Buying brake pads today.
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 11,286
Likes: 263
From: North of Greenville
NAPA supporter here, too.
I believe my last ones on the front that (12-15,000 miles) were the super HD pads used on bigger trucks, but I can't remember if they were ceramic or semi-metallic, but either way there were "advertised" to be a fairly low dusting pad that also had enough "give" to them to be resistant to pad-squeal. So far, no squeal at all and the front wheel dusting is much, much less than when I ran the stockers. I'm happy with them.
I believe my last ones on the front that (12-15,000 miles) were the super HD pads used on bigger trucks, but I can't remember if they were ceramic or semi-metallic, but either way there were "advertised" to be a fairly low dusting pad that also had enough "give" to them to be resistant to pad-squeal. So far, no squeal at all and the front wheel dusting is much, much less than when I ran the stockers. I'm happy with them.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 10,977
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From: Lancaster, Pa.
I was told that the ceramics if you have score marks that are border line, they will turn the rotors smooth at the cost of the ceramic pads. Wifes expy had scorn rotors and the ceramics cleaned them up but the pads didn't last that long, maybe 30,000. HD pads my vote from your local parts store..
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 10,977
Likes: 5
From: Lancaster, Pa.
Basically Tom, i thought i could get away putting the ceramics on some not so good rotors and the worked great for the turning part, i should have had the rotors turned to have them last longer, i get what you say.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,803
Likes: 0
From: Amarillo, TX
Buy the most expensive ones you can get. Cheap pads are crap. I got mine at Oriles, I have about 12000 miles on them with most of that towing a 8K trailer. Also look into replacing your rotors. I know that may be an expense that may not be needed but your driving an 8000lb truck and if you tow you really need a good set of brakes that you can rely on. just my $.02
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,241
Likes: 1
From: Powder Springs, East TN
My friend I feel for you on doing them on dually they are a pain in the BUTT espeically the rear brakes. Go with the NAPA brakes and if you need rotors or calipers get them there as well. I did Hawk LTS pads all the way around and my front rotors were good so I kept them. I had to buy some rotors for the rear I just went with the Advanced due to the fact that most of your braking power is in the front. Make sure you lube the caliper pins with brake caliper lube.
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Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 11,286
Likes: 263
From: North of Greenville
Great reminder, Justin. Personally, I would recommend replacing the pins altogether since they're not that expensive, and also make sure that your pin sockets are really clean inside with no rust, scabs, etc.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,686
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From: East Tn
Went with wearever gold from Advance. I got the caliper lube as sugested, but what are caliper pins? What is hard about changing rear brakes on a dually? Can't be as hard as my 78. Had to pull the axles to get the drum off.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,686
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From: East Tn
Got the brakes done today. Not shure what the caliper pins are, but I lubed the bolts that hold the calipers on. I can never seem to get the boots to go strait in with the pistons but other than that, no problems. This thing is HEAVY though. The 2 ton snap-on jack had a hard time lifting the rear end.