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I have a 1987 HD F250 reg cab 4x4, 351W, TTB front, 8600 GVWR, 2 inch factory rear blocks, etc...
I also have a 1988 F350 (single rear wheel), reg cab, 4x4, 7.3 Diesel, Dana 60 solid front axle, 9000 GVWR, 4 inch rear blocks, same rear axle as the F250.
The F350 is pretty much a donor, I'm gonna swap the front axles/springs and rear springs/blocks, and make my F250 an F350.
My question is about the rear springs... Should I just swap the blocks/U-bolts, or swap the whole spring assemblies? Or..... could I use the 250 springs and add the bottom flat spring from the F350 to gain another inch?
Is the height difference between F250 and F350 all made up with the 2 inch taller blocks or do the springs also contribute?
I only ask because I feel like my frontend will be level or high going from diesel to small block gas engine. I like the factory (rear slightly high) look.
The actual springs between the 250 and 350 are the same. the difference is in the overload, and the taller block. Just swap those over (using new ubolts of course) and voila! You have the 350 rear suspension.
Yes the front end will sit higher than stock. But i believe it will only level out, will not become front end high. Back in high school my buddy swapped out the 6.9L diesel in his 84 F350 for a 351W, and yes the front end rose, but not higher than the rear.
I swapped the blocks and overload springs. I also changed the rods that hold the anti-sway bar. They were 1 inch shorter on the F250. The shocks are shorter too, although I didn't swap them, I'll probably just buy new ones eventually. I left the rubber overload bumpers/brackets on the 350, too much work to get the rivets out, probably cheaper just to buy new ones.
The truck sits 2 inches higher in the rear now, looks funny, can't wait to get my D60 front swapped over. Anything to look out for? Tips? Should I swap the D60 complete with the leafs attached? Is the 7.3D gonna make the tires lean in at the top on the TTB axle?
Thanks!
I cut the heads off 8 of the rivets with a torch, managed to drive one out with a punch, the others don't want to budge, it doesn't help having the bed on the truck. Tried drilling one, too slow, way too much work...
I recently drilled out the rivets for all the rear suspension components on a 250 frame. It was a little effort on my part, but it sure didn't cost me any $$. Yes, it is easier if the bed is off so you can get a good whack on the rivet when driving it out with a punch.
Yes the diesel will make your ttb sag, but because the ttb setup does not have the diesel springs. You could get a diesel in an F250 w/ ttb, but it came with the heavier duty diesel springs.
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