Almost made up my mind finally and looks like going with X codes in front and B codes in rear -- Just one question -> Will the rear 3.5" Tapered block still maintain a rake ? I really dont want to do all this work and then still have the truck nose high especially if I hook up a trailer to it and makes it even more pronounced...

I hate living in NYC area where there are almost 0 - ZERO places you can go to to get any real world help or advice -- it seems if I was driving a lowered japanese sports car - no problem... drive a 4wd Ex and you want to lift it roughly 3" level front and rear ( even a tad higher in the rear is fine ) and I have to drive 5 hours upstate -- lol

Thanks again guys for being the best go to place on the net for my truck and yes I have tried the search bar - but I can't find a real answer to this after spending over an hour searching... I'm not looking to mod the B's ( take apart ) nor add a leaf to the fronts like others have done. Just want to know if anyone has done a Straightforward x / b code swap on a V10 and what block they used to keep it level

 

See this link, post #8.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ront-only.html

Looks like the X codes will lift a V-10 1 1/4" more than a V code. I believe most people with V's and B's end up about an inch or so higher in the back (like mine). I think you will be level at best unloaded.

 

I am as we speak having X codes put on the front and 4" tapered blocks on the rear (using stock springs). I will report Monday on the measurements. I took the stock measurements last night and I was at 37" front and 39" rear.

 

This is the combo I used, but with a 7.3L
I added a leaf to the X in front and borrowed a leaf, did the B-mod in the rear - so I'm flat and about 4" higher. Without any leaves you should be just fine.
If you want more in the rear, the B-mod is a quick way to pop it up a little higher.
You'll enjoy the new height and ride.

 

Myblkex, Have you tried The Truck Shop in Suffolk County? Years ago I had them do some quality work on my S-10. I recently called them about some mods to my Ex and they still seemed very helpful.

 

Thanks everyone for all the input -- much appreciated

So far looks like using the X codes up front with new B codes in the rear with 3.5" tapered block will result in :

2-2.5" inches up front and with the B codes raising the rear roughly 2" ( with the new 3.5" block ) should net the truck with level to maybe a quarter inch higher rear. I guess I may install a set of airbags later on if I still neeed a little more height or dont want it slouching down when towing an open trailer.

The Truck Shop out East - I hadn't heard of them , but will be calling them to see what they have. I had tried another well known shop on the Island, but hey wanted over 2500 for a 4" lift, and just seemed a bit too steep. I'll give the Truck Shop a call and check them out - Thanks

 

Have you considered going with V's up front instead of X's to lift the front a little less? I have a set of W fronts for my V10 and I'm afraid they might be too much and I'll have to do more in the rear.

 

For what it is worth, here is my update. I had my local Ford dealership do the install this time as I do not have the resources (air tools) I had when I put V codes on my V10. Anyway, they ordered the wrong rear u-bolts so I have to go back Tuesday and get them. But, the front is all done. All I can say is WOW. The front now measures 39.5-40 from the front fender (bottom of lip) to the ground. This was a 2.5-3" lift. This measurement is with stock 265's. The mechanic had to remove the AC condensor to get the pass side front bolt out. The total price for about 4 hours of their labor? $125. I have a great local Ford dealer! Anyway, I drove it the 30 miles home and am happy to report the track bar was a non issue. It tracks straight and solid. The ride is 100% better than the factory wimp springs. Did great at speeds up to 75 mph. It just looks goofy with the rear rake. I will say the front shocks are definitely way too short. They had to put full weight on the front suspension to even get the shocks on. So, I will likely order F350 front shocks. Will report back when the rear is done. BTW, to "visualize" the amount of lift, place a floorjack under the blocker beam and raise the X until you get 39.5 from the middle of the front fender to ground. It doesnt sound like much of a rise, but you will see the dramatic difference. So, for my part, the X codes are the way to go for a Diesel X.

 

So for a 2wd Ex 6.0 should I look for the B springs for the rear? I have a truck junkyard nearby, what trucks used the B springs?

 

Air tools?? C'mon bro, use some elbow grease and hand tools!

Air tools makes it go a tad faster, but it can be done with hand tools and a couple floor jacks easy enough.

Let the mechanic know he should have removed the front bumper instead. 4 bolts and the bumper comes right off, giving easy access to the front spring eye bolt, and is much easier than removing the AC condenser.

Stewart

 

That's some great info ! Thanks!

I can't believe that price for labor - You really do have a great dealership ! I'm happy to hear you love the way it came out. The more I think about it the more now I am leaning towards the X code's up front. Since I have the v10 - my front may have an additional 1/4 to 1/2" compared to the heavier diesel. Hopefully with the B's and 3.5" block that will keep it level.

I also thought of using the Procomp 5.5" blocks in rear as a possible fix if it looks nose high... Just worried about pinion angle and maybe a little too high, but think the Procomp blocks may be an alternative to the slightly smaller 3.5" block. Or use the pro comp rear springs 22145 instead and use the stock 2.5" block.

Another idea has been that I could add air bags to the rear B's with 3.5" block and give it a slight boost up. Does anyone remember what the B's with 3.5" end up leaving the rear height ?

Post some pic's on how it looks so far if you can

 

I too am worried about pinion angle. My last X had a driveline vibration that I never solved. The good news is it did not change at all after adding the 4" rear tapered blocks. Just to be sure on this one, I took pinion angle measurements stock that way if I get vibes, I know how much to shim.This one has ZERO vibes. The only difference between them is my 01 has the factory rubber dampener on the driveshaft and my V10 did not. BTW, my dealer told me there was a 3.5 and a 4" tapered block from what he could tell. I ordered the 4" to be sure. I confirmed the part number with the ones I ordered for the V10. I hate driving it nose high. He ordered u-bolts for a non overload set up and he should have ordered the ones for the overloads. I know the X does not have them, but they are longer. Like I said before, I put new V's and 4" block on the V10. I believe the X's would have been better even for the lighter V10.

 

so you did X code in the front B in the rear with the 4" block and it sets good and level i plan on ordering my TODAY well over due lol

 

What type of vibrations are you guys getting. I had planned on measuring my angles but never could find that angle finder. I have no problems until past 80, and it's so rare that I go that fast that I don't worry about it. not sure what the cause is, the truck did it a little pre-lift too. I would describe it as a little bit of a shutter, sometimes it acts like the motor is cutting out, but it's not. the one or two times that I really needed to finish a pass and stay in it it went away at 85 - but I just figure it's the trucks way of telling me something this big doesn't need to be going that fast.
Oh, I did replace the tierods and steering dampener after the lift, that helped things out a bit too.

 

i hope my input helped in your choice, i know i love the firm controled ride of the x-codes. shes very stable at 120+ gotta love the sct tuning w/removed speed limiter.