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What's the trick in removing the rear brake drums on a 1968 F250? I have loosened the brake tension adjuster, and unbolted every bolt associated with the drum and hub, still no avail.
Also, can anyone tell me how the two rear-most cab bushings are removed? Best I can tell, there are six cab mounts. The front four are attached with a regular nut to the threaded bolt, but the rear two don't have nuts...just large washers with notches in them.
Finally, both of my fuel tanks are in pretty bad shape on the insides. The truck sat dormant for almost 10 years and the fuel in the tanks caused tons of rust and sludge to form inside. I have swished gallon upon gallon of gas/solvents, etc. around and gotten most of the residues, but there is still enough to taint the gasoline. Is there a way to boil/burn/clean the inside of a tank? And is there a way to coat the inside of the tank to prevent future rusting? I have heard of a product called RENUE, but it's more expensive than a new tank.
JD, Seems like a couple o months ago a F250 rear drum thread was run, and If I remember correctly, seems there is a couple of rather large nuts that have to be removed to get them off.
The cab is mounted with four mounts. The two rear go throught the cab into the frame rail, the front two have boxes on the cab and fit perches outside of the rail.
I hope that you can find some help from this.
John
66 F100s
In the still cool hours of the night, you can hear chevys rusting away.
The 61-79 F-250 has a Dana 60 rear end. The rear drum is removed together with the hub. You must unbolt the axle on the outside of the hub then remove the spindle nuts.
On my 67 and 68 removed the three screws that hold the drums to the hubs then I had to stick pry bar between the drum and backing plate and then rap the drum with hammer then it finally came loose. I don't think this highly recommended but it was the only way that I could get it loose. Also I was thinking 69 and up where the one piece drums
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