gonna pull the turbo what to do

Reply Subscribe

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

Aug 13, 2009 | 03:12 PM

bigsteve1969

Thread Starter

Posting Guru

Joined: Nov 2007

Posts: 1,521

Likes: 0

From: Tupelo,Ms

gonna pull the turbo what to do

alright im gonna be pulling the turbo next week ive already got the new o rings and bolts. the oil's started leaking on the ground and the valley is holding its share of oil as well. so what else shoud i do while im in there

Aug 13, 2009 | 03:31 PM

farmb0y

Posting Guru

Joined: Feb 2004

Posts: 2,365

Likes: 0

From: IOWA

RR fuel delivery, new 38R, dual HPOPs, ....

But for real, check your up-pipes for leaks, if you some then look into bellowed up-pipes.
Check the turbo over, see how the shaft play is holding up. If you have surging, good time to put in a wicked wheel.
Maybe delete the EBPV, on the turbo and pedestal? Help elminate another possible oil leak.

And most importantly, give your engine valley a good, thorough cleaning! It'll help to detect leaks later on, and your truck will love you for it!

Aug 13, 2009 | 03:35 PM

bigsteve1969

Thread Starter

Posting Guru

Joined: Nov 2007

Posts: 1,521

Likes: 0

From: Tupelo,Ms

thinking about deleting the ebpv but dont really understand it. i was going to paint the valley would that be a good or bad idea

Aug 13, 2009 | 05:02 PM

big poppa

Post Fiend

Joined: Feb 2008

Posts: 10,977

Likes: 5

From: Lancaster, Pa.

Adam pretty much covered everything to check, you could delete the EBPV by tac welding the flap, Meggawatt did this just recently and unscrew the plunger out of the pedestal and thread the hole and put a bolt in there. ronspowerstroke painted his valley for this reason I believe, wouldn't be a bad thing.

Aug 13, 2009 | 05:31 PM

farmb0y

Posting Guru

Joined: Feb 2004

Posts: 2,365

Likes: 0

From: IOWA

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigsteve1969

thinking about deleting the ebpv but dont really understand it. i was going to paint the valley would that be a good or bad idea

Here's what I did, wasn't the way I planned it, but it worked out for the better.

Instead of welding the flapper open, I took a dremel and ground off the rivets that hold the flapper to the shaft, that way no chance of me welding it closed. When I picked it up to move it the shaft fell out, so now I have a big hold in my exhaust. If I was at the farm I would have taken the mig welder and had it plugged in no time, but at home all I have is a stick, a little hesitant to do it, but I still got the job done.

On the pedestal, pull the snap ring and take out the plunger assembly. Like Mike said, tap the hold where the actuator rod went through, and find either a bold or in my case a set screw with a little bit of thread tape and stick it in there to plug it. Put everything back together and you're set! Just be sure to clean out all the filings from tapping it before you put it together. Don't want those flowing around with the oil.

Good luck!

Aug 13, 2009 | 06:04 PM

spdmpo

Postmaster

Joined: Jan 2009

Posts: 2,544

Likes: 4

From: Suffolk, VA

I'm assuming you're planning on doing the pedestal o-rings too correct? It's be silly to be that far and not pull the pedestal and do those too.
If you are planning on a new wicked wheel or inlet housing, that's the time to do it. Adjusting the wastegate rod is easy while the turbo is out too.
I personally like my EBPV and wouldn't delete it, you might want a decel tunes one day. I'm not convinced there's a performance gain by removing it either; but if I were, I'd get a non-ebpv pedestal before I did all that plugging and welding. My two cents.

And if the boots are questionable, that's a good time to give a Clay a call for a new set.