What is this $25 performance chip I'm seeing on EBAY? I know it's a longshot but it's a lot better than the $200 I spent years ago on my Superchips Performance chip. I probably won't get one unless it's really convincing. But my 98 2.5L Automatic sure needs some help. I've still got my Superchip which I took out a couple years ago when Premium fuel began to rise too high. It's not low but it's more affordable than a year ago and I'm thinking about throwing the chip back in. I at least know it helped but it didn't do anything off the line very much. I believe I've got the automatic transmission issues worked out for awhile. I've gone through 4 4R44E's in 230,000 miles. I now have a custom built 4R44E with some light valve body modifications, a 4WD pan, and an external cooler to help out. I've also thrown away a Volant and Airraid intake kit because one of them cracked my radiator by the way it mounted. So if I do that again I'm planning on installing only a quality kit from K&N. Adding the intake kit was the biggest improvement for power. For now I just put back the OEM setup and a paper air filter. I've had a dynomax muffler and a borla muffler on before. The Borla sounded the best but now I have the cat-back system from Dynomax that works well. I even tried a Airraid throttle body spacer but it wasn't designed well because of the nipple on the throttle body hit the top of the valve cover and it didn't mount easily. Anyway I didn't feel a bit of difference with that so it made it into the trash. Ignition has always been a weak point on this Ranger and even since I've gotten a used 2.5L engine put in it still has some missing issues. I've always used Motorcraft plugs but I've tried various wire brands and the best ones were Accel even over the Motorcraft wires. So I plan on adding the Accel wires and Accel coil packs. The coil packs from Accel did fail but they outlasted the original Ford packs and Motorcraft packs. To my shock and disappointment my engine died at 227,000 miles because of a failed oil pump all while I was on vacation out of state. Even if I caught it the problem in time the engine would still have to come out. A used 2000 2.5L with 50,000 miles was put in just to get it home. So it didn't get anything changed, plugs or wires, just oil and filter. So eventhough it runs, it's stock and it needs help. After I get the intake kit and ignition straightened out. I want to throw on a chip again. Should I stick with the Superchips or go for something else? I'm not looking to race but it's a 4 cylinder automatic so you know it needs some help just getting around especially with the A/C on. And I have to have A/C here in Georgia in the summer. Even my 73 Charger with a big block 400-4BBL has a new OEM A/C system waiting to be charged once the engine is installed.

 

Save your money, they are a rip-off........Just a resistor that tells your computer your engine is running cold all the time.

 

That's what I thought. I remembered reading about it being just a resistor one time before but didn't remember the whole story. I'll stick with my Superchip. Is there any truth to using Premium 93 tearing up your valves and head? Since the engine was suppose to run on 87 but I thought the chip tricks it into running on 93. I never had any valve or head problems on my old motor but just wondering. I imagine you would have to have like 110 Octane Racing Fuel to do that much damage on a daily driver like this. But the chip did work just sucked because of Premium fuel prices. I've got the cat-back exhaust so I'm going to go with the Accel wires, Accel EDIS coil packs, K&N intake kit, and throw my Superchip back on maybe. That's the best it was ever running just the transmission always kept it from performing. It's actually not as bad a totally stock 2.5L now with the transmission being played with. But it doesn't like when you turn on the A/C but it sure is cold enough to frost up the interior good.

 

Your fear of octane comes from a misunderstanding of what octane is. The octane rating on the pump is a number that refers to the flash point of the fuel (the temperature needed to ignite the fuel) and the burn rate of the fuel. The higher the octane, the hotter it needs to be to ignite and the slower it burns. In a normal engine, higher octane is a waste of money at best, and can contribute to deposit formation because it does not burn completely in the cylinder. As compression and timing advance is increased, the need for higher octane fuels is increased, and the benefits from such fuels are realized.

If you run too high an octane fuel, the engine will not suffer any immediate damage. Over time however, the carbon deposits that can form can gum up the valves, mess with compression, further inhibit combustion, and if these deposits start to build up in the rings, cylinder scuffing can result. So over time it can cause damage.

The general rule of thumb is to use the lowest octane that doesn't cause pinging. This will result in the best performance and economy. The best option is to use the octane recommended by the manufacturer. Since you have performance mods, this is a harder thing to call. The chip can increase your timing advance, which can increase the benefits from a higher octane. The K&N however probably draws in heated air unless it has the heat shrouds. Heated air tends to contribute to detonation, so the timing advance is reduced. The catback exhaust will tend to lower head temperatures, so that can justify more advance. The Accel wires and coil tend to run hotter, and that can offset the benefits of timing advance by making the plug tips hotter and contributing to detonation. This also wears out the plugs rapidly. The original Ford parts are already high performance parts. Stock coils, wires, and plugs would be better. High output coils and wires are for high RPM race applications where you need maximum park output where stock parts would not be able to keep up. Such vehicle would also be set up to run on very high octane fuel anyway. I seriously doubt you spend your time driving on the streets with you engine pegged at redline. You have several parts that are clashing with each other, which produces mixed results. On the flip side, if your intake does have the heat shroud, that will help you out.

 

I haven't gotten the K&N filter kit yet but I've read the instructions on the website and it comes with the heat shroud. I used the Accel wires because they were the best ones I've ever had on the truck. Maybe I can just use them with the Motorcraft coil packs. I've used the Motorcraft wires several times and at about 20,000 miles into service they collect moisture eventhough I applied more silicone on the boots and terminals. And the engine would slightly miss. When I had the Accel wires on for the 60,000 mile change interval they lasted without any problems like that. So maybe I'll just put new Motorcraft everything and add the K&N kit and put my Superchip back in.