Greetings! 2000 Ranger XLT 4wd with 115k miles. I've been getting squeaking/chirping noise from my front end for a couple months now. It is most pronounced when going over bumps and sometimes when turning the steering wheel. Suspecting it has to do something with the Ball Joints I took it in to a national repair chain that offers free inspections for a look-see. They come back and tell me that everything is fine with the uppers but both lower ball joints are badly worn. They suspect that the squeaking noises are coming from the bottom or even tops (although still in good condition) they are all original joints with no zerks so I am unable to grease.

Here is the kicker, the parts estimate minus thier mark-up came in what I've researched, but they want $388.00 for labor!!! their "books" said it was a 3.8 hour job, but when I said I needed to shop around and didn't have the time to wait today they said "well, its already on the lift we could get it done in an hour or so" I asked then to be billed only 1 hour labor and he said its a "job fee" not per hour fee... is this kosher?

So got to thinking that maybe I just do it myself. I've done lots of work on this truck myself and am comfortable around tools, but obviously no Ball Joints experience. Are there any step by step tutorials out there? I am in Minnesota and the chassis is rusty. I only have a breaker bar and propane blowtorch, and a bottle of penetrating oil. Do I need an impact wrench? I understand that I will need a press to get the old ones out. what kind? I hear AutoZone or O'reilly's will loan tools. Tell me what I need ot be successful please If I dont mess with the tie-rod length will I need to do an alignment as well? Thanks in advance!!!

 

It's hard to imagine that the tie-rods won't need replacement after 115k. Hold the tie-rods and feel for clunking while an assistant wiggles the steering wheel back & forth.
You might get away without an alignment if you only replace the ball joints.

AutoZone or O'reilly's will loan tools. Just tell them you need a ball joint press when you buy the parts. You'll need to leave a full purchase price deposit, but get that back when you return the tool. You don't need an impact driver, but you better have a nice long cheater bar. And a torque wrench would be recommended, too. Buy good quality parts. Don't be tempted by POS cheap Chinese parts.

I found some good videos by doing a Google search when I did my ball joints last month, but I didn't bookmark them. That was my first time and it wasn't technically difficult (but I have air tools, torque wrench, & shop manual). In any case, a shop manual will be needed for the torque values. The 4WD presents some additional disassembly & re-torquing requirements.

 

We all start as amateur mechanics. When I heard the price for upper bj's at Meineke I too said no thanks. With loaner tools from Advance Auto Parts and research on the web I tackled it on a saturday. Things went extremely well. You remove the upper control arm from the vehicle and press the part out on the workbench. The other side was done the next saturday. About nine months later the lowers needed it. They are pressed out and in right on the truck. My experience level was probably no more than yours is now. Learned a lot and saved $600 to $800. Go for it but leave yourself lots of time.

 

it sounds to me you can do it. I changed mine on my 2wd truck. yours will be a little more difficult. here is a thread for doing the 2wd. maybe it will help get you going. I have seen a thread for doing the 4wd ut i did not bookmark it. you tube has some also. I would suggest moog parts. and you might want to do the uppers also.. i did my pads rotors and bearings while i was at it. How To: Upper Control Arm / Ball Joint Replacement (Lots of Pictures) - Ford Explorer Ranger Enthusiasts "Serious Explorations"®

 

heres the 4wd drive link i was thinking of
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...d.php?t=188225

 

another thought. I did not do this but i understand that i you put the new bj's in the freezer for a few hours before install they shrink just enough to make it easier to install