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How to check for missing teeth on the 4R100 flexplate

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Old Aug 14, 2009 | 07:03 AM
  #1  
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How to check for missing teeth on the 4R100 flexplate

I'm having a problem with my starter not engaging the flexplate. I turn the key and the starter spins every time, but I just get a "whiiiizzzzzz!!!". I think it's the starter having the issue because I get no grinding at all. Not once. Sometimes (rarely) the next turn of the key it will catch and she fires, but this russian roulette for starting doesn't work for me.

I know there is a large(ish) cover under the bottom front of the transmission, but will that let me see the flexplate when it is removed? And how do I go about inspecting the entire outer edge of the flexplate while I'm down there?
 
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Old Aug 14, 2009 | 07:26 AM
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The flywheel teeth can be seen after you pull the dust cover off.One section of it will be seen.You will have to bump the starter to see the other areas of it.May need a helper or fix you a jumper switch.
To remove the cover you will need a 10mm socket(I think) and an extension.Remove the bolts and it will come down.I have had mine off several times checking the flywheel teeth and the rear main oil leak I haveGood luck!
 
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Old Aug 14, 2009 | 08:24 AM
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Without somehow disabling the engine, this may actually cause the engine to start with you under the truck. You could pull the IDM relay to do that, but as it is, your starter doesn't seem to want to turn it, anyway.

They make a special wrench for this purpose, but it might take some real heft to use it on a diesel engine.

I'd just take a big 'ol screwdriver, or small pry bar, and manually pinch it around, one gear at a time. It's how I bring my converter plug into alignment at the bottom to drain it. It takes some time, but who said these things are "easy"?

Mark it with chalk to know when you've gone 360.

It sounds like it's the starter not throwing the pinion gear out into the flywheel, so it's most likely the starter. All it may need is some lubricant on the solenoid mechanism that does that.

Pop
 
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Old Aug 14, 2009 | 08:39 AM
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Good point Pop.I was just thinking on mine it takes a few revolutions to crank up that he could just bump it around but his may start faster.Not like an old gas where you can pull a coil and it won't start.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2009 | 09:02 AM
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Agree w/ POP ,starter bendix not moving out will give the exact sound you describe.

Also you can use a ratchet and socket to turn the crank pulley.

Next time it "wizzzzes",turn the engine manually (1/4 turn or so) and see if it grabs.
This will put a different part of the flywheel in front of the starter.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2009 | 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by 12ozd
Next time it "wizzzzes",turn the engine manually (1/4 turn or so) and see if it grabs. This will put a different part of the flywheel in front of the starter.
I've been "sort of" accomplishing this by putting the truck in Neutral, letting her drift a foot or so, and then putting her in Park. I don't have a big breaker bar and socket to actually turn the engine 1/4 turn but may need to look in to it.

By the way, this starter is only 2 months old. A warranty replacement for one originally bought back in February 2009. And I got rid of my original starter too. Kinda sucks. It's a DB Electrical stock replacement unit. I'm wondering if going up to the High Torque unit would be worth it.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2009 | 09:17 AM
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X3 for the starter. if the bendix wont go out then the starter just spins without making contact. If you were missing teeth in the flex plate it wouldn't matter how many times you cycle the key it wouldn't start unless you manually moved the flexplate around to a spot with teeth.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2009 | 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by papadelogan
I've been "sort of" accomplishing this by putting the truck in Neutral, letting her drift a foot or so, and then putting her in Park.
I don't think that will help as the engine won't turn.


I don't have a big breaker bar and socket to actually turn the engine 1/4 turn but may need to look in to it.
Sometimes you can put a socket on the alt.pulley and turn it.
(IIRC you gotta go backwards or you will loosen the belt by going against the tensioner)
 
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Old Aug 14, 2009 | 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 12ozd
I don't think that will help as the engine won't turn.
I know that at best it slightly "bumps" the engine, but I've had to do it, and it's worked... so far.



Originally Posted by 12ozd
Sometimes you can put a socket on the alt.pulley and turn it. (IIRC you gotta go backwards or you will loosen the belt by going against the tensioner)
I may have to try this as well. thanks!!
 
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Old Aug 14, 2009 | 10:53 AM
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1/2" drive Ratchet and big socket on the front crank pulley does the trick for sure. I forget what size that front nut was. 22/30mm ?

I don't think you missing teeth either. Got to be the starter.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2009 | 11:03 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by danskool
1/2" drive Ratchet and big socket on the front crank pulley does the trick for sure. I forget what size that front nut was. 22/30mm ?

I don't think you missing teeth either. Got to be the starter.
I've got close to those sizes so I'll check. Genius me, I want until the absolute hottest, nastiest part of the day to go do this. Oh well... had to apply for jobs first...

I'm 90% certain it's the starter too, but how to fix it other than replacement? Any ideas?
 
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Old Aug 14, 2009 | 01:24 PM
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Since i dont know i'll ask. What does it take/HOW would teeth on the ffex plate break? does it happen often? I would think that unless you had a stray bolt in there ???
 
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Old Aug 14, 2009 | 02:21 PM
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No broken teeth, although a few showed signs of recent grinding... or maybe just not being caught ideally...

I loosened up the mounting bolts for the starter (17mm) and pushed/twisted it so that it was a little further away from the center of the flexplate. I'm not sure that was an issue, but it's free to try!

Oh, and the inspection cover bolts take a 3/8" socket, not a 10mm - just an FYI Barry!
 
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