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installed the DP tuner (happy) car shut off randomly (not happy). my impressions
I got my tuner and overboost eliminator in the mail today with a 60T codes and 80E codes. Looks like my truck was chipped previously as the silicone on the ECU was already removed. I hooked everything up, used some duct tape, and fired up the truck.
My first impressions with the 80E were that the throttle was very touchy and I'm not sure if I like how the tranny shifts. I do like the 60T though. I'm wondering why the 80T was mapped how it is, the turbo isn't boosting from idle, so why make it so touchy? It was raining today so I couldn't get on the gas like I'd like, but I was easily able to step the rear out (trucks don't handle quite like cars do )
Anyways, I went out for sushi tonight with a buddy and had him drive the truck on the way home. He fired up the truck and turned the headlights on, immediately after he hit the lights the truck shut off. Very odd...I doubt it's a loose connection. Any ideas?
Sounds like something's loose. Check the switch connection to the wire & wire connection to the chip. And I'd re-check & clean (at least a little) the connection at the PCM.
You will get used to it when you drive somemore and then you will not be able to live without it.It sucks to have to drive in stock when you send the chip in for re-burn.
You won't get any boost from idle with any tuner or tune selection. One when you are under acceleration or pulling a load will you see your boost gauge indicate psi pressure.
If you drive like with a raw egg under go-pedal, then the 80e tune will shift rather nice. When I get a heavy foot in that tune (which is my everyday tune for my truck) it will shift funny at around 45 MPH when the TC locks up and the O/D kicks in. Those two events are a little close.
As for the touchiness of the throttle, that's just you having more power under your right foot.
He fired up the truck and turned the headlights on, immediately after he hit the lights the truck shut off. Very odd...I doubt it's a loose connection. Any ideas?
Re-route the switch cable. My thought is that you have the cable running next to some wires that are inducing some EMI into the cable.
My opinion is that the EMI is causing the chip some grief. There is no microcontroller on the chip board to switch the memory allocations on the memory chip. It is all done in the switcher and any interruption in the signal from the switcher to the chip will cause "confusion".
You won't get any boost from idle with any tuner or tune selection. One when you are under acceleration or pulling a load will you see your boost gauge indicate psi pressure.
If you drive like with a raw egg under go-pedal, then the 80e tune will shift rather nice. When I get a heavy foot in that tune (which is my everyday tune for my truck) it will shift funny at around 45 MPH when the TC locks up and the O/D kicks in. Those two events are a little close.
As for the touchiness of the throttle, that's just you having more power under your right foot.
Originally Posted by cleatus12r
Re-route the switch cable. My thought is that you have the cable running next to some wires that are inducing some EMI into the cable.
My opinion is that the EMI is causing the chip some grief. There is no microcontroller on the chip board to switch the memory allocations on the memory chip. It is all done in the switcher and any interruption in the signal from the switcher to the chip will cause "confusion".
Give a re-route a try.
I can't say it any better you both said exactly what I was going to say. The only thing that I could add is that there is a possibility that your PCM may have a flashed tune on it. IIRC the DP should over run that but not 100% certain.
Re-route the switch cable. My thought is that you have the cable running next to some wires that are inducing some EMI into the cable.
My opinion is that the EMI is causing the chip some grief. There is no microcontroller on the chip board to switch the memory allocations on the memory chip. It is all done in the switcher and any interruption in the signal from the switcher to the chip will cause "confusion".
Give a re-route a try.
Hmm, where do you have yours done? I have the cable coming out the back of the ECU, I clipped part of the plastic cradle that holds the ECU in place so the wire doesn't get bent, then the wire comes out though the left of the cradle.
You won't get any boost from idle with any tuner or tune selection. One when you are under acceleration or pulling a load will you see your boost gauge indicate psi pressure.
If you drive like with a raw egg under go-pedal, then the 80e tune will shift rather nice. When I get a heavy foot in that tune (which is my everyday tune for my truck) it will shift funny at around 45 MPH when the TC locks up and the O/D kicks in. Those two events are a little close.
As for the touchiness of the throttle, that's just you having more power under your right foot.
Yah, I was driving it very conservatively; I don't romp on the truck when I drive around town.
Well, from my experience, if the truck isn't under boost, you really can't gain much from a chip. Don't get me wrong, there is definitely more power under boost (I can see this on my boost gauge.
Hmm, where do you have yours done? I have the cable coming out the back of the ECU, I clipped part of the plastic cradle that holds the ECU in place so the wire doesn't get bent, then the wire comes out though the left of the cradle.
Of course, the switch cable has got to come out of the back of the PCM. However, try routing the switch cable away from other wires in the truck...especially high-current ones like ignition switch wires or headlight wires. Also, you might experience some problems with the switch right next to the brake controller if you have a trailer hooked up....there is A LOT of current there.
Of course, the switch cable has got to come out of the back of the PCM. However, try routing the switch cable away from other wires in the truck...especially high-current ones like ignition switch wires or headlight wires. Also, you might experience some problems with the switch right next to the brake controller if you have a trailer hooked up....there is A LOT of current there.
I'll play around with it, sounds like it's a EFI thing!
Of course, the switch cable has got to come out of the back of the PCM. However, try routing the switch cable away from other wires in the truck...especially high-current ones like ignition switch wires or headlight wires. Also, you might experience some problems with the switch right next to the brake controller if you have a trailer hooked up....there is A LOT of current there.
That's interesting you mention that. I was having a weird problem very infrequently where the truck would sputter and try to die and all the dash lights would come on. I finally was able to figure out that it only happened when I would hit the button to air up my air bags. There is a hobbs switch under the dash in between the air bag gauge-swith and the bags and it vibrates when the compressor comes on. I notcied the DP cable was resting on it and I moved it up and away from the hobbs switch and all the wiring. No problems any more.
And IIRC, Tom's truck would die when he turned on his driving lights after they did the bumper install at RRE. Not sure what came of that.
I wonder if this has to do with the HIDs I have installed, I turned the headlights off, then back on and the truck shut off. I rechecked the chip's seating and it's fine.
It very well could be. Tom's driving lights were some high dollar HIDs. His truck would die hiccup as soon as flipped them on. Screen name is nmdiesel, give him a shout.
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