np 205 question
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np 205 question
I am in the process of replacing the seals in my divorced np 205. my question is on the input shaft nut holding the flange on, the 1-5/16" socket will not fit in the flange because the driveshaft ujoint is smaller then the front and rear. the socket is a 3/4" drive did anybody else have this problem?
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i just did this very same thing.
how was your bearing? mine was shot, i replaced it at the same time.
be careful, if the gear moves forward too far, it will pull out of the rear bearing. then you gotta pull the back cover off, and put all the needles back in place.
how was your bearing? mine was shot, i replaced it at the same time.
be careful, if the gear moves forward too far, it will pull out of the rear bearing. then you gotta pull the back cover off, and put all the needles back in place.
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Ha, ha, there is only one way to know that.......
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I just rebuilt/resealed my married 205, if i were you i'd remove the back cover because the gears like to slide around as you're working, i took my cover off and didn't loose a bearing, replaced and repacked the roller bearing and put it back in. Make sure you don't select the incorrect seal for the input and 2 output shafts. Although they look the same they are all different.
As far as the for the nut i didn't have that problem so sorry i can't really help you there. I get a 12 pt. socket as mentioned and try that.
As far as the for the nut i didn't have that problem so sorry i can't really help you there. I get a 12 pt. socket as mentioned and try that.
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I took mine completly apart and going to do a rebuild on it. as I go through it I am sure I will have more questions. thinking of doing the twin shift mod while everything is apart
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Post Fiend
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You are familiar with the "Twin-Stick" modification right? This only requires the modification of the range rail, and only has to be ground down a little bit. Grinding too far will result in the incorrect operation of the shuttle pin. The shuttle pin is there to prevent you from shifting the outputs into different ranges. IE one output in low range and one into high. This would destroy the case in a matter of minutes.
Here is what the rails look like:
Here is what the rails look like:
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Well actually I cut an aluminum strut brace that I found at a salvage yard. This had threaded ends so I could install some shifter *****. I cut the brace in half and installed a pivot. I then modified the old shift linkages and hardware to connect the old 203 linkage to the new levers. Once this was accomplished I then cut the linkages to length and used an end that would fit right into the slot in the 205 shift rails. I then made a hole in the the end so the original retaining pins could still be used. Once the lengths were obtained, I made a final cut and welded the pieces together.
The whole thing cost me about 20 bucks and works like a champ.
Here you can see the levers. These used to be a strut brace for a rice car. Really.
The whole thing cost me about 20 bucks and works like a champ.
Here you can see the levers. These used to be a strut brace for a rice car. Really.
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