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On my 77 F150, my turn signals are not working. When I first got the truck about 2 years ago, they were working, then they stopped for a while. They started back working a short time later, and have now stopped again. I've got no explanation for the times that they stopped and started.
All the lights work on both filaments. The running lights work at all four corners as do the turn/stop bulbs. The hazard flashers work fine (that's how I passed inspection the last two years!). It's just when using the turn signal switch nothing happens.
I've replaced the flasher and checked all fuses. I'm believing that the switch is probably bad, but before I go through the expense and time to replace it, I'd like to diagnose it and see if that's really the problem.
Based on what I've said, is the switch a likely culprit? Is there a good way to diagnose the switch without just replacing it? Is there a relay somewhere that could be at fault instead of the switch?
hi I just replaced my turn signal switch in my 77 after chasing down shorts and bad grounds I decided just to bite the bullet and replace it. If its not a bad ground pull the steering wheel and clean out the contacts on the switch cam, no doubt they are loaded with years of dust I used a electric parts cleaner and was able to get it working for a little while but in the end it was just too worn out. if cleaning the contacts don't work you can get a new one for 80 bucks on broncograveyard.com
The Turn signal circuit is routed through the Hazard (emergency 4-way Flasher) switch that is also in the column under the steering wheel.
The connections to the Hazard switch are pressed or riveted and after time can become intermitten. More so if you have additional lights like a trailer and draw more current.
Take the steering wheel off and apply a little pressure to where each wire connects to the hazard switch while you have the turn signal on. They should start working if this is the problem. I used a little solder and a solder gun to make the connections better. Some gentle work with a punch would also work.
You should be able to diagnose where the problem is with a simple test lite and a schematic. If you need a schematic or wire colour codes we can help out.
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