X Code - B Code Combination
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 896
Likes: 12
From: Kenna,wv
Got the rear blocks on last night. Took about half an hour. Glad to report it no longer looks like I have a ton of sand in the rear! Anyway, the rear now measures between 40 1/2-41 from the center of the wheelwell to the ground. Again, with stock 265's. I was nervous getting on the interstate (vibes) but am very happy to report I have none! So to recap, on a stock diesel 4X4 X, I went up 2 1/2-3" in the front and 2" in the rear with nothing but X codes and 4" tapered blocks. Next up is shocks and the new DieselSite 203 degree thermostat and billet housing I just bought. Hope this info is helpful. It gets posted often about changing springs on an X and I have done it to both my V10 (V's) and my 7.3 (X's).
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 415
Likes: 1
From: Long Island - NY
Got the rear blocks on last night. Took about half an hour. Glad to report it no longer looks like I have a ton of sand in the rear! Anyway, the rear now measures between 40 1/2-41 from the center of the wheelwell to the ground. Again, with stock 265's. I was nervous getting on the interstate (vibes) but am very happy to report I have none! So to recap, on a stock diesel 4X4 X, I went up 2 1/2-3" in the front and 2" in the rear with nothing but X codes and 4" tapered blocks. Next up is shocks and the new DieselSite 203 degree thermostat and billet housing I just bought. Hope this info is helpful. It gets posted often about changing springs on an X and I have done it to both my V10 (V's) and my 7.3 (X's).
I'm assuming going to the B's then in rear of mine I should be able to get an additional 1.5" ( obviously also using the new 3.5/4" tapered block ) so that should pretty much level off the truck ( since mine is V10 and the X code will lift the front slightly higher than the diesel ).
I can't wait to order all the parts --
Post some pic's too
New User
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Just this last weekend I put in a 1.5 Superlift front leaf with an added 3/4 shim that bolts into the spring pack, I bought new ubolts for the rear and used late model Dodge p/u rear blocks that measure a little over 4 inches in place of the stock 2 inch Ex blocks it raised it right at 2.5 inches....
Last night I put on a 295-70-17 tire and a set of American Racing chrome Artillery wheels,,looks great and rides much much better......
Last night I put on a 295-70-17 tire and a set of American Racing chrome Artillery wheels,,looks great and rides much much better......
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 896
Likes: 12
From: Kenna,wv
myblkex- yes I love the look and the ride gained from the front spring change was phenomenal. It should have came this way. I kept the rear springs stock. I so not need the extra capacity of the B codes. The most I will haul is my Mustang on an open wheel car trailer. I did the same with my last v10 X and it towed just fine. The stock tires look a little like rubber bands though. I plan on either 285 or 295 General Grabber at2's. I ran 305 70's on my V10 but they were not optimum for the factory width wheel.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 415
Likes: 1
From: Long Island - NY
myblkex- yes I love the look and the ride gained from the front spring change was phenomenal. It should have came this way. I kept the rear springs stock. I so not need the extra capacity of the B codes. The most I will haul is my Mustang on an open wheel car trailer. I did the same with my last v10 X and it towed just fine. The stock tires look a little like rubber bands though. I plan on either 285 or 295 General Grabber at2's. I ran 305 70's on my V10 but they were not optimum for the factory width wheel.
I'd love to be able to keep the rear springs - but they are looking pretty shot and at this point if I'm doing all this work might as well just swap them than have to deal with them down the line in the middle of winter. In front the bump stops are already pretty chewed up and only about an inch clearance.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 896
Likes: 12
From: Kenna,wv
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Central Coast of CA
Stick with the stock thermo, it keeps your oil temps from getting too high like the 203 allows. There's been a lot of talk about guy pulling their 203 and going back to stock because of data logging on oil temps that have been done, and how the temps are too high.
I plan on pulling the 203 from my Ex and putting a stock thermo back in before this towing this summer.
Stewart
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 896
Likes: 12
From: Kenna,wv
Stewart H- that is interesting information. They claim the 203 thermostat was used in International engines up until the mid 90's or something when Ford changed the pump design. With 15 quarts of oil, will 8 degrees of extra coolant temp actually raise oil temp that much? Ditto on the billet housing though. My stocker occasionally leaks after the pump change. Pretty aggravating.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 461
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took the truck into the alignment shop yesterday to get it worked on and a tire fixed. I had them put on the drop pitman and trackbar drop while they were under it. from what I've been able to tell on one short run it seems to have taken care of my highspeed vibration. my drag link and trackbar are nice and parallel now too.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 461
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I picked up the X and B's from CL, so about $200 for all 4.
U bolts for rear from local spring shop - $40
4" blocks - CL finds -$30
new shocks - $220?
adjustable trackbar(not required) - $100
track bar drop bracket and drop pitman - CL finds - $100
the part numbers for all of them should be in the master thread on wandering.
U bolts for rear from local spring shop - $40
4" blocks - CL finds -$30
new shocks - $220?
adjustable trackbar(not required) - $100
track bar drop bracket and drop pitman - CL finds - $100
the part numbers for all of them should be in the master thread on wandering.
