona
The shop bent a rod?
I recommend finding a new shop.
Especially when one realizes that all of the rods are the same and do NOT come numbered for position from the factory. The numbers are stamped in by a machine shop when working on the engine internals.
Your machine shop *should* know this and have told you. All that you need to do is find another rod with the correct casting number. Restamp it to match your set if you want but it really makes no difference.
 
Old Aug 21, 2019 | 01:55 AM
  #3  
Scott Brendal's Avatar
Scott Brendal
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80s 460 connecting rod...

Originally Posted by Millam
The shop bent a rod?
I recommend finding a new shop.
Especially when one realizes that all of the rods are the same and do NOT come numbered for position from the factory. The numbers are stamped in by a machine shop when working on the engine internals.
Your machine shop *should* know this and have told you. All that you need to do is find another rod with the correct casting number. Restamp it to match your set if you want but it really makes no difference.
Ok, i guess all my 460s are the deluxe rev, cause all of them came stamped for cylinder # from the factory.while they are all the same. And as long as im asking i may as well get the #7 rod...and it is very eazy to bend a rod pressing the wrist pins out and in....the machine shop was a chebby race engine shop. The deluxe 460 rods where a bit out of there scoop...
 
Old Aug 21, 2019 | 11:30 AM
  #4  
Millam's Avatar
Millam
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From: Tucson Arizona
I'm only telling you this in order to help you find a decent shop. Most Chevy engine use the same captive pin design so the shop should have been able to assemble your engine correctly. If they ****ed up one rod then I'd be damned leery of the other assemblies.

#1 You *never* try to press a pin into a rod. If someone tries to press a pin into place they'll destroy the piston. If someone is trying this it is a sure sign that they have no idea what they are doing. Even then the rod is not going to get bent in such a way as to be ruined.
#2 Ford did NOT mark the rods. If your engines had the rods stamped then they had been rebuilt. Stamping the rods is for engine specific rebuilds done by machine shops to ensure the proper reassembly of the rods and caps.
Do you really think that Ford was going to take the time and effort to make position specific rods, mark them, assemble them to mass produced pistons, and assemble them into a motor?
No. They had a guy grabbing a rod, piston, and pin, and then assembling it. Another guy installing the rings. Then another grabbing whichever assembly came down the mine and stuffing it into the engine.

I started working in Old man Anderson's machine shop in 1973. Learning to build engines. I was co-owner of Aspen Machine for several years. I've worked a couple of decades in machine shops doing every
aspect of engine work and have rebuilt thousands of rods of all makes and styles. With captive pins like the 429/460 and full floating pins like I made for my stroker 474FE.
I've rebuilt dozens of 429/460 engines and I have a 429CJ that I'll be selling soon.

Good engines but I never much cared for the bore size. The flame front can't reach the opposite side of the piston top and therefore they tend to run high on emissions. When you tear down your next 429/460 take a
good look at the carbon build-up pattern and you'll see what I mean.

There are plenty of sites with video and written information on these engines. Check out several of them and find a machine shop with a proper rod oven. Then be careful. I walked into a shop to get some work done.
I looked over and saw the rod-man pulling a red-hot Chevy rod out of the oven. Far too hot!
I left and found another shop.



Originally Posted by Scott Brendal
Ok, i guess all my 460s are the deluxe rev, cause all of them came stamped for cylinder # from the factory.while they are all the same. And as long as im asking i may as well get the #7 rod...and it is very eazy to bend a rod pressing the wrist pins out and in....the machine shop was a chebby race engine shop. The deluxe 460 rods where a bit out of there scoop...
 
Old Aug 21, 2019 | 11:54 PM
  #5  
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Scott Brendal
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80s 460 connecting rod...

Still want to buy a mid 80 to 98 460 connecting rod.yes just one with #7 cylinder stamping preferred...thanks
 
Old Aug 22, 2019 | 02:20 AM
  #6  
NumberDummy's Avatar
NumberDummy
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
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Originally Posted by Scott Brendal
Still want to buy a mid 80 to 98 460 connecting rod. yes just one with #7 cylinder stamping preferred.
No such thing!
F2TZ-6200-A (replaced D9TZ-6200-A) .. 460 Connecting Rod / Obsolete

1979 E250/350 & F150/350 with block casting number D9TE-6015-AB (external balance).

1980/97 E250/350; 1983/96 F250/350; 1988/97 F(Super Duty); 1997 F250 H/D & F350.

460 not available in F150 after 1979, not available in 1980/82 F250/350, reintroduced in 1983. There's no 1998 F250 H/D & F350, as the 1997's were carried over.
 
Old Aug 23, 2019 | 01:07 AM
  #7  
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Scott Brendal
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Originally Posted by NumberDummy
F2TZ-6200-A (replaced D9TZ-6200-A) .. 460 Connecting Rod / Obsolete

1979 E250/350 & F150/350 with block casting number D9TE-6015-AB (external balance).

1980/97 E250/350; 1983/96 F250/350; 1988/97 F(Super Duty); 1997 F250 H/D & F350.

460 not available in F150 after 1979, not available in 1980/82 F250/350, reintroduced in 1983. There's no 1998 F250 H/D & F350, as the 1997's were carried over.
Thanks number dummy, what i need is a 1986 460 connecting rod!! Salvage yards were i am in southern minn are not much help with 1986 truck parts...simple. right? One would think thats a eazy score...if i bought another whole engine i would still be a rod short .u guys are great . I wouldnt have my EFI 460 bullnose without you....its funny cause i have had two other 460s apart witch are factory.never bored.factory pistons,bearing,cam,lifters....the rods and caps are stamped ..all other engines, small ford.and big mopars were not stamped...but all that dosnt matter at the end of the day
 
Old Aug 25, 2019 | 01:48 AM
  #8  
sawmaned's Avatar
sawmaned
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 865
Likes: 2
Originally Posted by Millam
I'm only telling you this in order to help you find a decent shop. Most Chevy engine use the same captive pin design so the shop should have been able to assemble your engine correctly. If they ****ed up one rod then I'd be damned leery of the other assemblies.

#1 You *never* try to press a pin into a rod. If someone tries to press a pin into place they'll destroy the piston. If someone is trying this it is a sure sign that they have no idea what they are doing. Even then the rod is not going to get bent in such a way as to be ruined.
#2 Ford did NOT mark the rods. If your engines had the rods stamped then they had been rebuilt. Stamping the rods is for engine specific rebuilds done by machine shops to ensure the proper reassembly of the rods and caps.
Do you really think that Ford was going to take the time and effort to make position specific rods, mark them, assemble them to mass produced pistons, and assemble them into a motor?
No. They had a guy grabbing a rod, piston, and pin, and then assembling it. Another guy installing the rings. Then another grabbing whichever assembly came down the mine and stuffing it into the engine.

I started working in Old man Anderson's machine shop in 1973. Learning to build engines. I was co-owner of Aspen Machine for several years. I've worked a couple of decades in machine shops doing every
aspect of engine work and have rebuilt thousands of rods of all makes and styles. With captive pins like the 429/460 and full floating pins like I made for my stroker 474FE.
I've rebuilt dozens of 429/460 engines and I have a 429CJ that I'll be selling soon.

Good engines but I never much cared for the bore size. The flame front can't reach the opposite side of the piston top and therefore they tend to run high on emissions. When you tear down your next 429/460 take a
good look at the carbon build-up pattern and you'll see what I mean.

There are plenty of sites with video and written information on these engines. Check out several of them and find a machine shop with a proper rod oven. Then be careful. I walked into a shop to get some work done.
I looked over and saw the rod-man pulling a red-hot Chevy rod out of the oven. Far too hot!
I left and found another shop.
a man you knows his engines,i used to rebuild engines for yrs,older ones,seen a shop guy once trying to press a pin in a rod,that used bushing that should of been honed for correct size,he didnt no,lol you can figure out what happen to the piston.
 
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